Too Hot

I have a Hitzer 983 insert, approx 25 ft masonry chimney, burning Blaschak nut coal. About 29 * F outside. My problem: stove thermometer indicates about 500* F despite ashpan door inlets being essentially closed, and manual pipe damper all the way closed. If I open MPD all the way, will this reduce stove temp as I'd like, or will it increase temp due to "improved" draft?

Any other thoughts on how to keep temps a little lower?

Thanks.

Barometric damper.

Isn't that installed on the flue pipe, which would entail removing the 600 lb stove, installing in the flue pipe?

I would check the ash pan door gasket, if its good then is the door latch drawing the door up tight enough? MPD just my opinion for what its worth, I would leave it wide open when burning coal. New (coal) stoves designed well should not have them, wood/coal stoves will have them as yours is. People believe that they will keep the heat in the stove. Well what I see happens is that when you have a good hot fire burning with coal and shut down the MPD it will raise the stove temp untill the effects of less draft cool the fire. I have seen where people try to use there MPD like a heat baffel ( keeping the heat in the stove) this works till the lessened draft weakens the fire. Besides the idea is not to keep the heat in the stove but wash it from the stove via its external surfaces. The best way to control a coal fire is to control the inlet air not the exhaust air. Backing up the exhaust gas is like playing CO gas roulett Baro dampers are a great overfire safe guard but not so practical on a insert because of lnstall issues. Let us know what you find with the door.

Thanks Freddy and Semper Fi--

The gasket is in good shape--new stove as of 5 weeks ago. The whole stove seems tight, with apparently tight closures and seals. I opened completely the MPD, and temp dropped about 35*, so that was good. This AM I decided to try some "natural" draft reduction by shaking the grates less enthusiastically and allowing more ash to remain. Hopefully this will reduce airflow enough to permit more sane temperatures.

Looking at your insert I see that you have two secondary wood burning air inlets. You can allow little bits of air enter above the fire, this will lessen the draft under the coal bed.

Thanks for the input S Fi-- I already have them opened. Hot again tonight despite my ash strategy and relatively warm temps outside (43*), and closed ash pan intake. Guess I have one heck of a draft, huh? Not sure how that air could be getting in the stove.

Ohhhh, Insert. Yaaaa, that'd be dificult to install a barometric damper. I wonder what other insert people do? Is there a hand damper part of the stove? Do you have a manomometer?

Gotta find a way to install a baro damper on it.

Are you adding enough coal over the bed of red coals? From what I've read you need about 3in.or more of red coals with Anthracite to keep it going. I try to keep the red coals down to 3 or so inches and always pile on top of that with fresh coal to a ice cream cone type of look. That will cool the fire down and give a long burn. Some just add coal too often with little amounts thus the fire is always too hot.
That's why some might use pea coal on top of old stoves that aren't air tight. Blocks air flow. It will keep the fire down for a while and get a longer burn.

What kind of coal are you burnning.If it's superior that coal doesn't need much air to burn hot.If I have my air 1/8" open it will make as much heat as 3/4" open with crap coal.
DON

TOOO HOT!
I also have a Hitzer insert ---if I close the inlet holes completely the fire goes out ....... My stove is vented directly to a 30+ ft masonary chimney; as mentioned there is no outlet damper. A couple of questions?
Are you using the two fan blowers supplied with the unit? I didn't see them mentioned, the only time I reach those (500F) temperatures is when they are idled with the three-way switch. (I bought an optional reastat control for the fans .. with them set low the temperature really builds.
Are you keeping the gravity hopper filled to the top ........? Unit gets much hotter when you don't fill the hopper to door
after shaking.

Captcaper--Your mound method works well! Because we're due for highs in the low 60's tomorrow, I built the mound and have let the surround burn out. The intake vent is completely closed, and I'm still at 245* F. I'm guessing I'll add to the mound tomorrow and, when I want to go above this slow idle I'll shake the ashes, disperse the pile a little, build back out to the sides with new coal, and open the air intake. This should work, no?

BigBeam--I'm burning Blaschak nut coal. In my anthracite career, I've not yet burned other brands. By the way, my Zippo flame confirmed for me that, even though the intake is completely closed, those intakes are still the source of the air to the fire. The Hitzer intake method is a slide control, which slides an inner piece of sheet metal (?) over the perforations in the outer piece, which is the ash pan door itself. Despite a seemingly tight seal, there's enough of a gap for enough air to keep the fire alive to slip through.

BaldEagle--You must have the 503 insert. I have the hopper-less 983. Yes, even now at 245*F, the fans are still going, but I expect them to go intermittent soon. Unfortunately, the fans have only two speeds: OFF or FULL BORE. I emailed Hitzer about their factory-approved method to create more speed options/continuoulsly-variable speeds, but was warned that even their kit will void the blower motor warranty! So, I'm going to leave it as is for now. I'll be able to use the blowers' heat dispersing capability when temps get low, because I'm trying to supply heat (or at least the bulk of it) to ~4000 sq ft of living space. That's been no problem so far, even with temps as low as the high 20's. The firebox is big at 20X20 inches.

Thanks to all for your input.

ASHCAT TOOOHot!

Sounds like you are getting there, we heat about 3000ft - but need to use the Steam below about 10F. On the fan situation
talk to Dean @ Hitzer if you want confirmation -- I remember him explaining the bonnet temperature sensor comes on at 140F.

We use a continuously variable control sold by our dealer in conjunction with the supplied Hitzer 3-way switch. IF YOU wish just set the control to max. speed - put the Hitzer switch to down position (continuous mode) - and reduce fan speed. At lower speeds we seem to have a more efficient heat transfer on lower air settings and I can hear the TV better. The downside is when you wish to go back to the Hitzer Auto Mode you must raise fan speed to max before changing back to the Hitzer Aout setting ........ or you will cycle the ac motors on/off at the reduced setting and shorten the motors life. We are starting our third season .. as you mentioned the hopper is great!

my woodburnner is pretty old in age but it is still in good working condition. now one blower motor went on it. any body have any websites that I can get 2 new ones? help this thing is useless without blowers.