Almost There Need Some Advice Yet.

Modern and vintage hand fired coal stove are similar to a wood stove and in some cases can burn either. They need to be regulated and fed by hand usually every 12 to 24 hours depending on your usage. They require no power to operate making them ideal for rural settings with long power outages.
Joe B
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Stove/Furnace Make: Vogelzang
Stove/Furnace Model: Rancher

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 1:43 pm

I finally have this mostly figured out, but I need to extend burn time. I have a Vogelzang Rancher, and I cannot seem to get past 6 hours or so. I tried Blashock pea coal last night and it seemed nice. N where as hot as nut, but I really thought it would last me the 8 hours I am shooting for. Is it possible to go to pea/rice mix. Also would a barometric damper really help. I would have to get one I could splice in. They seem expensive, and I can't even find any. I just want to get 8 hrs so I could run all winter, and the size of coal doesn't seem to be helping much. Thank you.

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Devil505
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Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 2:14 pm

Can you run the stove a little cooler for longer burn times?
War is a game that is played with a smile. If you can't smile, grin. If you can't grin, keep out of the way till you can.
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Joe B
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Stove/Furnace Make: Vogelzang
Stove/Furnace Model: Rancher

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 2:18 pm

I did everything I could to burn cooler. It was made for bit coal. I created a refractory cement firebox inside. Sealed every gap. Gasketed around ash door as best I could. I have the ash door as tight as possible using magnets. HAve the draft on ash door tight and closed, with a manual damper closed 8" up stovepipe.

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Devil505
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Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 2:20 pm

How hot is it running with everything closed tight?

Edit: From the sound of it, once you light the stove you have absolutely no control over it....A very dangerous situation!
(Before you light it each time, as Dirty Harry would say: "You have to ask yourself one question:........Do I feel lucky?" :lol: )
Seriously, that's not a safe situation. Do you have a barrel of sand nearby to smother the fire if need be?

The fire is getting air from somewhere. Blow smoke towards the stove & see where it's drawn in & see if you can seal it off better....Don't follow the ash door held with magnets line?? Is there no mechanical mchanism to keep the ash door closed?
War is a game that is played with a smile. If you can't smile, grin. If you can't grin, keep out of the way till you can.
Winston Churchill
Shaking & Poking The TLC2000 Video

Joe B
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Stove/Furnace Make: Vogelzang
Stove/Furnace Model: Rancher

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 2:56 pm

Thank you for the concern. I do appreciate it. I have no safety concerns - in modifying this stove I have found that I can't get answers easily because everyone keeps talking about safety. 10" up stovepipe I have around 200 -250 using pea. Nut gives me a reading between 250 and 350.

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Devil505
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Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 3:08 pm

OK...No more lectures. I would use smoke to trace where the air is leaking into the stove & try to seal it up so that your air inlet wheel (on the ash door) gives you some control. Once you have some control just lower the temp a bit for longer burns. I don't think physics will give you longer burns at those temps since your stove is too small to hold more coal.
War is a game that is played with a smile. If you can't smile, grin. If you can't grin, keep out of the way till you can.
Winston Churchill
Shaking & Poking The TLC2000 Video

Joe B
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Stove/Furnace Make: Vogelzang
Stove/Furnace Model: Rancher

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 3:18 pm

Sorry forgot to mention that I get no pull from my cigar anywhere on the stove. I have done this numerous times and cannot see any pull. I have this stove sealed everyway I can find. The ash door, by the way, didn't have a latch. I made one, and the magnets were my idea to seal it tighter. I sealed where the firepit joins the base airtight with furnace cement. It has a tin floor to the ashpit so I cemented the entire inside, and the seams underneath. I double gasketed the ashdoor. That is the only place air could get in, and I can't do anything else there.

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Devil505
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Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 3:22 pm

Then I'm fresh out of suggestions. I'm guessing that the air is leaking in around your ash door. You'll have to figure a way to close it tighter, even if you have to prop something (like a brick) against it to force it closed or devise a latch for it.
War is a game that is played with a smile. If you can't smile, grin. If you can't grin, keep out of the way till you can.
Winston Churchill
Shaking & Poking The TLC2000 Video

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Joe B
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Stove/Furnace Make: Vogelzang
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Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 3:26 pm

Thank you very much. It is appreciated. Someone PMed me about the baro. Do you think it would help?

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Devil505
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Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 3:41 pm

Joe B wrote:Thank you very much. It is appreciated. Someone PMed me about the baro. Do you think it would help?
I doubt it as you have to figure out a way to stop the unwanted, excess air from entering your stove in the first place. Maybe someone else thinks differently, but I think a baro may be good to save coal & fine tune your system AFTER you solve the air leak problems.
War is a game that is played with a smile. If you can't smile, grin. If you can't grin, keep out of the way till you can.
Winston Churchill
Shaking & Poking The TLC2000 Video

Joe B
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Posts: 24
Joined: Fri. Sep. 19, 2008 4:23 am
Stove/Furnace Make: Vogelzang
Stove/Furnace Model: Rancher

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 4:31 pm

I am glad you mentioned the air leak again. I finally found it. It is the top of the ash door. You have to have the cigar right on the door to see the flow. I have no idea what to do though. The door is designed to fit snugger at the bottom. I made a latch, but that doesn't correct the top. I have gasket all around the door, but it is formed around the shaker handle , and that is where the leak is. It would have to be an outside fix.

rberq
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
Location: Central Maine

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 4:53 pm

How big is your firebox, and how many pounds of coal do you load when you fill it? That info will give us a better feel for how many hours of burn you SHOULD be able to get.

If your major air leak is around the shaker handle, I wonder if there is some kind of temporary packing you could use, say fiberglass insulation, to plug the leak. You would have to remove it for shaking and reinstall it afterwards each time.

I agree with Devil -- until you get control of the input air, don't bother with a baro -- after that it might be helpful. And running with the manual damper fully closed sounds a little scary. Do you have a CO detector? (That's not a safety lecture -- we all have them. Of course, the cigar may set off the alarm....)
Simple answers for simple minds.

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coaledsweat
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Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 5:11 pm

Do you have any spare rope gasket? Stuff it in the hole. Maybe some fiberglass insulation? Roll it up like you are making a snake with clay and wear gloves. I don't know what kind of gap you have or where, but maybe a roll of solder could help you out too, back up the gasket where it's open or wrap around the shaker shaft. That stuff can be tapped into a whole new shape very easily.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.

Joe B
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Stove/Furnace Make: Vogelzang
Stove/Furnace Model: Rancher

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 5:17 pm

Thanks. Gave me a few ideas to try. Do have 3 co detectors. I have closed the damper after starting every fire, even in the beginning when I overfired. I do have a very strong dradft though. Thanks again.

Joe B
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Joined: Fri. Sep. 19, 2008 4:23 am
Stove/Furnace Make: Vogelzang
Stove/Furnace Model: Rancher

Post Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 6:13 pm

Sorry, didn't see the question. 20lbs 10 " deep. I max it to around 25lbs.

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