Coalpail.com Forum

Hi, I am new to the forum and coal stoves. I purchased a Chappee Wood Coal Stove Model 8033 and the instuctions are in french. I am planning to install this unit in my fire place. Does anyone have experience with this stove? The person I purchased the unit made it all sound very simple- the installation and firing it up. I have attached a picture of the unit. Also the unit has an internal flue damper is there any other type of damper that I need. I have read few posts about baro dampers- any suggestions?

Hello, I have one of these stoves installed in my basement fireplace. I recommend a baro for this unit because it can get carried away when using coal. The internal damper should be open for all startups and closed down when your fire is established. Check all the door gaskets and the condition of the firebrick and grates. I recommend nut coal for this stove. You will have to shake this stove vigorously as the shaker grates don't move alot.

Thank you coalvet,

What is the purpose of the BARO- how does it work and where should it be intalled on the pipe. You mentioned that the unit can runaway with coal. How does the baro work to controll the fire.

Thanks

Rooterman

Hi Rooter, a barometric damper senses the draft in the flue pipe, and once the draft exceeds the force needed to open the flapper on the baro-damper, the draft will not exceed what it takes to open the flapper.. The force needed to open the flapper is adjustable with a sliding weight..

A baro damper only functions to limit the maximum draft.. This way if the wind starts to really blow, or the temperature plummets overnight, or both, the excess draft created won't pull too much air though your fire, burning the coal to fast, and possibly overfiring your stove.. The draft will be limited by the baro-damper.

There are several topics in the forums about Barometric Dampers.. Since you are new at burning coal,, I'd recommend reading the fourm some:
about startting a fire in a hand-fired stove : How to Light a Hand Fired Coal Stove
about chimneys and Baro Dampers: Install a Barometric Damper on a Stoker Stove/Furnace?
reading about maintaining a good fire..

This will give you a good education base to start with for your first burn and first few weeks of heating with coal... you will quickly learn 'the ropes'.

Hope this helps.. Greg L

I purchased a used Chappee stove (cranberry enamel with double shaker grates). I do not have any directions as to how to burn the nut coal and any information would be appreciated. I read somewhere on line you close the damper at the top of the stove when it burns off the smoke from the wood and your coal is cooking.....Why would you do this? Would it not keep the gas from the coal burn off in your home? I am confused. Where might I find English burning instructions, please? Thanks!

Kubotafoot,

coalvet wrote:Hello, I have one of these stoves installed in my basement fireplace. I recommend a baro for this unit because it can get carried away when using coal. The internal damper should be open for all startups and closed down when your fire is established. Check all the door gaskets and the condition of the firebrick and grates. I recommend nut coal for this stove. You will have to shake this stove vigorously as the shaker grates don't move alot.

I doubt the damper is meant to completely shutoff the stove. Could you mean an internal damper as underlined in the quote above ?

I'm not familiar with such a rare stove here in the USA, but if there is such an internal damper, it is most likely for changing the pathway of the hot flue gases to help slow the gasses and extract more heat. It also causes a bit more resistance to flow so helps keep the stove from running too hot. Internal dampers that do this are nothing new.

In antique stoves they are called the "direct - indirect" damper. Sometimes, also called a "diverter". In old cook stoves and ranges they are labeled, "oven".

When that internal damper is opened for reloading fuel, the hot flue gasses go more directly from the firebox to the stove chimney collar. That allows a stronger draft to build up so that the new fuel gets burning more quickly. That stronger draft also helps prevent any chance of smoke leakage out of the stove when a loading door is opened.

When the new fuel is burning well, the damper can then be closed re-routing the flue gasses thorough the longer pathway, thus extracting more heat before the flue gasses reach the chimney.

Look inside your stove and see it there is another pathway the flue gasses can take if that internal damper is closed.

And pictures of the stove and it's insides would help us, to help you better.

Paul

Here is the stove manual.

Thanks Coalvet.

So it does look like that upper damper(shutter) is just a direct-indirect type damper.

Too bad the cutaway drawing doesn't show the flue gas pathway when the upper damper is closed.

Paul

Yes, Paul, that was the quote I saw previously. Checked out the stove and there seems to be no other area for the smoke/gas to go, but the flapper is not a hard and tight seal, so I guess I will give it a shot tonight while I watch TV and if I am alive to go to bed, I will call it a success.
These stoves are not rare in America. Tons of folks had them in the late 70's but many are with burnt out grates now. I happen to have 5 of them in different states of repair and call on them for parts for myself or friends.
Thanks!
Paula

Oh and I clicked on the manual link, but it said it was possibly a "bad" site for the computer, so I passed.

The file is just a pdf. It's safe to download!

coalvet wrote:The file is just a pdf. It's safe to download!

Same here. My antivirus programs also questioned it, but checked and cleared it when I downloaded it.

Paul

I have a Chappee 8033 with a stamped number on the back ( PB8033C865HH12 ) any idea on the age?

Thanks

My guess is late sixties, early seventies from year my friend bought his.

coalvet wrote:Hello, I have one of these stoves installed in my basement fireplace. I recommend a baro for this unit because it can get carried away when using coal. The internal damper should be open for all startups and closed down when your fire is established. Check all the door gaskets and the condition of the firebrick and grates. I recommend nut coal for this stove. You will have to shake this stove vigorously as the shaker grates don't move alot.

Your phrase it can get carried away needs some explanation, please, as I fear mine did it to me for a second time last night......I was cooking along just fine with Santa Claus nut coal when the whole fire box caught and I had bright orange glow and nothing would shut it down!!! The air draft at the bottom got shut tightly and the interior baffle got shut, too. I made sure all doors were closed real tight but the stove just kept cranking away. Let me tell you, it was very scary!
What can I do if it happens again and why does it happen? Is this scenario what you meant by CARRIED AWAY?
My stove is installed in the fireplace and there is no room for a baroque any place. I love this stove, except this model shakes poorly.......
Any suggestions to avoid this? Could it be bad coal or ????? Thanks Paula