What a difference a day makes....
Burning wood in a hetzer 354
- oliver power
- Member
- Posts: 2970
- Joined: Sun. Apr. 16, 2006 9:28 am
- Location: Near Dansville, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: KEYSTOKER Kaa-2
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & 30-95, Vigilant (pre-2310), D.S. 1600 Circulator, Hitzer 254
- freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30299
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Oldie but definitely a goody--damn Scott, ya had to dig for that one--back when people used to hold close to each other!!!
- oliver power
- Member
- Posts: 2970
- Joined: Sun. Apr. 16, 2006 9:28 am
- Location: Near Dansville, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: KEYSTOKER Kaa-2
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & 30-95, Vigilant (pre-2310), D.S. 1600 Circulator, Hitzer 254
Figured it fit the situation Fred. Surprising how much a good nights sleep, and waking up all rested on a new day, can change everything. Normally for the good .freetown fred wrote: ↑Thu. Mar. 24, 2022 10:27 amOldie but definitely a goody--damn Scott, ya had to dig for that one--back when people used to hold close to each other!!!
-
- Member
- Posts: 6077
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 18, 2017 11:30 pm
- Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354
- Coal Size/Type: nut coal
- Other Heating: electric, wood, oil
This post is to clear up any confusion the original poster might have from my posts.
Below is an excerpt from my very first post in this thread and had some very carefully chosen key words I’d like to point out in black bold.
This post is to clear up any confusion the original poster might have from my posts.
Those bolded key words are what is important to distinguish my experience versus what others may have had. I chose those words carefully and used those words to signal fully acknowledging others experience could vary.
Most regulars here know full well my situation is very unique...using a stove nearly 3 times too big for my home. As far as I can tell I am the only person on this forum in that situation by choice. I can explain again why that is if need be for new members, just ask. Anyone with basic wood burning knowledge knows full well that wood needs to run hot...the pipe always needs to burn hotter than with coal to prevent too much creosote build up. Combine that with a stove too big for a home and it points to a very unique set of circumstances and challenges. I knew that before loading the first stick of wood. If you don’t like to experiment, that’s ok. I do. If your situation is such that you can run your stove in the same settings as coal, that’s great too.
I was trying to describe that my pre-epa stove seemed to burn wood cleaner than my first few attempts with the Hitzer using the thermostat. I also was implying I wanted to experiment more using the thermostat. Since my situation is unique, it won’t be like others experience. Those highlighted key words in my first post clearly pointed these differences out.
Below is an excerpt from my very first post in this thread and had some very carefully chosen key words I’d like to point out in black bold.
*Referred to what happened to me.Hoytman wrote: ↑Tue. Mar. 22, 2022 12:09 am...I realize many 354 owners have a need to burn their stoves much hotter than I do, but I said that to say this...
...I have a very strong suspicion that those who do burn hotter and want to burn wood...your stove is still going to likely require a severe adjustment to the ball chain and the stat dial setting in order to maintain a cleaner burn. That’s not written in stone, just my observation with 3 years burning my stove and having tried burning wood a number of times using the same dial settings as with nut coal.
... It is because of these heat cycles when burning wood, generally large indoor temp swings, you will need to make at least some dial setting adjustments (higher) and maybe even a severe chain adjustment because the stove will cycle much hotter from a cold home and as the wood burns down the temp will also swing way low depending on how often you feed the stove. *Trying to burn wood on the same coal burn dial settings caused the flap to close too soon and this creosotes up the stove glass, inside of the stove and the chimney.* Not good!! Can be dangerous causing chimney fires.
Of course, there can be many variables to this depending on how a person likes to heat their home...
This post is to clear up any confusion the original poster might have from my posts.
Those bolded key words are what is important to distinguish my experience versus what others may have had. I chose those words carefully and used those words to signal fully acknowledging others experience could vary.
Most regulars here know full well my situation is very unique...using a stove nearly 3 times too big for my home. As far as I can tell I am the only person on this forum in that situation by choice. I can explain again why that is if need be for new members, just ask. Anyone with basic wood burning knowledge knows full well that wood needs to run hot...the pipe always needs to burn hotter than with coal to prevent too much creosote build up. Combine that with a stove too big for a home and it points to a very unique set of circumstances and challenges. I knew that before loading the first stick of wood. If you don’t like to experiment, that’s ok. I do. If your situation is such that you can run your stove in the same settings as coal, that’s great too.
I was trying to describe that my pre-epa stove seemed to burn wood cleaner than my first few attempts with the Hitzer using the thermostat. I also was implying I wanted to experiment more using the thermostat. Since my situation is unique, it won’t be like others experience. Those highlighted key words in my first post clearly pointed these differences out.