You guys finally convinced me
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Since burning coal in the ds energymax 160 for about 2 months and 2 tons of coal . I noticed the days with wind I use more coal and days without I use less . I convinced myself to order a barometric dampener and Tee . And also a Dwyer manometer . I may also include a MPD just incase . I did get a cap as well so I can take it out and burn wood . The manual from DS says adjust barometric from .06-.08 if one is installed .
I just can’t get the stove top up that high with coal . 450-500 is max . When you have the bi-metallic up that high the flames do roar pretty well . Stove pipe is in the 150-175 range that high . I think I can keep a good bit more heat in the stove .
Lately this batch of coal convinced me . I seem to get a good bit of clinkers and I’m not really burning the stove that hot . So I assume I’m loosing heat up the chimney.
Needless to say with a manometer I won’t be flying blind either .
Any tips on shut down ? Things I should check out .
I plan on burning the bed down pretty far and shaking what’s left out . Disassembling the stove pipe , cleaning the fly ash out . Adding in the barometric and manometer .
I purchased a kit from The coal shop up in New York last night at work . The manometer came with a probe and pretty much ready to set up .
I don’t see it being a very long process .
Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
I just can’t get the stove top up that high with coal . 450-500 is max . When you have the bi-metallic up that high the flames do roar pretty well . Stove pipe is in the 150-175 range that high . I think I can keep a good bit more heat in the stove .
Lately this batch of coal convinced me . I seem to get a good bit of clinkers and I’m not really burning the stove that hot . So I assume I’m loosing heat up the chimney.
Needless to say with a manometer I won’t be flying blind either .
Any tips on shut down ? Things I should check out .
I plan on burning the bed down pretty far and shaking what’s left out . Disassembling the stove pipe , cleaning the fly ash out . Adding in the barometric and manometer .
I purchased a kit from The coal shop up in New York last night at work . The manometer came with a probe and pretty much ready to set up .
I don’t see it being a very long process .
Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
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- ShawnLiNy
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I’m with Lee , start at .04 and go lower if you are getting the heat you want , I ran .04 for years because that’s in the manual ( but what I missed was ( NO HIGHER than .04 this year I’m at a shade under.03 pretty much the lowest I can go without removing the weight , the difference between.04 and .03 is several hours burn
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- Other Heating: Oil/electric
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Here’s a better picture
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Well , also too I’m kind of flying blind . I know I have draft . I just don’t know how much yet. We’ll keep that in mind .ShawnLiNy wrote: ↑Sun. Jan. 22, 2023 7:09 pmI’m with Lee , start at .04 and go lower if you are getting the heat you want , I ran .04 for years because that’s in the manual ( but what I missed was ( NO HIGHER than .04 this year I’m at a shade under.03 pretty much the lowest I can go without removing the weight , the difference between.04 and .03 is several hours burn
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Check draft with manometer first for a baseline.
Install Manometer first and take reading before installing anything else.
Record it all on paper.
I wouldn’t be surprised if you’re already running lower than the manual states.
Install Manometer first and take reading before installing anything else.
Record it all on paper.
I wouldn’t be surprised if you’re already running lower than the manual states.
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Any suggestions on how to do this without shutting the stove down twice ? I would have to drill a hole to Insert the manometer probe . I’m trying to avoid tearing down 2 times . Or could I check this at the stove , through the gap around the shaker handle ?
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I doubt you have a gap big enough to fit the probe or copper tubing. You can install on the stove pipe, on the load door, or on the ash pan door and likely won’t see a lot of difference in your readings. The door installs will require a set screw. Me…I didn’t want to drill my stove so I went with the stove pipe install.
Here’s a thread I made when I installed my manometer. I’m pretty sure I detailed the entire install with pictures and maybe even links to the supplies I used. I elected to not install fittings in my stove pipe. I just drilled a hole for a stove pipe screw and my copper line slides right in. If I want to take it out I just remove it and use a stove pipe screw to close the hole.
Manometer install parts list
Here’s a thread I made when I installed my manometer. I’m pretty sure I detailed the entire install with pictures and maybe even links to the supplies I used. I elected to not install fittings in my stove pipe. I just drilled a hole for a stove pipe screw and my copper line slides right in. If I want to take it out I just remove it and use a stove pipe screw to close the hole.
Manometer install parts list
Last edited by Hoytman on Sun. Jan. 22, 2023 9:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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I just drilled a hole in the pipe with the stove going. Made sure the drill bit I used was only slightly larger than some brake line I had for a snug fit. Then slipped about 8” long piece of brake line into it. Attached the rubber hose that came with the mano to that and ran with it. Just had to keep the hose away from the stove.
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Hoytman wrote: ↑Sun. Jan. 22, 2023 8:31 pmI doubt you have a gap big enough to fit the probe or copper tubing. You can install on the stove pipe, on the load door, or on the ash pan door and likely won’t see a lot of difference in your readings. The door installs will require a set screw. Me…I didn’t want to drill my stove so I went with the stove pipe install.
Here’s a thread I made when I installed my manometer. I’m pretty sure I detailed the entire install with pictures and maybe even links to the supplies I used. I elected to not install fittings in my stove pipe. I just drilled a hole for a stove pipe screw and my copper line slides right in. If I want to take it out I just remove it and use a stove pipe screw to close the hole.
Post by Hoytman - Manometer install parts list
The manometer I ordered already came with a 8” probe . I thought I had the photo in the above with the baro . Must not have loaded .
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- Sunny Boy
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Must be a new thing for Dwyer. The Mark II kits I bought didn't come with a probe. Just the tubing and bottle of liquid.
Paul
Paul
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Mine never came with a probe. I wouldn’t have used it anyway and I also never used the red/gray hose.
You’ll see what I did in my thread. Just disregard all the other comments in that thread and only pay attention to my posts for what “I” did. Obviously, other folks installed theirs differently and that it ok too. I just felt my install was easiest for me.
You’ll see what I did in my thread. Just disregard all the other comments in that thread and only pay attention to my posts for what “I” did. Obviously, other folks installed theirs differently and that it ok too. I just felt my install was easiest for me.
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I edited the post above. The first posts I’m that thread show what I used to install my manometer.
No brake line for my style install and no brake line fittings. Copper line slips in and slips out of stove pipe. Stove pipe screw can be used to plug hole if you ever want to remove it all…make it look like it wasn’t even there.
Here is the correct link…
Manometer install parts list
No brake line for my style install and no brake line fittings. Copper line slips in and slips out of stove pipe. Stove pipe screw can be used to plug hole if you ever want to remove it all…make it look like it wasn’t even there.
Here is the correct link…
Manometer install parts list
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fig wrote: ↑Sun. Jan. 22, 2023 8:44 pmI just drilled a hole in the pipe with the stove going. Made sure the drill bit I used was only slightly larger than some brake line I had for a snug fit. Then slipped about 8” long piece of brake line into it. Attached the rubber hose that came with the mano to that and ran with it. Just had to keep the hose away from the stove.
Drilled with the stove running ? No sonic boom ?