How Does This Thing Work

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gerard
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Stove/Furnace Make: yukon dual fuel
Stove/Furnace Model: husky
Location: syracuse, ny

Post Sun. Dec. 14, 2008 9:38 am

re your barometric damper

The damper is designed so in windy conditions the extra draft caused by the wind is mitigated by the barometric door opening and allowing air in the chimney. Without that the extra draft would come up through the coals which would burn hotter and heat more than you may need at the time. If your having a draft problem adjust the barometric damper so the door stays closed. This will allow more air through the coal bed and make it burn more. If you get to a point that it's overfiring, start adjusting the damper to open more easily until you get a sweet spot and all is in equilibrium. My damper has a weight on the inside that is attached to a threaded rod. Turning it moves the weight in or out allowing the door to open or close more easily depending on the weight position. Not sure how yours works but probably something similar.

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dutch
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska Channing III
Location: UPstate NY

Post Tue. Dec. 16, 2008 11:50 am

You mention that you open the ash door vents all the way, to load
and get the fire going. Does that help the fire really get going?
If you run it like that for 10-15 mins, are you able to see the fire
start really going? If you can get that result from sliding the
vents to full open, that may be all you need to get the stove reloaded
during shake down. I don't think on my Harman that spinning my 1
dial all the way out would be enough extra draft, but your door has
vents all the way across the front which may be (in the manufacturers
opinion) sufficient to get the fire going good .

Not sure about your startup procedure, but once the hot wood fire
is going, did you start with a small amount of coal, let that get
going good, before adding any more?

Do you have a thermometer anyplace to monitor changes when
you open the vents etc?
I agree opening that lower door with the loading door open will
defeat any purpose trying to build fire/heat. Too much cold air
going up the chimney.

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oliver power
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Location: Near Dansville, NY

Post Tue. Dec. 16, 2008 9:08 pm

I like the the door flanges. Quite the safty feature.

spotcatbug
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Post Fri. Dec. 19, 2008 1:17 pm

Ashcat wrote:What about taking the ash pan door off its hinges, closing the fill door, then re-installing the ash pan door, so the positions of the retaining pieces of metal are reversed? It looks from the pictures that that may be possible. One of my rules for my family (who I occasionally enlist to make minor adjustments when I'm not home) is to NEVER open the fill door without first opening the ash pan door. The design of coalloser's (soon to change his name to coalwinner?!?) stove makes violation of this rule mandatory! Weird. I guess the manufacturer had to make a choice for the buyer between the possibility of overfiring the stove, or getting all the hair burned off the buyer's head. :shock: Not sure they made the right choice.
I was thinking it should be reversed as well. I was told to never open the load door without first opening the ash door. If it's possible to reverse it (as it seems to be from the pictures), perhaps it was assembled incorrectly to begin with? I.E., the interlock is actually designed to keep you from opening the load door without first opening the ash door and whoever put it together got it backwards.

Visit Hitzer Stoves

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Devil505
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Post Fri. Dec. 19, 2008 2:44 pm

spotcatbug wrote:the interlock is actually designed to keep you from opening the load door without first opening the ash door and whoever put it together got it backwards.
Looks to me like the ash door wouldn't seat correctly (seal) if reversed. I would definitely cut the flange off as "Training Wheels" that are not needed.

coalloser
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Joined: Fri. Dec. 12, 2008 3:43 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford

Post Sat. Dec. 20, 2008 8:43 am

Ok - had success for two days and then had to leave town thus the fire went out.

Did a couple of things: I cut the lip off of the ash door - big difference

Loaded it up to the top of fire bricks when initially got coal burning - burned nicely for about 9 hours without touching it

I have a couple of problems/questions. It think I may have a draft issue. The stove doesn't really seem to burn where I want it to (between 350 - 400 degrees) unless I have the ash door wide open. Is this common? Am I doing something wrong? How can I create an artificial draft?

Second question - I can tell that a lot of the flames (blue ladies) are going being sucked up the flu. Is this common?

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North Candlewood
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Eshland S-130
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Post Sun. Dec. 21, 2008 2:53 pm

You could have to much draft if the dancing ladies are leaving the party due to the flue! :D
But true! Sucking the heat right out reason for lower temps?

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