Fireproof film for glass door

I am reposting this in here. Thanks in advance for your help.
I put new glass in the door of my SAEY 92 stove before last year. I was cleaning the glass over the weekend getting ready for this winter and I noticed very fine cracks on the inside of the glass. It seems like it is only on the inside. Is there any fireproof film that they sell that I can stick on the inside of the door to prolong the life of the glass? Although it seems like it is spider-webbed, I would like to put something on it that will hold it together and keep it from fully shattering and falling out. I really like this stove but I shouldn't have to replace the glass every year. Should I be concerned with this or will it last as long as it's only spider-webbed on the inside of the glass? Is it dangerous to operate this way?

Seems to be just burnin coal A---

freetown fred wrote: ↑

Mon. Sep. 12, 2022 10:38 am

Seems to be just burnin coal A---

?

Austin wrote: ↑

Mon. Sep. 12, 2022 11:04 am

?

What Fred means is that glass heat crazing on the inner surface is common and a result of the high heat from burning coal. It can sometimes happen in wood stoves, too.

It's been a common topic here for years. There is no "cure" other than don't run the stove hot or change to a new piece of tempered glass after a few years.

Paul

Ok thank you very much.
I didn't think I fired it too hot. I was just worried that it would crack right thru.

I've had good luck chiseling the fire view window on my AA 130 with a razor blade. So far it's brought the glass back to brand new. Although, the material is neoceram which might be different than tempered glass..

Not dangerous to use at all , although it's always a great idea to keep a spare glass or precut piece of steel on hand for when the inevitable happens . Neoceram and robax won't ever break from heat or thermal shock , flexing from wood touching the glass or the slightest impact can cause it to crack sometimes instantly sometimes weeks later but this has nothing to do with the surface crazing ( my current glass is on its 6-7th season )

Where is the best place to get neoceram or robax? Which is better and are they both easy to cut? Sorry for so many questions, but I would like to have a back plan just in case.

I ordered mine online, I only needed a circle with a hole in the center so it was easy. I'm not sure what shape you need.

https://www.onedayglass.com/

I bought 2 pieces, one for a spare.. by getting 2, the second piece was almost half price. Either way, be prepared for some sticker shock lol

Austin wrote: ↑

Mon. Sep. 12, 2022 1:56 pm

Where is the best place to get neoceram or robax? Which is better and are they both easy to cut? Sorry for so many questions, but I would like to have a back plan just in case.

as lightening I have also used one day glass ( they both perform the same so go with whichever is less ) Just measure your existing glass and they will cut it ( I believe they use a wet saw ) you can call around to local glass places they may have some on hand , you want the clips or retainers just snug enough so glass doesn't move , good luck man

Schott Robax Glass



Hitzer coal stoves use Robax glass. (Scroll down to page 2 of brochure and expand to see kind of glass Hitzer used that is 5mm thick…just a tad thicker than 3/16”.)
https://hitzer.com/uploads/page/Hitzer_Sales_Shee ... 54_354.pdf


https://www.onedayglass.com/woodstove-glass/robax ... ram-glass/ (Note: It appears that the company OneDayGlass may not not offer Robax thicker than 1/8” thickness, but you can likely get thicker and elsewhere.)

NOTE:
It is important to know what thickness glass you have in your coal stove and buy glass the SAME thickness.

Kuma Stoves (?brand? Is likely Robax also based on thickness) 5mm thick in there wood and oil stoves. Read the following link to owners manual for their oil stoves and scroll down to the very bottom for comments on spider-webbing. https://kumastorage.blob.core.windows.net/content ... 207-18.pdf



That is some tough glass, for sure.
That Kuma glass is 5mm thick just like for Hitzer coal stoves. (Read page 26 of the manual here https://kumastorage.blob.core.windows.net/content ... urrent.pdf )

I believe the Kuma glass to also be Robax because Neoceram is only offered in thinner plates…which are likely nearly just as tough. Both types are like what Pyrex glass cookware is made from, so with Robax or Neoceram you get glass tough as nails and resistant to shock and thermal extremes/shock.

Also SBI (Stove Builders International) builds several brands of wood stoves including Drolet, Osburn, Englander, Century, and others) uses Robax glass in their stoves as well.

Read about Robax in SBI stoves here:
https://www.schott.com/en-us/products/r/robax/con ... ner-future

Blaze King stoves also used Schott Robax glass in their wood stoves here:

https://www.schott.com/en-us/products/r/robax/con ... ing-design

Hoytman wrote: ↑

Tue. Sep. 13, 2022 7:44 am

Schott Robax Glass



Hitzer coal stoves use Robax glass. (Scroll down to page 2 of brochure and expand to see kind of glass Hitzer used that is 5mm thick…just a tad thicker than 3/16”.)
https://hitzer.com/uploads/page/Hitzer_Sales_Shee ... 54_354.pdf


https://www.onedayglass.com/woodstove-glass/robax ... ram-glass/ (Note: It appears that the company OneDayGlass may not not offer Robax thicker than 1/8” thickness, but you can likely get thicker and elsewhere.)

