Need Help in Western New York

 
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gitrdonecoal
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Posts: 506
Joined: Fri. Oct. 16, 2009 4:35 pm
Location: Elba, NY
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90

Post by gitrdonecoal » Tue. Nov. 11, 2008 7:31 am

hello everyone, and may I just say right off the bat that this site is great. withthat being said I neee help. I bought a 1557 hotblast USSC with intentions of burning coal. I did everything you guys say, but by the sounds of it, its not a very good coal furnace. now its november, in fustrated, and the fiance is even more :cry: . since its already been used I cant return it. the wood burns great, but coal is not the same. so im stuck with it. does any1 have suggestions in making it work better???????? I read on here that a guy mounted a blower fan on the ash door, wont the ashes fly all over the place??? please help and thank you


 
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coalkirk
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Posts: 5185
Joined: Wed. May. 17, 2006 8:12 pm
Location: Forest Hill MD
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 EFM DF520 retired
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507 on standby
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite/rice coal

Post by coalkirk » Tue. Nov. 11, 2008 7:36 am

I don't know about mounting a fan on the ash door, might work. But for a long term strategy if you want to burn coal, I'd limp through this season burning wood and sell it in the spring. Order a good coal burner and never look back. Chalk it up to experience. Also unless you want the ability to burn wood also, I'd get a unit that only burns coal. The multi fuel units don't do as good a job. Too many compromises in design.

 
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North Candlewood
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Posts: 240
Joined: Sun. Dec. 09, 2007 9:00 pm
Location: Ct
Stoker Coal Boiler: Eshland S-130
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker A 120
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1602
Baseburners & Antiques: Princess Atlantic Cookstove
Coal Size/Type: Nut Rice

Post by North Candlewood » Tue. Nov. 11, 2008 8:38 am

Mudman
http://www.usstove.com/index.php?route=cms/articl ... ticle_id=2
11DIKL is the part from us stoves (it is on back order till Dec.) for the forced air draft (FAD) which mounts on the rear of your unit. I have been able to burn without one on the same unit we put in at a buddies home. It was tricky getting going. You could probly mount the kit from usstove for the clayton 1600, 16DIKL is the part number. Check the size of the port on the back, the 1600 port for the FAD looks to be 3.5 inch OD. you may have to sleeve to make it fit. The 16DIKL has other goodies with it.

 
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SemperFi
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Posts: 110
Joined: Sun. Aug. 17, 2008 8:36 am
Location: Western N.Y.

Post by SemperFi » Tue. Nov. 11, 2008 7:06 pm

Mudman, where in western NY are you?

 
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LsFarm
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Posts: 7383
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Location: Michigan
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Post by LsFarm » Tue. Nov. 11, 2008 7:16 pm

Hello mudman, there are several members on the forum who have managed to get their US Stove furnaces to burn acceptably..
One thread is here: Successfully Burning Anthracite Coal in a Clayton Furnace

Greg L

.

 
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gitrdonecoal
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Posts: 506
Joined: Fri. Oct. 16, 2009 4:35 pm
Location: Elba, NY
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90

Post by gitrdonecoal » Tue. Nov. 11, 2008 9:03 pm

thanks for all your help. its roarin heat now, 75 degrees and about to go to bed. but I got draft issues, which I started an new topic. you guys may read it and comment on it if you would like, and thanks!

 
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zimcocomp
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Posts: 12
Joined: Fri. Apr. 16, 2010 4:06 pm
Location: West Newfield, Maine
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1602M
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Wood

Post by zimcocomp » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 11:50 am

North Candlewood, do you still have a Clayton 1602? Did you connect a FAD (forced air draft) to it? If so did the blower connect to the secondary air intake? I am considering getting this system and would like to know a little more about how it works. More than the ones trying to sell it to me.


 
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windyhill4.2
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Posts: 6072
Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 12:07 pm

Coal likes a constant air supply thru the bed of coal,forced draft is not an ideal thing with coal. A stoker works with forced air,but uses a small bed of coal. The $$ saved on buying a wood burner & attempting to turn it into a good coal burner is not good for ones health,blood pressure issues,frustration levels,anger management issues, & then the property damage caused by flying objects............ thrown by the frustrated operator,throw in the verbal issues of saying things that don't help,it all adds up to,ain't worth it.Plenty of good quality units out there that were designed to burn coal well,& will save $$ in the long run when the big picture is viewed. :)

 
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CoalHeat
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Posts: 8862
Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

Post by CoalHeat » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 12:17 pm

I have a friend that has a similar "combination" furnace. Burns wood great, we tried to get it to burn coal, it didn't work very well.

