Could you give an example? I don't really know how you fine tune a cookstove and I don't understand why you would need the mano to do it. I just can't wrap my head around it.Sunny Boy wrote: ↑Fri. Nov. 25, 2022 8:52 amAs you know, the colder it gets the stronger the chimney system draft gets, so sometimes the damper settings need to be changed.
The mano on my base heater helps me reset the dampers to best heat to match the weather conditions after a refueling.
The mano on my kitchen range helps me reset after a refuel the same way, plus set dampers for various cooking/baking temperatures needed.
Paul
Can I see some manometer set-ups ?
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- Sylvesterd101
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Here ya go on my harman sf260
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Nice set-up Sylvester!
On my Hitzer 354 blower model it has a built in damper and the rod for it is just above the doors. I run with the rod in the fully closed position (which only does actual damper 2/3’s).
With damper fully closed stove can vary from -.005”WC to -.02”WC under normal cold temperatures.
Depending on outside temperature and weather conditions I may adjust my draft by opening the damper some, or pulling the rod out an inch. Yesterday I ran it full open as weather warmed up, house was higher than our normal Tempe because of lots of cooking going on in the house and rising temperatures outside to 61F. We had 6 windows open and it was 77F in the house. Draft was near 0, less than -.005”WC. This is when I’d prefer to have a Magnehelic gauge because of the more precise scale (I need to order one). I rarely adjust this stoves built in damper. Yesterday was one of those times. It is most often run fully closed.
That said, there are times where it is really cold and very windy. During these times the stove damper rod is fully closed and my draft is still higher than -.01”WC to -.02”WC (normal range) and the draft will be much higher -.04” to -.06” (which is still in the stove manual range) but it could go higher. This is the time I reach up and use the manual pipe damper and start closing it until I bring the draft range back down to -.01” to -.02”, which is where I like to let it cruise.
Without the Manometer, and therefore KNOWING where my draft is at in real time, I have no idea what effect my adjustments might have on the draft. I adjust it and give it an hour. Adjust it and give it an hour. Over time you learn how the stove runs in certain weather patterns and you also learn how much it needs adjusted and then you can usually make one large adjustment without fear of making an worn adjustment.
Going in Freetown Fred mode for a minute. LOL! Hang on …
Without having my manometer I would never understand Fred’s comments about :
1. Over thinking things.
2. Letting the Hitzer do it’s thing.
3. Your stove may not run like a Hitzer because it’s not a Hitzer.
… so the Manometer let me take Fred’s good word and trust it. No Barometric damper in the pipe and I really don’t need a manual pipe damper either, or I can just leave the mpd open all the time WHILE letting the stove alone to let the bi-metallic do it’s thing.
I have found that with the heat exchanger in this stove and letting the thermostat run the stove on its own that I really don’t need to do anything else. I leave the manual stove pipe damper alone (I could even take it out of the pipe) AND rather than run with the built in stove damper closed like I usually do I can actually fully open the stove damper and the thermostat will still run the stove on its own with only a slight degree change in stove pipe temp.
Sure, the cold wind can blow and pull hard on the firebox. The stove gets hotter and the thermostat senses this and keeps it closed much longer than normal.
The bi-metal thermostat is as near perfect as it gets, just like the advice and wisdom of the old codger himself, Freetown Fred.
I really have to hand it to him…the gadgets aren’t needed with a Hitzer. The lower thermostat flap intake does it all perfectly.
I rarely touch to dial on the back unless there’s a large outside air temp DROP and I’ll bump the dial up…and remember my 354 has a solid ash pan door, so no vents in ash pan door.
My hats off to Freetown Fred!
I’ll let Paul answer this about cookstoves since I don’t have one (yet).waytomany?s wrote: ↑Fri. Nov. 25, 2022 9:46 amCould you give an example? I don't really know how you fine tune a cookstove and I don't understand why you would need the mano to do it. I just can't wrap my head around it.
On my Hitzer 354 blower model it has a built in damper and the rod for it is just above the doors. I run with the rod in the fully closed position (which only does actual damper 2/3’s).
With damper fully closed stove can vary from -.005”WC to -.02”WC under normal cold temperatures.
Depending on outside temperature and weather conditions I may adjust my draft by opening the damper some, or pulling the rod out an inch. Yesterday I ran it full open as weather warmed up, house was higher than our normal Tempe because of lots of cooking going on in the house and rising temperatures outside to 61F. We had 6 windows open and it was 77F in the house. Draft was near 0, less than -.005”WC. This is when I’d prefer to have a Magnehelic gauge because of the more precise scale (I need to order one). I rarely adjust this stoves built in damper. Yesterday was one of those times. It is most often run fully closed.
That said, there are times where it is really cold and very windy. During these times the stove damper rod is fully closed and my draft is still higher than -.01”WC to -.02”WC (normal range) and the draft will be much higher -.04” to -.06” (which is still in the stove manual range) but it could go higher. This is the time I reach up and use the manual pipe damper and start closing it until I bring the draft range back down to -.01” to -.02”, which is where I like to let it cruise.
Without the Manometer, and therefore KNOWING where my draft is at in real time, I have no idea what effect my adjustments might have on the draft. I adjust it and give it an hour. Adjust it and give it an hour. Over time you learn how the stove runs in certain weather patterns and you also learn how much it needs adjusted and then you can usually make one large adjustment without fear of making an worn adjustment.
