quick manometer question
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does it go between the stove and the manual damper, or after the manual damper but before the barrow damper.
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It wants to feel what the stove feels, so as close to stove as possible
Over fire is even more accurate..
Over fire is even more accurate..
- steveleslieg
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On my chubby, from the stove up. manometer > manual pipe dampper > barometric damper
Winds steady at 15 MPH with gusts up to 30 MPH. Cameras were synchronized.
Please follow your coal stove manual and all state and local codes.
Click link below to view operation on my chubby.
Winds steady at 15 MPH with gusts up to 30 MPH. Cameras were synchronized.
Please follow your coal stove manual and all state and local codes.
Click link below to view operation on my chubby.
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So without the baro your draft would likely have been much higher with wind gusts? That’s my take…that the baro is keeping the mano from fluctuating higher than it was during that demonstration.
EDIT:
In this demonstration you can see how wind moving across the top of the chimney effects the draft and therefore the baro and you can see those effects on the manometer as well.
What I meant to say was without the barometric damper in place on that stove/chimney combination you likely would have seen the manometer fluctuate more that it did.
EDIT:
In this demonstration you can see how wind moving across the top of the chimney effects the draft and therefore the baro and you can see those effects on the manometer as well.
What I meant to say was without the barometric damper in place on that stove/chimney combination you likely would have seen the manometer fluctuate more that it did.
Last edited by Hoytman on Tue. Aug. 02, 2022 2:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- steveleslieg
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Hi Bill, strong opinions on barometric damper's, I wouldn't run coal without one.
manual machine needs no electronics and keeps fire @400 F
manual machine needs no electronics and keeps fire @400 F
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I've seen some of that debate on this forum.
I've only been burning coal for 3 years now and I haven't used a barometric damper yet simply because it was an added expense at the time and Dean at Hitzer told me it wasn't necessary to use a barometric damper with their stoves in most cases because of the thermostats on their stoves. That's different that running a stove like the Chubby where you have to maintain the air flow manually. So far so good with my stove and my experience. I do intend to try one at some point, if nothing but to try it for my own knowledge to see what difference it might make if any.
I don't really have a dog in that debate either way. I'm already burning the big Hitzer lower than advertised (which probably isn't the safest but also why I also use a manometer to monitor my draft and keep a couple CO detectors on hand) on a chimney that's inside the home and likely a tad short and I'm not sure any gains might be worth the added cost for me. Then again, the only way to know for sure is to buy one and see for myself knowing full that that if I change the stove and/or the chimney in any way, or any variable compared to what I have now, then results could change and I'd need to keep an open mind about it.
I'd like to buy one of those Chubby stoves sometime. I think I'd like a rear vent blower model for my needs. Of course, it would be rotated in and out with other stoves I'd like to try.
Since the Hitzer 354 has a built in damper, plus I have a secondary manual pipe damper in my stove pipe that mostly remains open. My manometer is placed about 6" above the stove breech and between both dampers because I didn't want to drill a hole in my stove.
I've only been burning coal for 3 years now and I haven't used a barometric damper yet simply because it was an added expense at the time and Dean at Hitzer told me it wasn't necessary to use a barometric damper with their stoves in most cases because of the thermostats on their stoves. That's different that running a stove like the Chubby where you have to maintain the air flow manually. So far so good with my stove and my experience. I do intend to try one at some point, if nothing but to try it for my own knowledge to see what difference it might make if any.
I don't really have a dog in that debate either way. I'm already burning the big Hitzer lower than advertised (which probably isn't the safest but also why I also use a manometer to monitor my draft and keep a couple CO detectors on hand) on a chimney that's inside the home and likely a tad short and I'm not sure any gains might be worth the added cost for me. Then again, the only way to know for sure is to buy one and see for myself knowing full that that if I change the stove and/or the chimney in any way, or any variable compared to what I have now, then results could change and I'd need to keep an open mind about it.
I'd like to buy one of those Chubby stoves sometime. I think I'd like a rear vent blower model for my needs. Of course, it would be rotated in and out with other stoves I'd like to try.
Since the Hitzer 354 has a built in damper, plus I have a secondary manual pipe damper in my stove pipe that mostly remains open. My manometer is placed about 6" above the stove breech and between both dampers because I didn't want to drill a hole in my stove.
- McGiever
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For those following along…Not all stoves would require a hole to be drilled for the baro probe. Some stoves already have the hole for the baro probe as manufactured.
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Examples?
EDIT:
I think KeyStoker is maybe one example??? At least one of KS stoves, I think, has a hole in the ash pan door. Maybe there are other examples that I am not aware of. I’m not as well versed in coal stoves as others here.
EDIT 2:
Wait! You said baro probe. Now I’m really confused. Do you mean manometer probe?
- McGiever
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- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
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Ahh yup manometer probe.
Some Harmons, well stokers anyways have port in viewing door for probe. At that location one is able to get “over the fire” draft readings which are the most relative readings. This port hole is threaded and a simple threaded plug seals it when not in use.
It’s a real bad thing when fan induced combustion air is adjusted into the Positive range…carbon monoxide is pressured out where it shouldn’t into the living space.
And sealing all seams and joints is not a substitute from not using a manometer as you really want that Negative draft balance.
Some may find have 2 ports to their liking…1 for “over the fire draft” at setup and then the 2nd in stove pipe for continuous monitoring. This saves having a hose/tubing always hanging at the door.
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- Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354
- Coal Size/Type: nut coal
- Other Heating: electric, wood, oil
Gotta love the valuable info we get from all the great forum members here. Thanks, Larry.