Coalpail.com Forum

Hi. I am a newbie who just bought a used Harman Mark III that is 3 years old and in great shape except for surface rust (it was stored outside for over a year).

My question is about the glass front on the door. It sort of floats in the frame - I can move it a slight distance in every direction. Is this normal? I understand there is an oxygen wash system over the glass, so I am thinking that it shouldn't be fixed tight in place, but I wanted to ask the experts here. Do I need a new gasket? How much (if any) play should there be with the glass?

Thanks for your answers and for this great forum.

Im a newbie, but that glass should be tight to avoid CO2 probs. I have a Harmon, has cap headbolts to tighten the glass, mine is tight. I did go over everything to be sure even though it was new. I even re-cemented the grates, lol. Wait for other post, some smart mo/fo's here, but thats what Im thinking.

The glass in the doors of the MK series of Harman's should not be loose but fit snug in the gasketing around the upper three sides of the door. the bottom of the glass is not gasketed and provides above the fire air. I am debating putting a hand damper control like the one on the door on mine and sealing the glass tight so that I have better control of the draft.

The DVC 500 is a pressurized stove, the glass has to be sealed, The Mark series however, is a natural draft stove, under a slight vacuum all the time, there is a gap at the bottom of the glass to allow air to flow over the glass and keep it clearer longer.

If the glass is secure, that is, it can't fall out if you slammed the door, it is ok.. If it is really loose at risk of falling out, then get new gasket material and reset it..

Greg L.

Sorry for the poor advice, im still learning also.

The glass is loose in my Harman, never caused a problem. Loose side to side a few mm. This allows some air to pass as Greg mentioned. Some say, it also allows some air across the top of your fire to pull away the flammable gases which can rapidly burn if you were to open the top door of your stove prior to the ash door. I've only had one ignition but that's all it takes to scare the poop out of you. Luckily was was standing back.

Thanks for all of the information everyone. It doesn't appear my glass will be a problem, but I will get some gasket material just to have some on hand if it loosens up any more.

I have a Harman Mark III and the glass is not loose. There is space on the bottom to allow air in to clean sweep the glass. If the glass is loose you may want to replace the gasket. A rattling glass leads to broken glass.
Tom

All good info. Does anyone have a detailed instruction on how to replace the fiberglass rope on a Mark 2 (What size rope to use)? I replaced mine and didn't leave the bottom open. Now I have two leaks above the top of the door and need to take it apart and re-do it again.

Thanks,
Randy

Cap wrote:The glass is loose in my Harman, never caused a problem. Loose side to side a few mm. This allows some air to pass as Greg mentioned. Some say, it also allows some air across the top of your fire to pull away the flammable gases which can rapidly burn if you were to open the top door of your stove prior to the ash door. I've only had one ignition but that's all it takes to scare the poop out of you. Luckily was was standing back.

The glass should be seated against the gasket well enough to keep it from rattling when you close the door a little too hard. Loose glass is just a broken window waiting to happen. (& they're expensive!)