Hitzer Installation

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Sundin67
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Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 30-95

Post Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 2:31 pm

Attached you can see my Hitzer 30-95, and my exhaust to the chiminy. I have about a 10" difference, can I get a pipe that would attach to the flue of the Hitzer and go down to the exhaust, or should I move the exhaust up to the same level as the Hitzer flue?

According to the Hitzer web site, the rear of the stove should be 27" from the back wall, and the Flue should be 18", I thought the flue was the back of the stove, what am I missing?

Thanks,
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Cap
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Post Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 3:28 pm

Sundin,
The flue is your chimney.
The stove out is on the rear sounds as if it is 10" higher? I assume you are running 6" stove pipe. Either way you will have a very tight radius to cleanly catch the bend using an elbow and a tee ( for the barometer ). I don't think you can do it. Sounds quite tight. If you wall is real brick, appears as it is, you can probably get closer than 27" but I don't think this helps. Can you offset the stove a few feet to the left or top the right and run a horizontal section of stove pipe on a slight incline?

Sundin67
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Post Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 3:34 pm

Cap,

Do you think the best way to go about it, is to close up that hole in the brick and make another one at the same level as the rear of the stove?

I have a metal Chiminy which I could just raise up the ten inches or so?

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bobkat
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Post Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 9:29 pm

Sundin, I checked the Hitzer site and the numbers they gave was for clearance from a combustable wall. With your configuration of the outlet of the stove and the flue connection gives me concerns from a physical science point of view. Hot air/exhaust would rise upon exiting the stove. The lower location of the flue connection would concern me for the intrusion of CO in to enter the living space (verrrrry baaaadddd). Better solution would be to raise the flue connection to above the exhaust on the stove, preferrably with enough space for a barometric damper. Good luck
Bob

duck
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Post Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 10:29 pm

I have been in the Fire Dept. since 1967 and was Asst. Chief for a while, we responded to several incidents where solid fuel burners were connected to masonry flues lower than the outlet of the stove. In most all of the cases the stove would not draw well and smoke back and or set off CO and smoke detectors. One incident the home owner opened the door of the stove and the flames rolled out and singed his eyebrows and hair. In another case the draw was good but ashes accumulated in the low point and blocked the flue pipe. In every case the fire marshal wrote a stop order against the home owner, because of the connection.

Sundin67
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Post Sun. Nov. 09, 2008 10:01 am

I am going to raise the hole to the same height of the exhaust from the back of the stove; If I am understanding what I am reading that should take care of my problem with the air flow.

I am trying learning as I go, if I am right the flue is the part that is coming through my brick and goes to the chimney? That has to be 18 inches (according to Hitzer) which is what I have. Then all I will need is a pipe from the back of my stove to the flue that is 27" (according to Hitzer) long? Is there something else I am missing?

If you look at the bottom of my pic you can see my barometric damper , which attaches to the Exhaust pipe, (I am calling it the exhaust pipe, am I right?) the item pictured at the top. If I am right, all I will need is an extension of that piece to make it the needed 27”.

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gambler
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Post Sun. Nov. 09, 2008 10:17 am

I would make the new hole several feet above the top of the stove and use T's instead of elbows to connect to the chimney. That way you can remove a plug from the T and vac out any ash that will collect on the horizontal run. It will also give you more room to mount the baro. Also if you would happen to get a different stove at some point you will not have to move the hole again because chances are that a different stove will not have the flue exit at the same height as the stove you are installing now.

Sundin67
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Post Sun. Nov. 09, 2008 10:55 am

below is my T, once I get my brick work done, then I will attach the T to the stove and to the flue wear the birck is. On one end of the T I have the damper, which I can take off and clean. Am I not understanding what the damper is, or will this work?

An regarding your thought of another stove, my wife is already going to kill me with this one, so this will be it for me, and I am already on borrowed time:)
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xackley
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Post Sun. Nov. 09, 2008 11:22 am

Looks right to me. I would move the hole 1/2 inch above the outlet elevation of the stove.

BTW: I have been thinking about a Hitzer 30-95 for a couple of years for a warm spot in my living area. The Amish guy that sells them in my area said that he does not use a barametric damper in his home and barn installs. He said the air tight design of the stove makes it easy to regulate without one. Grain of Salt, he might have the perfect chimney.

dbev
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Post Mon. Nov. 10, 2008 7:29 am

Sundin67,
Hi I installed a Hitzer 30-95 this summer I'll attach some pics. If you are going to put a new hole into the chimney I would put It higher up if you can, that way you will be able to get at the clean out at the bottom of the tee. You will need a terra cotta or steel thimble that goes through the wall into the chimney. I had my installation inspected by the local building inspector and he passed it with the comment that it was a nice installation. I did install a barometric damper because of the great recommendations I found here on the site . The goal is to use the least amount of coal for the most amount of heat. The barometric damper helps you achieve this by keeping a constant draft regardless of weather conditions. Use at least three screws per pipe connection and you will be in great shape. If you have any questions PM me.

Dave
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