Can I see some manometer set-ups ?
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Can some of you guys post some manometer pictures . Mostly I’d like to see how they are attached to the stove pipe . It was mentioned that I should get one on here . I do believe it would help me see what the stove feels like , and I could get that confidence to turn it down a little lower . I’d like to permanently attach to the basement wall .
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
- WNY
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Yes, to properly set the draft on your stove, you need a draft gauge.
there's a a lot good threads/pics on Manometer Install.
here's one:
Manometer Install
you can just hook it up before the baro damper, using a small fitting (sometimes the kit comes with the fitting) and a piece of copper or steel tubing for about a foot or so, for heat so it doesn't melt the rubber tubing going to the manometer.
You can find the draft gauge (manometers) on various websites, usually run $40 or less depending. most of use the Dwyer Mark II
there's a a lot good threads/pics on Manometer Install.
here's one:
Manometer Install
you can just hook it up before the baro damper, using a small fitting (sometimes the kit comes with the fitting) and a piece of copper or steel tubing for about a foot or so, for heat so it doesn't melt the rubber tubing going to the manometer.
You can find the draft gauge (manometers) on various websites, usually run $40 or less depending. most of use the Dwyer Mark II
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What if you don’t have a Baro or an MPD ? Would it make much of a difference . I basically wanted to see my draft vs the temperature in the stove pipe . I’m not really sure if I need a Baro or MPD . My stove owners Manuel says it’s not required unless your draft exceeds .08 water Column.
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I think of it as an extra safety measure. You always want to maintain a negative pressure in the stove. This is to insure that on milder days when the stove is running low and slow, you'll be able to see if your draft is trending towards failure. A failing draft can allow carbon monoxide into your home.
Other than that, it's a great tool to help you operate your stove.
Other than that, it's a great tool to help you operate your stove.
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That’s kind of what I was interested in , instead of using it to set a Baro . I was more interested in seeing the draft change from outside temperature . Using it to try to get the most efficiency out of my set up .
- ShawnLiNy
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it’s unlikely that your draft stays naturally under .08 Wc ( a small gust of wind over the top of the chimney can easily get you well over 1.5 Wc ) that would be almost 4 times the required draft and an enormous amount of heat wasted and coal burned . My first year I didn’t use a baro or a manometer I had no issues producing heat and was convinced I didn’t need one ( but occasionally on an overnight burn it would run way hotter than I set it for ) it may have been lightning who finally convinced me to try , people use a piece of brake line to connect the hose ( I’m at zero right now cause stove is off until I get back tonight or tomorrow) after baro was set with the manometer I used at least 25-30% less coal in a 24hr period . But efficiency was not my goal , stove temperature stability was. Happy Thanksgiving allzachary193 wrote: ↑Thu. Nov. 24, 2022 11:44 amWhat if you don’t have a Baro or an MPD ? Would it make much of a difference . I basically wanted to see my draft vs the temperature in the stove pipe . I’m not really sure if I need a Baro or MPD . My stove owners Manuel says it’s not required unless your draft exceeds .08 water Column.
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ShawnLiNy wrote: ↑Thu. Nov. 24, 2022 1:25 pmit’s unlikely that your draft stays naturally under .08 Wc ( a small gust of wind over the top of the chimney can easily get you well over 1.5 Wc ) that would be almost 4 times the required draft and an enormous amount of heat wasted and coal burned . My first year I didn’t use a baro or a manometer I had no issues producing heat and was convinced I didn’t need one ( but occasionally on an overnight burn it would run way hotter than I set it for ) it may have been lightning who finally convinced me to try , people use a piece of brake line to connect the hose ( I’m at zero right now cause stove is off until I get back tonight or tomorrow) after baro was set with the manometer I used at least 25-30% less coal in a 24hr period . But efficiency was not my goal , stove temperature stability was. Happy Thanksgiving all
I had it run away with wood on me earlier this year . I had taken the block off plate out that covers some of the grate area not thinking I needed it and it was windy . I had to open the door and open the dampener to get it cool sprinkle a little ash inside . After that I used the block off plate and haven’t not had the same problem since . Your statement is very convincing on the Baro though .i don’t get concerned about high temperatures with coal as the wood . But heat loss and burning efficiency does make sense .