Going in Freetown Fred mode for a minute. LOL! Hang on …
Without having my manometer I would never understand Fred’s comments about :
1. Over thinking things.
2. Letting the Hitzer do it’s thing.
3. Your stove may not run like a Hitzer because it’s not a Hitzer.
… so the Manometer let me take Fred’s good word and trust it. No Barometric damper in the pipe and I really don’t need a manual pipe damper either, or I can just leave the mpd open all the time WHILE letting the stove alone to let the bi-metallic do it’s thing.
I have found that with the heat exchanger in this stove and letting the thermostat run the stove on its own that I really don’t need to do anything else. I leave the manual stove pipe damper alone (I could even take it out of the pipe) AND rather than run with the built in stove damper closed like I usually do I can actually fully open the stove damper and the thermostat will still run the stove on its own with only a slight degree change in stove pipe temp.
Sure, the cold wind can blow and pull hard on the firebox. The stove gets hotter and the thermostat senses this and keeps it closed much longer than normal.
The bi-metal thermostat is as near perfect as it gets, just like the advice and wisdom of the old codger himself, Freetown Fred.
I really have to hand it to him…the gadgets aren’t needed with a Hitzer. The lower thermostat flap intake does it all perfectly.
I rarely touch to dial on the back unless there’s a large outside air temp DROP and I’ll bump the dial up…and remember my 354 has a solid ash pan door, so no vents in ash pan door.
My hats off to Freetown Fred!
Last edited by Hoytman on Fri. Nov. 25, 2022 4:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- Sunny Boy
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For just heating the back half of the house I set the dampers to give a .005 - .01 mano reading. That keeps the top plates over the firebox at about 550-600F - hot enough to cook breakfast and lunch type foods. And, oven temps in the mid 200F. The temp we use when baking bacon or slow cooking meats.waytomany?s wrote: ↑Fri. Nov. 25, 2022 9:46 amCould you give an example? I don't really know how you fine tune a cookstove and I don't understand why you would need the mano to do it. I just can't wrap my head around it.
When it comes time to cook/bake dinner we often use higher temps. For frying 700F top plates works best and oven at 350F for faster baking or baking recipes that call for a higher temp. That takes opening the primary and MPD a bit more to get a mano reading of around .04. Once dinner is over, we set the dampers back to a .005 - .01 reading.
In really cold weather of January & February, we need more heat output, so we run it at .01 - .015 mano, and bump up from there for cooking/baking.
Making all those temperature changes during the day, the mano lets us precisely set the dampers so that we are not over or under firing the range.
Paul
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Some pickszachary193 wrote: ↑Thu. Nov. 24, 2022 5:53 amCan some of you guys post some manometer pictures . Mostly I’d like to see how they are attached to the stove pipe . It was mentioned that I should get one on here . I do believe it would help me see what the stove feels like , and I could get that confidence to turn it down a little lower . I’d like to permanently attach to the basement wall .
Thanks in advance
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One quick note on my install video, a detail I forgot to mention.
You see the stove pipe and the copper fitting “into” the black tubing fitting “into” the clear tubing fitting “into” the gauge. The copper line I.D. is the same size as the intake hole I.D. on the manometer.
You see the stove pipe and the copper fitting “into” the black tubing fitting “into” the clear tubing fitting “into” the gauge. The copper line I.D. is the same size as the intake hole I.D. on the manometer.
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Nice set-ups guys , definitely going to invest in one .
- Sylvesterd101
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absolutely worth it, atleast for someone with a hand fed like mine. there are so many small adjustments that have to be made almost daily to get good burn times etc..
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I don’t have too much adjustments I can makeSylvesterd101 wrote: ↑Sun. Nov. 27, 2022 9:21 amabsolutely worth it, atleast for someone with a hand fed like mine. there are so many small adjustments that have to be made almost daily to get good burn times etc..
1. Bi metallic dampener
2. Air wash ( only use this with wood or to get the blue flames to head toward the back of the stove )
3. Stove dampener ( I run this closed all the time )
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Magnehelic guage on mine. 1/4" copper line and a compression fitting on both ends.
Paulie
Paulie
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I have the Manometer, but I want to get a magnehelic. I just like the additional precision.
Nice clean set-up, Paulie.
Nice clean set-up, Paulie.
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I used a 3/16 compression fitting and drilled a hole threw stove pipe and just used a cut down coupler on inside little high temp rtv sealant on threads , goes from that to 3/16 brake line across back of of up behind protected wall into 3/16 rubber hose into magnehelic gauge mounted in old piece of wood i rusticated mounted to shelf that was rusticated have a heat shield on my stove pipe to keep the high heat when burning wood of the shelf
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87D6-7BC3FFB76FF6.jpeg[/attachment]
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Just some others views , I’ll redo the line next season , it’s just what I had laying around
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Mobile-tech1 wrote: ↑Mon. Nov. 28, 2022 2:42 pmD44CA941-B4DA-42E8-9FCB-A629236D8CEC.jpeg3D57A429-D2E9-4ED3-87F3-43D6127B508A.jpegE8C79325-75C8-46D5-95CB-BF977B230EAA.jpeg I used a 3/16 compression fitting and drilled a hole threw stove pipe and just used a cut down coupler on inside little high temp rtv sealant on threads , goes from that to 3/16 brake line across back of of up behind protected wall into 3/16 rubber hose into magnehelic gauge mounted in old piece of wood i rusticated mounted to shelf that was rusticated have a heat shield on my stove pipe to keep the high heat when burning wood of the shelfF57A1656-A97E-47EE-B754-9811BDC10186.jpeg
That’s a real nice set up . I don’t think my wife would mind that too much