"Stops" for Harman Shaker Mechanisms?

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Devil505
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Post Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 5:18 pm

Thinking it over, I don't like the idea of combustible cubes as stop blocks. I want to find masonry or metal blocks about the size of the pic below. (There's a small amount of play but not much)

If I have to cut them off a brick (or whatever) I will, but if I can just find something that'll work, I'm lazy! :lol:
(I actually want to make 3 sets anyway so any ideas where I can find such a thing??) Flat bottomed so they'll seat on the rail securely.
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Last edited by Devil505 on Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 7:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Devil505
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Post Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 5:20 pm

Adamiscold wrote::funny: Just make sure the wife is home before you start on the first one.
Lucky for me a normally type with just 2 fingers anyway! :lol: :devil:

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Adamiscold
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Post Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 5:24 pm

Lucky for me a normally type with just 2 fingers anyway! :lol: :devil:
So you are publicly admitting that you are a pecker. :P

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Adamiscold
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Post Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 5:27 pm

(I actually want to make 3 sets anyway so any ideas where I can find such a thing??)
I'm not sure if regular stone or brick will hold up to the temperature's of your stove but maybe any type or stone would work? Maybe some landscaping rocks would have one side of the thickness there for you? Once you get your size that you are going to use, why not glue them right in place?

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Devil505
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Post Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 5:28 pm

Adamiscold wrote:So you are publicly admitting that you are a pecker. :P
Are we really in public here??? :shock: :fear:

(If not........what are you wearing?) :inlove: :lol: :devil:
Last edited by Devil505 on Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 5:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Devil505
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Post Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 5:31 pm

Adamiscold wrote:Once you get your size that you are going to use, why not glue them right in place?
I want to be able to easily remove them for clean out when I want to dump the whole ash base.

(need additional copies for my daughter's & her sister-in-laws's stoves)

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farok
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Post Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 6:02 pm

You might find something at http://www.onlinemetals.com/ and they'll cut to length if you can find the right piece of metal to start with. Might be overboard for this, though.

Chris

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Devil505
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Post Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 7:42 pm

farok wrote:You might find something at http://www.onlinemetals.com/ and they'll cut to length if you can find the right piece of metal to start with. Might be overboard for this, though.
Thanks Chris but I'm not looking to spend $$$ on this project since a few rocks would do the trick.......If I wasn't to lazy to bend over & pick them up. :)

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CapeCoaler
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Post Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 10:41 pm

Brick chisel, hammer and a fire brick.
Or just find a tile/mason and have them wet saw to the proper size. It would be cheaper than the hospital/clinic!

Adam please use the linguistically proper 'pecker head' in future communications about the 'digitally impaired'.

http://www.peckerheadmotorcycleracing.com/

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Post Wed. Aug. 20, 2008 7:24 am

I'd like to gently suggest for beginners that instead of installing anything in the stove that one just learn to use short choppy strokes to shake down the fire and you'll find that works best. Maybe do it a few times without coal in the stove and observe the grates range of motion. The whole idea is to make the ash fallinto the pan and keep the coal on the grates. It's really not difficult. ;)

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Devil505
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Post Wed. Aug. 20, 2008 7:26 am

CapeCoaler wrote:Brick chisel, hammer and a fire brick.
Or just find a tile/mason and have them wet saw to the proper size. It would be cheaper than the hospital/clinic!
I actually have a masonry blade for my chop saw & have cut bricks many times. If I can't find what I'm looking for I will just cut a few. (These will not be in the fire so subject to very minimal heat in any case)

I'm not sure of the construction of other Harman coal burners but maybe this same idea would work with them??
If someone with a Mach series will let us know, that would be great. (just see if there is a rail above the ash pan but below the shaker grates that the connecting rod assembly travels above & that its range of motion could be restricted by a few simple stop blocks sitting on it)

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Devil505
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Post Wed. Aug. 20, 2008 8:59 am

....."so THATS what the inside of a coal stove looks like with a BIG ash pan!!I'm jealous."

It is a nice sized ash pan uglysquirrel!
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Post Wed. Aug. 20, 2008 9:14 am

I am still a fan of marking the outside of the stove rather than placing limiters inside of the stove.
Think of the thermometer on the stove pipe. normal/getting bad/Danger Will Robinson.
Never was a fan of governors on motors either, sometimes you just need that little extra bit.

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Devil505
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Post Wed. Aug. 20, 2008 9:25 am

CapeCoaler wrote:I am still a fan of marking the outside of the stove rather than placing limiters inside of the stove.
I hear you CapeCoaler & it usually is not a problem......BUT...every once in a while, (usually when I try to rush things) I have pushed/pulled the shaker handle to far &, if I'm lucky just dump allot of good coal, but if I'm not lucky, actually jam the grates open! To my way of thinking, these blocks will work fine for normal shake down but will prevent the possibility of going to far & dumping my fire.
(Think of how great this would be: If Harman would ship their stoves with a "Dump Lever" that would normally limit shaker grate travel but , when you throw a lever..allow you to dump! :idea: )

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Post Wed. Aug. 20, 2008 10:33 am

Do you know of any machine/fabricating shops in your area that may be able to sell you a couple pieces of scrap? You may be able to find some 1" square steel tubing at a hardware store or lumberyard.

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