NOTE:
It is important to know what thickness glass you have in your coal stove and buy glass the SAME thickness.

Kuma Stoves (?brand? Is likely Robax also based on thickness) 5mm thick in there wood and oil stoves. Read the following link to owners manual for their oil stoves and scroll down to the very bottom for comments on spider-webbing. https://kumastorage.blob.core.windows.net/content ... 207-18.pdf



That is some tough glass, for sure.
That Kuma glass is 5mm thick just like for Hitzer coal stoves. (Read page 26 of the manual here https://kumastorage.blob.core.windows.net/content ... urrent.pdf )

I believe the Kuma glass to also be Robax because Neoceram is only offered in thinner plates…which are likely nearly just as tough. Both types are like what Pyrex glass cookware is made from, so with Robax or Neoceram you get glass tough as nails and resistant to shock and thermal extremes/shock.

Also SBI (Stove Builders International) builds several brands of wood stoves including Drolet, Osburn, Englander, Century, and others) uses Robax glass in their stoves as well.

Read about Robax in SBI stoves here:
https://www.schott.com/en-us/products/r/robax/con ... ner-future

Blaze King stoves also used Schott Robax glass in their wood stoves here:

https://www.schott.com/en-us/products/r/robax/con ... ing-design

Thank you very much. That explanation of the micro-crazing is very informative and puts my mind at ease. I ordered my glass directly from an SAEY dealer and was wondering about the longevity being that it has these stress fractures after only 1 season. I now see that it is a common occurrence and does not affect the structural integrity of the glass. That was a big help. Thanks to everyone here.

Some folks here don’t care about the glass hazing up, and/or getting spider webbing. I do, however.

I clean my stove glass on the inside nearly every time I load/tend. If I don’t get to wipe the glass on the first tending each day, then I wipe it down at the second tend of the day. That is, I wipe it free of fly ash with a dry paper towel.

I actually clean the glass about once a week, sometimes once every two weeks with Rutland Glass Cleaner. I do this by first letting one door open to cool down, then the other door. I use aluminum foil to cover the opening while the door is open and the stove is burning to prevent gasses from coming into the home. Glass must be cool enough to touch with your hand and then use about a quarter sized amount of the glass cleaner on the glass, rub it in, then wipe dry with several dry paper towels. Sometimes it’s a little too warm still and the glass cleaner will try to dry out. Let glass cool more and add more liquid Rutland cleaner, then dry with clean paper towels. This stuff works great and is available at Tractor Supply stores and Rural King. https://rutland.com/products/stove-grill-hearth-c ... ss-cleaner

I’ve tried damp newspaper and wood ash, I’ve tried vinegar, Windex, etc. You like the Rutland the best and keep a couple bottles on hand all the time.


Three (3) years now and my glass is still crystal clear. This could be for one or two reasons or a couple combined.

1. I wipe free of fly ash daily.
2. I clean weekly as much as possible with Rutland glass cleaner.
3. My stove isn’t burned hot continuously like some peoples stoves are. My son ove often burns less than 300, some at 300-350, and maybe only a week or two, if that, at 400 during the few coldest days of the year.

I believe number 3 plays a bigger part in my glass not hazing or spider webbing a lot. Mine barely has some spider webbing near the glass bottom and that’s it.

All you can do is try these things with new glass.

Another big factor is making sure the coal is dry as well as the daily wiping of fly ash.

Eventually maybe mine won’t be crystal clear either, but I seem to be having better luck than many.

I bought a used Legacy TLC 2000 last year. The lady I bought it from said it was only used for 2 months the year before. The very first thing that I looked at was the glass. Beings that she only used it for 2 to 3 months, the glass shouldn't be showing any spiderwebs on the glass if it was not over fired.
It didn't so the next thing I did was looked at the grates. All looked fine so I bought it for a good price. That said, here's how I do my glass when burning coal, I clean mine about once every 2 to 3 weeks.
Step 1 I open my damper and vent my stove so that when I do step two I won't get a lot of carbon monoxide into the house.
Step 2 I open the door and let the glass cool down to where I can touch it with my bare hands, and it only feels warm.
Step 3 I put a barrier between my door and the floor, so that when I spray the glass with Rutland glass cleaner the carpet/floor doesn't get stained.
Step 4 I spray liberally The glass. I really soak it.
Step 5 After about 1 to 2 minuets I scrape the glass with one of those inspection type scrapers, until I get all the gunk removed. (sometimes this requires going over the glass 2 to 3 times were the tough spots are.
Step 5 After all of this is done, I close the door and reset my draft controls as needed.
This is when I burn coal. Now that things have tightened up, I will be burning more wood, which is a whole other ball game. I think I will be doing a whole lot of cleaning the glass if I want to monitor my wood burns, but that's another adventure.