Eventually he is planning on getting a dedicated coal furnace in addition to the wood burner.

 
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SWPaDon
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Posts: 9857
Joined: Sun. Nov. 24, 2013 12:05 pm
Location: Southwest Pa.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1600M
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous
Other Heating: Oil furnace

Post by SWPaDon » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 12:32 pm

zimcocomp, I sent you a PM with this information also:
Your Clayton 1602 has a plate in the front and rear of the firebox, that has 3 holes in each one. Either block those holes with bolts or something, or pull the plates and insert a piece of metal under them to block the airflow. This will also block all over the fire air because of the way the furnace is designed.
If you put a plate of metal, under the front baffle, over the fire air can be adjusted with the front damper on the stove. Bolts in the holes will completely block all over the fire air.

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hotblast1357
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Posts: 5657
Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 1:50 pm

windyhill4.2 wrote:Coal likes a constant air supply thru the bed of coal,forced draft is not an ideal thing with coal. A stoker works with forced air,but uses a small bed of coal. The $$ saved on buying a wood burner & attempting to turn it into a good coal burner is not good for ones health,blood pressure issues,frustration levels,anger management issues, & then the property damage caused by flying objects............ thrown by the frustrated operator,throw in the verbal issues of saying things that don't help,it all adds up to,ain't worth it.Plenty of good quality units out there that were designed to burn coal well,& will save $$ in the long run when the big picture is viewed. :)
I would have to disagree with every word in the post, my New Yorker wood coal boiler with a combustion fan has performed very very well this winte, with no mods done to it and no aggrevation.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Posts: 6072
Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 2:05 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:
windyhill4.2 wrote:Coal likes a constant air supply thru the bed of coal,forced draft is not an ideal thing with coal. A stoker works with forced air,but uses a small bed of coal. The $$ saved on buying a wood burner & attempting to turn it into a good coal burner is not good for ones health,blood pressure issues,frustration levels,anger management issues, & then the property damage caused by flying objects............ thrown by the frustrated operator,throw in the verbal issues of saying things that don't help,it all adds up to,ain't worth it.Plenty of good quality units out there that were designed to burn coal well,& will save $$ in the long run when the big picture is viewed. :)
I would have to disagree with every word in the post, my New Yorker wood coal boiler with a combustion fan has performed very very well this winte, with no mods done to it and no aggrevation.
New Yorker & EFM, to name 2 quality units,both made a wood /coal burner,both of those units are way above the Clayton/HotBlast/ many other names. You disagree with every word ? A stoker uses forced air thru a small bed of coal .... that is a fact. Plenty of good coal burning units available....Fact. With a hand fed unit,forced combustion creates a greater possibility of activating a dump zone then natural draft.... fact.

 
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hotblast1357
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Posts: 5657
Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 2:18 pm

I also used a hot blast furnace that I never had a problem with, if not for wanting to heat the garage and dhw with just one unit I would prob still be using the hot blast. And yes a stoker uses a combustion fan, a hand fed hot air furnace using a combustion fan does not create the possibility of activating the dump zone, it does not have a dump zone, the poster has a hot air furnace, so it does not apply, and a hand fed boiler with a combustion fan set up with a proper system does not dump as often as one would think.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Posts: 6072
Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 2:38 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:I also used a hot blast furnace that I never had a problem with, if not for wanting to heat the garage and dhw with just one unit I would prob still be using the hot blast. And yes a stoker uses a combustion fan, a hand fed hot air furnace using a combustion fan does not create the possibility of activating the dump zone, it does not have a dump zone, the poster has a hot air furnace, so it does not apply, and a hand fed boiler with a combustion fan set up with a proper system does not dump as often as one would think.
You are correct about the furnace not boiler.... so I looked at my first post,no mention of boiler there.... I must have gotten the boiler idea from some one else's post about their boiler. :roll: The fact is,the Clayton is NOT an optimal coal burner.......if a person owns one & wants to upgrade from wood to coal,yes, go ahead & modify the existing wood burner. If buying a unit to use,buy a unit that is better designed to burn coal from the git-go. :)

 
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hotblast1357
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Posts: 5657
Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 2:41 pm

They need to do whatever they can afford at the time, we are here to help them make it burn.


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