Sticking Gaskets

siblay · Post by **siblay** » Sat. Oct. 04, 2008 12:31 pm

Fired up the Mark I for an Inaugural Burn. Door gaskets stuck to the unit and pulled out of their seats. What is good to use for keeping these from sticking? I'm thinking graphite. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

BIG BEAM · Post by **BIG BEAM** » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 11:41 am

The paint gets soft with the first burn.You could just rub a little coal dust an the edge of the door so it's not so sticky.I'm sure graphite will work well also.
DON

LsFarm · Post by **LsFarm** » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 12:12 pm

You might try puting a thin strip of aluminum foil over the edge of the painted lip. the foil may stick, but can be peeled off.. at least you will keep the gasket attached to the door!

Greg L

xackley · Post by **xackley** » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 12:29 pm

Ya, the gasket on my Leisure Line came off when I fired it up last night. I think I can just get some gasket cement and glue it back on. I will power brush the metal before re-attaching it.
Any suggestion on glue, or will the heating/hardware store have the perfect stuff sitting on the shelf.

I am running the stove anyway. I tested around the door without the gasket, and air is being pulled in, Not being pushed out. The CO detector is staying at Zero.

BIG BEAM · Post by **BIG BEAM** » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 12:57 pm

I used Hi Temp silicone on mine.It's still there 2 yrs. latter.
DON

LsFarm · Post by **LsFarm** » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 12:58 pm

You can use an actual 'door gasket cement' available where you buy the rope gasket material..This cement is pretty thin, and I find it difficult to work with unless you remove the door and lay it flat. Or you can get high temp silicone gasket maker /sealant.. I use Permatex 'Ultra Black' gasket maker as a glue.. it is easy to work with and sets up in about half an hour.. just close the door on the glued-in gasket to hold it in place..

I'd be very carefull about running the stove with the gasket removed.. I'd put it back in place and let the door hold it in,, burning the stove with that gap in the door, concerns me.. even though you have no leaks now,, you could if the weather or wind changes.. safety first !!

Greg L.

siblay · Post by **siblay** » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 2:06 pm

Got some Rutland gasket cement, which was very easy to work with. Put the gaskets back on early last night and hit them with some graphite. Seems to be the perfect solution.
thanks for the help!

klinker · Post by **klinker** » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 5:22 pm

I read a post not to long ago how someone had the same problem and sprayed Pam on the gaskets. Makes sense... Pam keeps meat from sticking to a grill. Naturally you will have to reglue the gaskets in the channel since they have already pulled.

warm now · Post by **warm now** » Tue. Oct. 07, 2008 4:53 am

When they installed my Mark III a few weeks ago the guy told me to open both doors every 10 to 15 minutes, just for a few seconds, for the first hour the stove is hot. When I asked why, his answer was " To keep the gaskets from sticking to the paint until it cures". I'm kinda surprised all dealers don't inform their customers of this simple preventative measure. Thank you to all of the well
informed people on this board. I've been "lurking" for several months and your info has been most helpful. I hope the tip I received from my dealer helps.

grizzly2 · Post by **grizzly2** » Sat. Feb. 28, 2009 6:41 pm

The inside of the hopper door of my Hitzer has gotten a buildup of a crusty material that forms in lumps. When I opened the door today half of the length of the gasket pulled away from the door.

It had stuck in a blob about the size of a nickle that looked like the same material forming on the door. Some must have chipped off and fallen on the stove top as I was closing the door yesterday, and melted. Fortunately I have some Rutland gasket cement in stock. It works fine, but I used to get a clear liquid, I believe was called "water glass" that never let go, which is good until you go to change a gasket. I would buy it again if I could find it because it could be scraped off the door with enough elbow grease, and I never had to worry about having a gasket fall off. Has anyone else ever heard of or used Water Glass

Does anyone know what that crusty junk is forming on the inside of my hopper lid

BobDavis · Post by **BobDavis** » Sat. Feb. 28, 2009 6:55 pm

Rutland makes a product called "water glass"
**Broken Link(s) Removed**BD

grizzly2 · Post by **grizzly2** » Sat. Feb. 28, 2009 7:12 pm

Hi Bob,
Welcome to the site here, and thanks for the help

Poconoeagle · Post by **Poconoeagle** » Sat. Feb. 28, 2009 8:00 pm

BobDavis wrote:Rutland makes a product called "water glass"
**Broken Link(s) Removed**BD

water glass comes in a 4oz. bottle and is a clear liquid that is brushed on the door with a small acid brush, then the rope seal is touched to it and stuck. most furnace refractory repair kits come with it . wholesale type supply house has it. I didnt know Rutland made a large container to mix and seal concrete. thanks for the link!
Sodium Silicate item # 5602 glue for fibreglass rope seals around combustion chambers
Lynn Manufacturing Inc
15 Marion St
Lynn, MA 01905 781 593-2561

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Sat. Feb. 28, 2009 10:26 pm

grizzly2 wrote:The inside of the hopper door of my Hitzer has gotten a buildup of a crusty material that forms in lumps. When I opened the door today half of the length of the gasket pulled away from the door. It had stuck in a blob about the size of a nickle that looked like the same material forming on the door. Some must have chipped off and fallen on the stove top as I was closing the door yesterday, and melted. Fortunately I have some Rutland gasket cement in stock. It works fine, but I used to get a clear liquid, I believe was called "water glass" that never let go, which is good until you go to change a gasket. I would buy it again if I could find it because it could be scraped off the door with enough elbow grease, and I never had to worry about having a gasket fall off. Has anyone else ever heard of or used Water Glass

Does anyone know what that crusty junk is forming on the inside of my hopper lid

Hi Grizz, I don't know what the crusty junk is but, I'm guessing it is a rust type of corrosion due to gasses and moisture mixed. This is one reason why the holes in the back of the hoppers has caught my attention. Will the holes take care of the crusty junk problem???? Don't know. When someone on this board mentioned moisture, they got my attention.

grizzly2 · Post by **grizzly2** » Sun. Mar. 01, 2009 5:56 pm

I am glad they still make the Water Glass. I tried to glue my gasket back in place today with some Rutland black goop in a tube. I had used some before and it works, but today my hopper door was still hot, and the stuff set up before I could get all of the gaske pressed into it. The fire started to climb the hopper coal so I closed the door. Later I went back and used some Permatex Blue automotive gasket sealer to stick the loose part of the stove gasket back in place. At this point I am just trying to get by until the end of the coal heating season, probably the end of this month.

After I let the fire burn out at the end of the season, I will take the whole door out in the shop and clean the channel real well and put in a new gasket using Water Glass. I did notice one thing about the Hitzer gasket installation that as I recall is different than either of the Jotuls I have had. That is that the channel the gasket is supposed to adhere to appears to be painted black like the rest of the door. Jotul always left the channels bare cast iron. I suspect that is why the gasket came off quite easily after only one year of use. The adhesive they used all stuck to the gasket and the painted channel was completely free of adhesive. In other words it did not stick to paint. Maybe I am mistaken in what I think I am seeing, but I don't think so. I will use laquer thinner to try to get all the paint off the cast iron before I install a new gasket.

Sticking Gaskets

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