Well, you have gone down swinging - but I am thinking this Yukon just isn't going to rise to the challenge of heating your house with coal. You might be able to make some incremental improvements, but it will likely always be a frustrating experience. Hopefully you are able to work through the coal you bought.Khan1969 wrote: ↑Wed. Jan. 05, 2022 2:58 pmOk, so it's official, when it hits zero with high winds I loose about 8 degrees in 7 hours and even with the induction blower cover cut back to half open I'm still getting fairly large klinkers any less than half open I can't get enough heat to keep the house warm.
Yukon Big Jack - can't seem to get coal to work
- Rob R.
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- McGiever
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- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
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What you’re doing isn’t working sadly.
Yup up to 20 pages here now and no joy.
Yup up to 20 pages here now and no joy.
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Whaddya mean no joy? Just think of all the extra hours of sleep he got with the extended burn times! And all the wood he saved! So what he found out coal only works down to a certain temp. He learned lots, I'd argue knowledge IS joy.
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I would try Lightning's suggestion of removing the extra bricks. The low stack temperature shows the stove can take a bigger fire. Ash buildup along the sides can be cleared from above. Perhaps drill a series of holes where the bricks sat. Try one side to see if there is a noticeable difference.
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Here's a pic of my first coal fire in my Big Jack. Way too shallow I know.
Here's a view inside the firebox if anyone's curious. I have a question for you far more experienced coal burners. What has more effect on the output of a coal fire, the square footage of the firebed or the depth or a combination of both? When I have the extra bricks lining the sides I can easily have a 12" deep coal bed when I fill it up. If I were to run without any bricks I'd have a maximum of 7" on the sides and could probably pile it up to 12" in the center. I'm sure that would put out more heat but I think effective ash removal would be a problem.
Thanks for any input.
Looking back I wish I'd have known about the qualities of coal and installed a DS or Hitzer furnace when we built our house. I think a dedicated coal burner is a better solution if coal is the primary fuel.
Lee
I burned coal for two weeks without extra fire bricks and I ended up with dead spots along both sides of the grate. I'm not sure how one would clear the ash on the sides from above. If any body has any solutions I'm all ears. I'd like to get more output from mine as well when it's below zero.Here's a view inside the firebox if anyone's curious. I have a question for you far more experienced coal burners. What has more effect on the output of a coal fire, the square footage of the firebed or the depth or a combination of both? When I have the extra bricks lining the sides I can easily have a 12" deep coal bed when I fill it up. If I were to run without any bricks I'd have a maximum of 7" on the sides and could probably pile it up to 12" in the center. I'm sure that would put out more heat but I think effective ash removal would be a problem.
Thanks for any input.
Looking back I wish I'd have known about the qualities of coal and installed a DS or Hitzer furnace when we built our house. I think a dedicated coal burner is a better solution if coal is the primary fuel.
Lee
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Can you remove that grate and replace it with the one in the link. I did that with my first Hot Blast furnace and it worked great!
https://www.amazon.com/US-Stove-G42-Large-Logwood ... 674&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/US-Stove-G42-Large-Logwood ... 674&sr=8-4
- Lightning
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Yeah I forgot that has a stationary grate in it, right? He also needs an ash sword to slide in on top the grate to riddle ash. That worked awesome with my Clayton.. I think its even better than shakable grates.
- Lightning
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Here's a fun read when you get a chance.. its all about my adventures in riddling. Check out the V shaped firebox.
Riddle Method for Ash Clearing
Riddle Method for Ash Clearing
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- Member
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- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Yukon Big Jack
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definately major dead spots on the sides and for some reason thats where the klinkers seem to get the biggest and gather, I've cut the air flow back and we're still burning a 120 pounds a day now in the subzero temps and at night we're loosing 5-7 degrees which takes most of the day to rebuild only to loose again at night. Now granted I have a extremely old drafty house. But we never had these problems with wood except when the fire went out.lee192233 wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 06, 2022 2:08 amHere's a pic of my first coal fire in my Big Jack. Way too shallow I know.
coal fire 1.jpg
I burned coal for two weeks without extra fire bricks and I ended up with dead spots along both sides of the grate. I'm not sure how one would clear the ash on the sides from above. If any body has any solutions I'm all ears. I'd like to get more output from mine as well when it's below zero.
Here's a view inside the firebox if anyone's curious.
Fire box view.jpg
I have a question for you far more experienced coal burners. What has more effect on the output of a coal fire, the square footage of the firebed or the depth or a combination of both? When I have the extra bricks lining the sides I can easily have a 12" deep coal bed when I fill it up. If I were to run without any bricks I'd have a maximum of 7" on the sides and could probably pile it up to 12" in the center. I'm sure that would put out more heat but I think effective ash removal would be a problem.
Thanks for any input.
Looking back I wish I'd have known about the qualities of coal and installed a DS or Hitzer furnace when we built our house. I think a dedicated coal burner is a better solution if coal is the primary fuel.
Lee
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- Member
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Tue. Nov. 09, 2021 10:37 am
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Yukon Big Jack
- Coal Size/Type: Nut / Anthracite
I have 2 hardened steel rods that have been ground to fit between the slots in the grates and cut through them quite nicely. Removes the ash from the top quickly and effectively and doesn't require my Arthridic ass getting down on the floor.