Thanks from a Lurker....

 
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Rinderciller
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Location: Turtle Creek, New Brunswick, Canada
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Other Heating: Diesel, Propane, and a Mini Split

Post by Rinderciller » Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 1:03 pm

I have temp gunned the wood at the back of the stove it has never gone over 83. it has a built in heat shield on the back, and once my son remembers he will bring more tin for the back wall. I will see what I can rig up for chimney support, once its redone inside I can either remove one of the 40 inch sections outside or use it to make the chimney taller....? Not sure if that is a good idea or not. (Code what is that....Long as I am comfy, get by and don't die I'm good.) Parts are not bad the whole interior is replaceable and its all cast. What would be considered over firing temp wise... I get your stoves are probably a lot bigger, but she seem happy with stove top temp around 450 and its hard to get her into the 500's . Even with the ash pan door open, and me sitting in front of it with the temp gun.


 
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ShawnLiNy
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Post by ShawnLiNy » Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 1:03 pm

Rinderciller wrote:
Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 12:53 pm
She seems to be working ok. I'm sure it will improve with the chimney improvements. But I have to remember to do a hard clean an hour or so before bed. Did a shake at 4 this morning and gave it 30 mins to come back up to temp and put a small amount of coal on 10 pieces of stove of various size. Than gave it another 30 mins to get lit good before shutting the ash door. Then at 10 I had a hard time getting it to liven up there was still a nice glow underneath but it wouldn't get up and running again, so I went in with the poker and drug all the ash out of the corners and got it all cleaned out underneath. Then I did something I know is frowned on I put a split on top to get it up and running again, and she took right off and I was able to toss some coal in in about a half hour. It seems to maintain day time temp in here at a steady 19 which is fine with me, although if the sun is shining it is higher..... Night stays around 16 which isn't bad.
stick with nut size ( you’ll get more coal in the stove which = length of burn , without losing btus stove size works better in quantity) and I totally forgot the humidity issues in an RV it was like a greenhouse sometimes especially when cooking which is basically all the time

 
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Rinderciller
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Location: Turtle Creek, New Brunswick, Canada
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Other Heating: Diesel, Propane, and a Mini Split

Post by Rinderciller » Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 1:09 pm

I'm doing ok humidity wise so far this year, trying to train myself in always running the stove fan and the bathroom fan. They I do the Scandinavian practice of airing out a few times a day. Seems to help, now don't get me wrong those damn corners and edges of the tip out and back of the cabinets still like to collect surface mold but luckily it wipes right off. I only got 4 bags of the stove to try so when I get more it will all be nut. But learning curve I want options....but maybe that is just a woman thing.

 
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ShawnLiNy
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Post by ShawnLiNy » Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 1:22 pm

Rinderciller wrote:
Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 1:09 pm
I'm doing ok humidity wise so far this year, trying to train myself in always running the stove fan and the bathroom fan. They I do the Scandinavian practice of airing out a few times a day. Seems to help, now don't get me wrong those damn corners and edges of the tip out and back of the cabinets still like to collect surface mold but luckily it wipes right off. I only got 4 bags of the stove to try so when I get more it will all be nut. But learning curve I want options....but maybe that is just a woman thing.
your rv looks wide open ,light. ( mine was 32’ but like a long dark hallway basically)

 
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warminmn
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Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite, lignite
Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt

Post by warminmn » Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 2:24 pm

450 temp should be fine. Its getting it up to 600 or higher for long periods that can get scary. (again opinions vary). No codes works for me. Some worry about them, some dont. Almost anything could be used to support the chimney weight, even chain if done right. The bought ones the chimney sits on them which is nice. Its more a matter of finance.

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 2:30 pm

Bathroom fan could cause a reverse in the chimney. Don't run steadily.

 
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Rinderciller
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Post by Rinderciller » Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 2:53 pm

It seems to settle out around 425 top temp, but when it gets down to around 250 thats when it gets hard to get it back. But that will come with more tinkering. Bathroom fan only runs when I shower.

Would you extend the length of the chimney outside when the new black pipe goes up inside or leave it where it is at and see how it does? If I raise it 40 inches in here that means one of the 40 inch sections will come off the outside. So that means it could be a almost 13 1/2 foot chimney instead of instead of a 10 foot.