Happy thanksgiving
Thanks for the help
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Here’s mine. No fitting to try and find and install.
I bought this …https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-help/ ... line&pos=2
… and some clear vinyl tubing the same inside diameter as the hose that came with it. The clear hooks to the manometer.
… I went to the hardware store and found some black tubing that goes inside the the clear vinyl tubing, and the 1/8” I.D. Copper fits inside the black tubing.
The copper line goes inside the stove pipe and fits perfectly if you drill a hole for a stove pipe screw. The copper slides in and out easily to clean or can be removed and a screw put in its place.
The copper line comes in an 8-10ft roll and I straightened it. Also, what is nice about using the copper line is if it gets too dirty I can cut the dirty section off and stick it back into the pipe, OR I can simply replace the short section of copper as I have plenty left from the roll to replace it several times.
I bought this …https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-help/ ... line&pos=2
… and some clear vinyl tubing the same inside diameter as the hose that came with it. The clear hooks to the manometer.
… I went to the hardware store and found some black tubing that goes inside the the clear vinyl tubing, and the 1/8” I.D. Copper fits inside the black tubing.
The copper line goes inside the stove pipe and fits perfectly if you drill a hole for a stove pipe screw. The copper slides in and out easily to clean or can be removed and a screw put in its place.
The copper line comes in an 8-10ft roll and I straightened it. Also, what is nice about using the copper line is if it gets too dirty I can cut the dirty section off and stick it back into the pipe, OR I can simply replace the short section of copper as I have plenty left from the roll to replace it several times.
Last edited by Hoytman on Thu. Nov. 24, 2022 10:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Yes it will make a difference. They are how you control or “set” your draft. Otherwise you are just measuring your draft with no way to control it.zachary193 wrote: ↑Thu. Nov. 24, 2022 11:44 amWhat if you don’t have a Baro or an MPD ? Would it make much of a difference . I basically wanted to see my draft vs the temperature in the stove pipe . I’m not really sure if I need a Baro or MPD . My stove owners Manuel says it’s not required unless your draft exceeds .08 water Column.
Wind very well could cause your draft to exceed operating parameters. If you don’t have a baro or an mpd then you have no way to control your draft.
A bi-metallic thermostat may negate the need for a baro or an mpd but you won’t know until measure the draft with a Manometer.
Honestly, coming from a wood burning background which I’ve always used a manual pipe damper in my stove pipe I will always have an mpd as a means of safety. You can always leave it open and leave it alone, but it is always there if you need it.
- WNY
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with the baro damper, which most stoves use, maintains good draft on fluctuating draft/wind, temp, etc. conditions,
Then you are not loosing more heat up the chimney if you have high draft conditions.
Most stokers stoves do not recommend a MPD just a baro damper.
I have one stove (keystoker) with a direct vent, but have a draft gauge permanently mounted, it maintains perfect draft until the direct vent/stove get ash build up and draft starts to decrease, (usually about 1-2 months depending) then I know it's needs cleaned out.
Then you are not loosing more heat up the chimney if you have high draft conditions.
Most stokers stoves do not recommend a MPD just a baro damper.
I have one stove (keystoker) with a direct vent, but have a draft gauge permanently mounted, it maintains perfect draft until the direct vent/stove get ash build up and draft starts to decrease, (usually about 1-2 months depending) then I know it's needs cleaned out.
- Sunny Boy
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A mano is not a one-time tool. It not only helps you find the best draft settings, it also helps you reset the dampers to that best setting after each refueling.
Paul
Paul
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Do you mean like in your stove or antiques with multiple or variable adjustments? Or would you say every stove?
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I would say that goes for any stove that is attached to a natural drawing chimney since it's influenced by so many variables. Even a finely tuned baro will go out of calibration because of fly ash accumulation on the backside of the door.
- Sunny Boy
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As you know, the colder it gets the stronger the chimney system draft gets, so sometimes the damper settings need to be changed.waytomany?s wrote: ↑Fri. Nov. 25, 2022 8:35 amDo you mean like in your stove or antiques with multiple or variable adjustments? Or would you say every stove?
The mano on my base heater helps me reset the dampers to best heat to match the weather conditions after a refueling.
The mano on my kitchen range helps me reset after a refuel the same way, plus set dampers for various cooking/baking temperatures needed.
Paul