Hitzer 50-93 coal gas

 
waytomany?s
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Post by waytomany?s » Sun. Dec. 26, 2021 5:31 pm

Lightning wrote:
Sun. Dec. 26, 2021 10:10 am
I used to purposely induce puff backs for the hell of it.. Here's a little video of my fun lol

I did that early this year with my Mark II. Except it wasn't on purpose and I was bent over in front of the ashpan. At least it was all wood ash that I ate. The coal ash is a lot coarser to swallow dry.


 
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BlackBetty06
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Post by BlackBetty06 » Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 7:49 pm

craig1980 wrote:
Sun. Dec. 26, 2021 9:48 am
Several of you guys hit the nail on the head- thanks for all the replies. That's exactly what I'm asking. Sometimes after I shake the ash and close everything up, normally the biometric door is not open as yet. Then I'm holding my breath waiting in anticipation as there is very little flame as yet, but once the door opens and lets air in I've never hear anything pop. The coal ignites and I breathe a sigh of relief LOL. Having air come from the bottom makes alot of sense. Thinking about what was mentioned maybe the gases are pushed up away from the coal flame from the bottom air door and out the chimney, but when the hopper door is opened it forces air down pusing the gas into the flame and igniting it causing the "mini explosion" does this make sense? And yes fred you got a great memory. I run nut coal only. Lehigh at the moment.
The cause is ZERO over fire air in the stove. Perfect scenario for a puff with good fresh coal and no air movement over the fire to
1) have the proper air fuel mixture to burn the gases
2) wash the gases away until the fire is hot enough to ignite them.

I’ve had many puffs after tending when the bimetallic opens. Usually about 20- 30 min after tending. Sitting upstairs you hear woof and then ting ting as the bi metallic flaps around. Shortly there after the dust is at ground level instead of floating in the light of the room. I cured this by cracking the load door and setting a timer to go back and close it. Shouldn’t have to do that but it’s what works for me. Other than that burns great.

 
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BlackBetty06
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Post by BlackBetty06 » Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 7:51 pm

waytomany?s wrote:
Sun. Dec. 26, 2021 5:31 pm
I did that early this year with my Mark II. Except it wasn't on purpose and I was bent over in front of the ashpan. At least it was all wood ash that I ate. The coal ash is a lot coarser to swallow dry.
Lol this made me laugh!

 
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Post by Hoytman » Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 8:47 pm

BlackBetty06 wrote:
Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 7:51 pm
Lol this made me laugh!
Yeah...I think I broke a rib. :lol:


I see where cracking the load door helped. Now try it with the ash pan door open first.
Last edited by Hoytman on Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 8:52 pm, edited 2 times in total.

 
waytomany?s
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Post by waytomany?s » Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 8:48 pm

BlackBetty06 wrote:
Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 7:51 pm
Lol this made me laugh!
Wasn't funny at the time, but I wish I could have seen myself, probably still be laughing. :clap: my beard was full of ash, could feel it all over my face, cloud of ashes all around.

 
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Post by Hoytman » Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 8:52 pm

waytomany?s wrote:
Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 8:48 pm
Wasn't funny at the time, but I wish I could have seen myself, probably still be laughing. :clap: my beard was full of ash, could feel it all over my face, cloud of ashes all around.
Not good! :lol:

 
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Post by Hoytman » Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 9:19 pm

Take a look at the two videos I posted here... Post by Hoytman - Harman Mark 3 ... with regard to air bypassing the fuel load becoming secondary air.

I think you will find that if opening the load door helps before opening the hopper door, then slowly opening the ash pan door before slowly opening the hopper door should also help because it increases the stove draft.

I suspect not everyone with a hopper stove has this puffing problem and I have to wonder if it isn’t completely related to chimney draft. Maybe I am all wet.

I just know that the 50-93 and the 354 use I use identical grate frames...which require a loose fit in or to make them removable. Loose fit means gaps and gaps mean by-pass air from underneath and over top of the fuel load.

EDIT:
Please don’t misunderstand these statements to be fact. I’m just trying to explain what I believe is happening from the videos I have posted. Maybe someone else has a better explanation that makes more sense.


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 9:26 pm

Possibly, I know my chimney will suk the tits off a wart-hog!!! :) Billy, those gaps shouldn't affect anything.

 
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Post by franco b » Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 9:38 pm

I suspect the bi metallic on the Hitzer is not sensitive enough with a magnet holding it closed too hard or too long. At tending time it should already be open a bit as the fire ashes up and have enough air through the coal bed to light the gasses. I would suggest a paper clip on the flap so it never fully closes.

On the Vigilant 2 the flap hangs open about a 1/16 inch until strong draft closes it.

Franco Belge stoves have a small light flap within a larger flap which hardly ever closes.and is very responsive to small changes. Never had a puff on all three sizes I have used. Blue flames light off in about a minute with the only air coming through the coal bed.

Freetown Fred leaves the ash door vents open a bit all the time.

 
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Post by Hoytman » Wed. Jan. 19, 2022 9:41 pm

All you hopper guys make me not want a hopper stove. :lol:



I would like to see pictures of one of those FB stoves, especially those flaps you describe. Sounds interesting.

 
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BlackBetty06
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Post by BlackBetty06 » Thu. Jan. 20, 2022 6:26 pm

Side note, does anyone with a hopper stove ever actually see the hopper level drop on its own without shaking? I have never seen it with mine in 7 years of burning. I really let it go one time and the entire coal bed was burned out except directly under the hopper. I opened the hopper up and it had maybe dropped an inch at the most.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Jan. 20, 2022 7:03 pm

Correct me if I'm wrong but In my mind the hopper isn't there to automatically feed the fire as the fuel in the bed burns up. I'm thinking the hopper is more to "prepare" the next load for burning by preheating it and start baking out hydrocarbon gases. This way the load in the hopper is that much further ahead when its time to be delivered to the fuel bed for combustion... and that happens when the grates are shaken. Just my opinion :D

 
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mntbugy
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Post by mntbugy » Thu. Jan. 20, 2022 7:29 pm

My magazine levels don't go down till after shaking. Maybe settles an inch or two at most.

Magazines that hold 50# or 15#. The bridge of the firebed keeps it from falling.

1874-1901 heaters.

 
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BlackBetty06
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Post by BlackBetty06 » Thu. Jan. 20, 2022 7:50 pm

Ok just making sure I wasn’t missing something. Just a marketing ploy then i guess.

 
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mntbugy
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Post by mntbugy » Thu. Jan. 20, 2022 7:54 pm

Don't own a newer square stove with a hopper. D S is non hopper heater. No input on square firebox hopper/magazine.


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