 
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warminmn
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Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt

Post by warminmn » Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 3:21 pm

I am unsure on your chimney. 10 feet isnt very tall. But if its working maybe.

 
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Rinderciller
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Post by Rinderciller » Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 4:01 pm

I guess I will try the wait and see approach, until I can get a manometer. The Dwyer is not available up here in the great white north unless you want to spend over 300. And I am not finding any other analogue one just the digital and I'm not sure on those ones.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Jan. 29, 2023 7:34 pm

franco b wrote:
Wed. Jan. 25, 2023 2:30 pm
Bathroom fan could cause a reverse in the chimney. Don't run steadily.
Good call Richard, I was going to say the same. It might also be difficult for replacement air to get into the stove room causing the chimney difficulty with a decent draft. This could be a good situation for a dedicated fresh air inlet to be piped in close to the primary air control so the stove could pull it straight in and not cool the floor. I would tend to think that the camper is pretty tight relative to air infiltration. I'd suggest cracking a window open while you do your shake and load routine to help your chimney draft.

 
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Rinderciller
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Post by Rinderciller » Sun. Jan. 29, 2023 7:56 pm

Well I didn't put the foaming crack filler in the wall that is beside the stove, but I am not sure how much air leaks around there. But I will crack a vent or the door when I am doing stove stuff and see how it reacts. And if needed I will see what I can do for a permanent solution. One thing I am not scared of is putting holes in the wall.... :lol:

 
Hoytman
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Jan. 29, 2023 10:23 pm

Without having a Manometer…

If you have good control over the stove now I wouldn’t be afraid to add a section of length to your chimney. Better to have too much draft than not enough, at least in my mind. You can always control draft some with a manual stove pipe damper.

With a stove in an RV and a stove being dry heat I wouldn’t think moisture inside your RV would be an issue. If it is an issue then I sure wouldn’t add a pot of water to the stove top. You’ll likely get plenty of moisture just from breathing in such a small space…which is always an issue sleeping inside a pick-up truck camper.

 
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Rinderciller
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Location: Turtle Creek, New Brunswick, Canada
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Other Heating: Diesel, Propane, and a Mini Split

Post by Rinderciller » Mon. Jan. 30, 2023 9:29 am

It doesn't seem to make any difference if the door is cracked or not, at least on the last 2 tendings, I will continue and see.
I am learning the stove, and its time frames, and when it likes to have things done. It's like having a baby....lol

And yes truck camper can rain inside, I use to live in one of those when I was in Alberta, and in -30 cel/ -22 far, nothing can keep that thing warm. This is my 3rd rig, the last one was a 26 foot trailer, which like ShawnLiNy said was basically a hallway. That one rained to. This one is doing ok now that I put plastic on the outside of the windows lifted off the metal frame I have no condensation on the windows. Still a few spots on the walls depending on how cold it drops but that is because of the aluminum frame and the heat transfer. But every winter I learn something new to try. This year was the windows and coal.

 
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ShawnLiNy
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Post by ShawnLiNy » Mon. Jan. 30, 2023 4:04 pm

Hoytman wrote:
Sun. Jan. 29, 2023 10:23 pm
Without having a Manometer…

If you have good control over the stove now I wouldn’t be afraid to add a section of length to your chimney. Better to have too much draft than not enough, at least in my mind. You can always control draft some with a manual stove pipe damper.

With a stove in an RV and a stove being dry heat I wouldn’t think moisture inside your RV would be an issue. If it is an issue then I sure wouldn’t add a pot of water to the stove top. You’ll likely get plenty of moisture just from breathing in such a small space…which is always an issue sleeping inside a pick-up truck camper.
Moisture doesn’t become a problem in an RV in winter unless you , breathe, cook , eat or drink anything ( even though most let cold air right in especially older ones , they are surprisingly effective at trapping every molecule of moisture , opening doors or windows doesn’t really have an effect unless you can do it for 2-3 days around 50* or above ) mine would condense water on the inside of aluminum skin on the north side ) but mine was under a few large trees so very little direct sun in cooler months . Ceramic and oil filled electric devices really save the day if you have power

 
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Rinderciller
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Other Heating: Diesel, Propane, and a Mini Split

Post by Rinderciller » Mon. Jan. 30, 2023 7:10 pm

That is what I have the mini split for but it will run on solar once I finish that aspect.


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