Hitzer 30-95 draft settings
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Hi all new to the page. I installed a 30-95 in my house and a new class A chimney and finally got a good manometer setup to try and monitor draft and coal consumption.
The question I have is do you guys set your draft while the bimetallic is still open or after it's shut and the fires settled for a bit? Sometimes my bimetallic will stay shut for a while before it re opens and I've noticed my draft really drops. I only have a mpd to slow draft down if need be but the most I've seen since install is .05-.06 which should be well within the limits. Today it's actually dropped to zero with the warmer weather and rain! I opened my ash pan vents a bit to see if that will help the fire from dying down so much and keep a bit more heat in the chimney. I plan to get another 2 or 4' section to gain more draft.
Thanks for any insight
The question I have is do you guys set your draft while the bimetallic is still open or after it's shut and the fires settled for a bit? Sometimes my bimetallic will stay shut for a while before it re opens and I've noticed my draft really drops. I only have a mpd to slow draft down if need be but the most I've seen since install is .05-.06 which should be well within the limits. Today it's actually dropped to zero with the warmer weather and rain! I opened my ash pan vents a bit to see if that will help the fire from dying down so much and keep a bit more heat in the chimney. I plan to get another 2 or 4' section to gain more draft.
Thanks for any insight
- ShawnLiNy
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Each chimney setup is different some function into the low 60s others lose draft in the 50s , height of pipe /sun exposure / north facing , interior all will draft differently) if you have CO detectors if not get them and enjoy burning
- davidmcbeth3
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A manometer is just a measurement device, not a controlling one.
MY 503 has no need (or really able to be used) one.
I measure draft by hand (air near intake vents) or when I open a door in how hard it is to close.
I guess a manometer could be useful to some. And fun for others. I have an air velocity meter for scientific uses..never thought of actually measuring my stove with it...LOL
I just look at stove and thermostat on wall and when wifey yells she's cold, I'll open up the stove. A little. Can't be spoiling the wifey.
MY 503 has no need (or really able to be used) one.
I measure draft by hand (air near intake vents) or when I open a door in how hard it is to close.
I guess a manometer could be useful to some. And fun for others. I have an air velocity meter for scientific uses..never thought of actually measuring my stove with it...LOL
I just look at stove and thermostat on wall and when wifey yells she's cold, I'll open up the stove. A little. Can't be spoiling the wifey.
- ShawnLiNy
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Agreed thermostat takes care of overheating /some excessive consumption ( baro is invaluable for hand fired manual air coal burning)davidmcbeth3 wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 12, 2023 5:13 pmA manometer is just a measurement device, not a controlling one.
MY 503 has no need (or really able to be used) one.
I measure draft by hand (air near intake vents) or when I open a door in how fast it wants to close.
I guess a manometer could be useful to some. And fun for others. I have an air velocity meter for scientific uses..never thought of actually measuring my stove with it...LOL
I just look at stove and thermostat on wall and when wifey yells she's cold, I'll open up the stove. A little. Can't be spoiling the wifey.
- Rob R.
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Welcome. I believe the Hitzer manual recommends the use of a damper if your draft exceeds -0.06”. By the sounds of it, you can just leave your MPD open during normal operation.
- Lightning
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Does your stove have air wash lever to let air in over the fire? Extra secondary air will help keep the draft moving in those conditions and you won't over heat the house or burn unnecessary coal.
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How tall is the chimney?
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I want to say 16' but can't remember off hand it's a through wall install. The roof peaks 12/12 so I know it's not really within the 2 ft higher then anything 10 ft across rule but I still thought it'd have more draw then this
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It will only get worse under the right conditions and/or with high winds from the right direction.
With that much pitch and wind from the right direction coming across that roof can and at times will push down on that chimney…likely what you are seeing now. Under the right circumstances that situation can be very dangerous.
I would look into extending the height of that chimney to surpass the code rule (not just satisfy it) and if at all possible (it’s not always possible…in which case do what you can) to get that chimney higher than the roof peak.
- Rob R.
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Doesn't your stove have a sliding vent on the ash door? Crack that open a little bit, it is the equivalent of "setting the idle". Chimney needs to go higher based on your description of the roof.