slowing down the burn in Vigilant 2

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charlesosborne2002
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Post by charlesosborne2002 » Sat. Aug. 06, 2022 1:09 pm

Last year I took advice here for slowing down the burn--just don't slice the grates on the sides, and it did seem to work. I still seem to always get much more and much bigger slag or clinkers.

I understand the quality of coal affects this, but as I only have one source, I can't change that--so I try to work on the other elements. It has occurred to me that maybe I have always put in more coal than I need--somewhere around 30 lbs in the morning, then again at night. This fills the firebox up close to the side vents for the flamepath exit, and sloping upward in the back. I wonder if dropping this down a few inches would get a cleaner burn, as slag forms from very high heat that fuses the minerals rather than burning them. It would still put out heat, but not make lava inside?

Water also helps fuse the chunks, so when I add fuel, I refill the shuttle to air dry by the stove 12 hours for the next fill.

I suspect pea coal might burn better in this stove, here in KY, but that is not available--I am lucky to have nut coal smuggled in at Tractor Supply. I was lucky to 45 bags at last year's price.

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Sat. Aug. 06, 2022 3:11 pm

40 pounds is the rated capacity of the stove, so ideally 20 pounds at each loading, though you might need more for the increased heat.

Six inches is about a minimum depth to still hold a fire. Four inches with pea coal, but pea coal falls through the grate too easily. With nut it is much easier to drill down to the grate with a poker to speed up ignition of gases on a fresh load.

 
charlesosborne2002
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Post by charlesosborne2002 » Sun. Aug. 07, 2022 10:43 am

franco b wrote:
Sat. Aug. 06, 2022 3:11 pm
40 pounds is the rated capacity of the stove, so ideally 20 pounds at each loading, though you might need more for the increased heat.

Six inches is about a minimum depth to still hold a fire. Four inches with pea coal, but pea coal falls through the grate too easily. With nut it is much easier to drill down to the grate with a poker to speed up ignition of gases on a fresh load.
Franco, I am surprised by 40 lbs--I thought it was 50 lbs. 40 lbs would not go up as high as I have been loading (if you start when it is empty). I might try 6 or 8 inches deep to see if that works in warmer weather. On the other hand, the shallower depth would decrease draft (desirable), but maybe too much, since warm weather already lessens the rising heat effect...

Have you used wood in the shoulder months with this stove? I just bought a cord to use in fall and spring to take the chill, and let it go out at night. I have tried wood, which ideally should be a small fire in the back of the stove. Otherwise it smokes up the glass and tends to overheat if not watched. It seemed to do better with the under-air closed down and the doors cracked a bit, or all the way if it gets too hot.

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Sun. Aug. 07, 2022 11:38 am

Yes I have used wood. Two large chunks is all the fire box holds. Doors cracked but the glass still gets smoked.

I don't try for extended burn time and do use the bypass to keep stack temp. down. Stays reasonably clean. Only restrict air to keep griddle below 600 degrees.


 
woodandcoal
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Post by woodandcoal » Thu. Aug. 18, 2022 9:47 am

I have a Vigilant II and have been using it for over 10 years. I burn both wood and coal in it and being in Eastern PA only burn anthracite coal in it. The manual says 45 pounds pea or nut. Depending on the quality of coal I have actually mixed pea and nut together to get the fire going better. Also, I do not have a problem putting a piece or two of wood in it to get it drafting a little better. Once it gets going again I will go back to just coal. What I have found is when the stove starts to get too much fly ash in it I have to let it cool and give it a good clean. The corners always seem to clog up.
Usually twice a year I give it a really good vacuum. Once just before the heating season and in January or February when I can shut it down for two or three days. Has to be a warm spell so I can heat with my second stove in the front of the house. Important to take off the clean out plates and run that vacuum hose all the way through the back of the stove.
I have found this stove likes to run hot. Keeps the glass cleaner and it drafts better. I like to run the stove around 600 degrees (measured at the griddle) using an infrared thermometer. I always run with the damper down unless just getting it going.
Manual is attached

Attachments

vigilant-manual.pdf
.PDF | 2MB | vigilant-manual.pdf

 
charlesosborne2002
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Post by charlesosborne2002 » Thu. Aug. 18, 2022 11:02 am

franco b wrote:
Sun. Aug. 07, 2022 11:38 am
Yes I have used wood. Two large chunks is all the fire box holds. Doors cracked but the glass still gets smoked.

I don't try for extended burn time and do use the bypass to keep stack temp. down. Stays reasonably clean. Only restrict air to keep griddle below 600 degrees.
Franco, do you mean you use the bypass AND crack the front doors?

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Thu. Aug. 18, 2022 2:22 pm

charlesosborne2002 wrote:
Thu. Aug. 18, 2022 11:02 am
Franco, do you mean you use the bypass AND crack the front doors?
Yes but the doors are now lightly latched. One is warped a bit. Still some gaps. Draft .03 or .04 or higher. I start with big wood first and then kindling on top. Upside down fire.

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