How many tons do you burn

midnightmadman29 · Post by **midnightmadman29** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 12:53 pm

I have a Gibraltar MCC. I pretty much had it running 24 hours per day from mid November- early March. I burned I little less than 2 Tons in that time.
Is that about the same as everyone else? I’m asking because I’m ordering for this winter but considering adding another ton to my order in case i need to start burning earlier or extend burning more into spring.

mozz · Post by **mozz** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 1:16 pm

Depends, any other heat source? Sq ft? 65* or 75* inside?

cArNaGe · Post by **cArNaGe** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 1:17 pm

I'm usually around 16 a year. I burn year round
There are a few threads already started about this if you want to read up

How much coal are you using?

midnightmadman29 · Post by **midnightmadman29** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 1:27 pm

I only use it to heat my finished basement and I blow the heat up to the first floor as well.
It’s not the primary source of heat for the house but it is for the basement
Basement is about 1200 sq feet.
Without it running the basement will be around 50-55°in dead of winter. With it running I’m around 80° ish

midnightmadman29 · Post by **midnightmadman29** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 1:29 pm

Last year I would burn about two 5 gallon buckets per 24 hours. Fill up at 6am and then again around 6-7pm.

Post by **Rob R.** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 1:31 pm

No harm in having extra. If you have the space and cash I would get the extra ton.

midnightmadman29 · Post by **midnightmadman29** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 1:49 pm

Rob R. wrote: ↑
Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 1:31 pm
No harm in having extra. If you have the space and cash I would get the extra ton.

That’s kind of what I’m thinking but it’s a LOT of money if I’m not going to use it. Right now it’s at $435 per ton where I am.

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 1:51 pm

midnightmadman29 wrote: ↑
Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 1:49 pm
That’s kind of what I’m thinking but it’s a LOT of money if I’m not going to use it. Right now it’s at $435 per ton where I am.

Considering it is not your only source of heat, get 2 ton and back off a little on the temp you normally run at. Coal will last longer and 77 is close to 80.

midnightmadman29 · Post by **midnightmadman29** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 2:03 pm

waytomany?s wrote: ↑
Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 1:51 pm
Considering it is not your only source of heat, get 2 ton and back off a little on the temp you normally run at. Coal will last longer and 77 is close to 80.

True! I may need to add a damper this year. On a windy day the stove was CRANKING Out some crazy heat

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 2:16 pm

midnightmadman29 wrote: ↑
Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 2:03 pm
True! I may need to add a damper this year. On a windy day the stove was CRANKING Out some crazy heat

You need a baro for sure then. Run less air and leave more ash on the grates. Get a magnetic thermometer and an IR gun. The more info helps dial it in.

midnightmadman29 · Post by **midnightmadman29** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 2:29 pm

waytomany?s wrote: ↑
Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 2:16 pm
You need a baro for sure then. Run less air and leave more ash on the grates. Get a magnetic thermometer and an IR gun. The more info helps dial it in.

How hard is a barometric damper to put in ? 6” single wall

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 2:35 pm

midnightmadman29 wrote: ↑
Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 2:29 pm
How hard is a barometric damper to put in ? 6” single wall

Buy the tee that is set up for one and slide it in. Level is important. Search for it here. Many threads full of info on brand etc.

nepacoal · Post by **nepacoal** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 3:01 pm

Using a Field Controls baro kit...

1. Bolt the baro frame on the stovepipe.
2. Draw line around inside of frame. (I use silver marker to see it better).
3. Remove frame and draw a second line 1/2" to 3/4" inside existing line. The two sides will be squared off so it looks like a birds mouth shape...
4. Cut inside line using a jigsaw, then cut 1/2" tabs from the inside line to the outside line using tin snips (don't go all the way to the outside line, leave a little so the tabs can bend up inside frame). Prebend tabs slightly. Re-mount frame, bend tabs up against baro frame with small gas pliers.
5. Probably not needed, but I use black RTV to seal the baro frame to the stovepipe.

midnightmadman29 · Post by **midnightmadman29** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 3:07 pm

nepacoal wrote: ↑
Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 3:01 pm
Using a fields baro kit...

1. Bolt the baro frame on the stovepipe.
2. Draw line around inside of frame. (I use silver marker to see it better).
3. Remove frame and draw a second line 1/2" to 3/4" inside existing line. The two sides will be squared off so it looks like a birds mouth shape...
4. Cut inside line using a jigsaw, then cut 1/2" tabs from the inside line to the outside line using tin snips (don't go all the way to the outside line, leave a little so the tabs can bend up inside frame). Prebend tabs slightly. Re-mount frame, bend tabs up against baro frame with small gas pliers.
5. Probably not needed, but I use black RTV to seal the baro frame to the stovepipe.

Thank you.
I’m doing so searches on them now.
Curious, is the ANY chance of gases ever backdrafting through them into the room?

nepacoal · Post by **nepacoal** » Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 3:37 pm

midnightmadman29 wrote: ↑
Wed. Sep. 06, 2023 3:07 pm
Thank you.
I’m doing so searches on them now.
Curious, is the ANY chance of gases ever backdrafting through them into the room?

During normal operation with a decent chimney setup, it would be rare... If your stove is susceptible to puff-backs after reloading, it can blow the baro out of the frame (happened to me when I had my big handfed boiler). If you lose the draft on warm spring or fall days, gases will come out of the stove and baro. If you have a good chimney and your draft is good, baro will add much needed control during those high wind days.