Stovepipe Damper

 
musikfan1968
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Post by musikfan1968 » Wed. Oct. 12, 2022 10:20 pm

Good evening, all. Hope this finds you anticipating another exciting heating season. I'm still chomping at the bit to fire up my stove, but these 60+ degree days are frustrating my plans. I feel like I'm still stuck somewhere in the middle - cold nights but also warm days!

At any rate, I have a question: When my chimney guy put in my new stovepipe, he installed a regular damper, not a barometric one with the flap like I used to have. He told me that those actually aren't necessary, but I always thought they were helpful, especially if it was real windy outside. Do I operate this damper the same way I'd operate it if I was burning wood?? When I had a woodstove, I'd turn it at night to "back off the stove" so that I'd get longer burns with my wood. But isn't coal going to be different? I've never used one of these with a coal stove, so I'm concerned that I don't screw things up. I didn't ask him to put this damper in because I thought he'd use the barometric one that came with my stove. Any advice would be helpful.


 
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Post by Hounds51 » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 11:44 am

Some people swear by the barometric dampers, and then some people swear at them. There is a thread listed on Baro vs manual dampers. After reading many of the posts, I walked away with no direct opinion, other than if you are also burning wood, then you might want to consider not using a baro, as if you were to have a chimney fire you can't safely shut your air off due to the flapper. I almost bought a baro, but never did. Been burnin wood and coal for over 50 plus years and always used a manual pipe damper. In fact I would never consider burning wood without one, as you can control your fire output via the manual damper.
All in all I think the choice is your's.
Here is the thread that I was talking about
Manual Pipe Dampers .. How, Why, When

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 11:52 am

A lot depends on what you are using for a stove. If your stove has an automatic control on the inlet damper, I would just leave things the way they are. If your stove only has manual controls, you would benefit from a barometric draft control.

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 12:42 pm

If you have a manometer hooked up, you can also watch to see if you have excessive draft. A manual damper can often be closed all the way if it has the holes in it. A manometer would help with that also. Im thinking that Franco Belge might recommend a baro but am unsure. Your installer may not like them. Many people dont. Others love them.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 1:03 pm

Course-- your installer will try & suck as much $$$$ as he can out of ya. Personally, I'd try a MPD & if not happy,, I MIGHT consider a BARO Where the hell is Richard (franco-b) when we need him???? :)

 
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Post by Hounds51 » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 6:04 pm

See what I mean? It all depends on what side of the street you are on.
Big debates on which is best. In fact if you keep on reading that thread, you will find that it almost got into a fighting match about which is best.
I guess the best answer is what ever suits your fancy.

 
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Post by musikfan1968 » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 6:17 pm

Folks, as always I appreciate the valuable input.

This is only my second season burning coal (and my first was way back in 2011). I have the same model stove I had before but that one had the Baro only - no MPD. I had an excellent burning season with that set-up, so I'm not exactly sure what to expect this year. I also was burning through an actual fireplace chimney with a stainless steel liner. I had excellent drafts and that chimney was already a gem because I used to burn plain wood fires in it and NEVER had one bit of smoke. Now I'm using a stainless steel chimney pipe through my living room wall, so I have no idea how this is going to fair. I do know that I will most definitely burn with the MPD more open than closed, at least until I get a better feel for how this stove will behave.

If Franco-B can hop on to this discussion, it would be helpful to me. Incidentally, my stove has a thermostat control on it already, so I'm wondering how that will interact with a MPD. Franco-B would most likely know this, so if anyone can get a hold of him to give his input, that might be helpful, too.

Thanks again, everyone. Please keep the comments coming. I enjoy reading them and hearing what y'all have to say - positive or negative....


 
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Post by musikfan1968 » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 6:18 pm

Hounds51 wrote:
Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 11:44 am
Some people swear by the barometric dampers, and then some people swear at them. There is a thread listed on Baro vs manual dampers. After reading many of the posts, I walked away with no direct opinion, other than if you are also burning wood, then you might want to consider not using a baro, as if you were to have a chimney fire you can't safely shut your air off due to the flapper. I almost bought a baro, but never did. Been burnin wood and coal for over 50 plus years and always used a manual pipe damper. In fact I would never consider burning wood without one, as you can control your fire output via the manual damper.
All in all I think the choice is your's.
Here is the thread that I was talking about
Manual Pipe Dampers .. How, Why, When
Yep, I started reading and I see what you are talking about. I understand the pros and cons of both sides, so it's going to be a toss up. I am not burning wood, but if I did (and I have in the past) I would definitely use a MPD.

 
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Post by musikfan1968 » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 6:21 pm

warminmn wrote:
Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 12:42 pm
If you have a manometer hooked up, you can also watch to see if you have excessive draft. A manual damper can often be closed all the way if it has the holes in it. A manometer would help with that also. Im thinking that Franco Belge might recommend a baro but am unsure. Your installer may not like them. Many people dont. Others love them.
I would be really interested to hear what Franco-B says. If the consensus is to have a Baro as well, I'm not sure how that's going to happen. I'd have to have my chimney guy come back and reconfigure the stove pipe to accommodate the Baro.

 
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Post by ShawnLiNy » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 7:02 pm

Actually there isn't Any debate at all if your over .06-7 wc your wasting heat , if manufacture calls for a baro use a baro , my first season I thought I did great with no baro , I use about 20-30% with baro heat stays in stove longer ( cover with foil when burning wood )

 
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Post by nut » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 8:59 pm

Each chimney and location is different. Short run chimneys are more prone to draft changes due to wind. How the winds hit your house due to the terrain and your roof can also affect things.

 
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Post by franco b » Thu. Oct. 13, 2022 11:43 pm

The thermostat can handle draft and temperature without any dampers at all.

If a typical manual damper, then the handle should be vertical for maximum draft.

 
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Post by oliver power » Fri. Oct. 14, 2022 12:28 am

Pretty much what has been said so far. I've used both, and will give my opinion / experience.

1.) Manual controls, and / or non-adjustable over fire air = Barometric Damper. Set it, and forget it. Manual damper if you like fiddling with the manual damper.

2.) Bi-metallic Thermostat = no Damper, unless non-adjustable over fire air.

3.) Manual damper if burning wood, and / or for safety purposes (piece of mind).

 
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Post by musikfan1968 » Fri. Oct. 14, 2022 7:53 am

Sounds to me like I've got my answer, folks. The Franco Belge stove has the dial/thermostat which helps. I will go with what Franco B recommended, simply because he's running the same stove as me. I'm planning to fire up sometime next week, so I'll let y'all know how things are going after a week or so of burning .

 
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Oct. 14, 2022 9:55 am

Wise decision M!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :yes: :)


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