Fired up one of my stoves on Saturday
I have a home with a lower level walkout basement, a first floor, and a second floor. I have 2 Hitzer 503's, one in the lower level walkout and one on the first floor. The temperatures have been dipping down around freezing at night so I decided to light the stove in the lower level. I love that lower level. It heats easy and the stove doesn't need to burn that hot. I modified the door at the top of the stairs so that the heat can easily flow out of the lower level.
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- Location: Bethel, Pa
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 2 Legacy TLC 2000 one in the upper and 1 in the lower part of the house
- Coal Size/Type: Wood and pea, nut ,stove and egg coal
It's good that you have two of the same model stoves. That way if one would break down your parts are interchangeable That's why I got two of the same model stoves, and have tried some of the major parts for fit and they are interchangeable.
Be prepared !!!!!!!
Be prepared !!!!!!!
Yes. The beautiful thing about these Hitzers is they are gravity fed. They do have a blower on each side but they are not necessary to function. I guess if you really want to use stove to maximum capacity, blowers remove heat and allow you to burn a hotter fire but any fan blowing on a stove can probably accomplish the same thing.Hounds51 wrote: ↑Mon. Oct. 24, 2022 8:53 pmIt's good that you have two of the same model stoves. That way if one would break down your parts are interchangeable That's why I got two of the same model stoves, and have tried some of the major parts for fit and they are interchangeable.
Be prepared !!!!!!!
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- Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354
- Coal Size/Type: nut coal
- Other Heating: electric, wood, oil
That’s right around that .83 lbs/hr mark. That idling way down there. That’s about where my Hitzer 354 runs most of the year, just a tad more, around .88lbs/hr. Less than they advertise them.
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- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
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So you both have hopper fed bi metal controlled stoves right ?
If the area you are wanted heated is up to target, turn your bi metal down as far as it goes, adjust the ball clip down to the spot the flap is just closed,( one ball up would have it open a small amount. ) turn the dial to get the flap open 1/32 to 1/16”
Control your draft to .01-.02, not less or more.
Shake just enough to get not more than one red coal in pan every 12 hours and refill the hopper.
In two days you should be burning in the .62 range.
.5 is doable but you will need -.03 to be sure you maintain exhaust volume and flue temperature
It’s early, have fun
If the area you are wanted heated is up to target, turn your bi metal down as far as it goes, adjust the ball clip down to the spot the flap is just closed,( one ball up would have it open a small amount. ) turn the dial to get the flap open 1/32 to 1/16”
Control your draft to .01-.02, not less or more.
Shake just enough to get not more than one red coal in pan every 12 hours and refill the hopper.
In two days you should be burning in the .62 range.
.5 is doable but you will need -.03 to be sure you maintain exhaust volume and flue temperature
It’s early, have fun
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- Posts: 5990
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 18, 2017 11:30 pm
- Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354
- Coal Size/Type: nut coal
- Other Heating: electric, wood, oil
KC, does your (all) DS stove(s) have a magnet on the flap? Just wondering.
By the way, you’re the only person I know of on the forum that has mentioned adjusting the ball chain away from a factory setting. I think I have a feel for why you do it.
That chain is adjustable for a reason, yet it is hardly mentioned, let alone discussed. Obviously, it’s easy enough to run the stoves on the factory ball chain settings so not many want to mess with them. Still, that doesn’t take away from the fact that the ability to adjust it is there.
By the way, you’re the only person I know of on the forum that has mentioned adjusting the ball chain away from a factory setting. I think I have a feel for why you do it.
That chain is adjustable for a reason, yet it is hardly mentioned, let alone discussed. Obviously, it’s easy enough to run the stoves on the factory ball chain settings so not many want to mess with them. Still, that doesn’t take away from the fact that the ability to adjust it is there.
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- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
No magnet on my stove can’t comment on others. If you look back a few comments there’s is a good side on pic of the DS spout and flap, all cast aluminum.
The adjustment I described is for maintaining the slowest possible fire rate during shoulder months.
The flap will close some if it gets warmer out, but it won’t open past where you set it.
Kind of the reverse of the factory procedure. In that case you set the dial and ball clip as you described before and if / when the house cools off the bi metal pulls the flap open to compensate.
The adjustment I described is for maintaining the slowest possible fire rate during shoulder months.
The flap will close some if it gets warmer out, but it won’t open past where you set it.
Kind of the reverse of the factory procedure. In that case you set the dial and ball clip as you described before and if / when the house cools off the bi metal pulls the flap open to compensate.