Hitzer 254 or 55? Any other options?

charlesosborne2002 · Post by **charlesosborne2002** » Tue. Sep. 21, 2021 6:55 pm

Hoytman wrote: ↑
Fri. Jun. 11, 2021 12:39 pm
Most modern EPA wood stoves direct most of the heat to the top of the stove whether they be secondary air tube stoves or catalytic stoves. A few like modern Harmon’s, no longer made, were down draft models direct exhaust up then down the back, and then back up the back of the stove and out. Vermont castings are similar, yet both have cook plates.

Buck stove, Lopi, Englander, Quadra-fire, Regency, Jotul, Drolet/Osburn, Blaze King etc., etc., etc., many direct most of the heat to the top of the stove and give plenty of heat on top to cook off of.

When I find the video of the Lopi/Travis Industries President cooking his homemade chili recipe on a Lopi stove I will post it.

Hoytman, when I raise the griddle on my Vigilant 2 stove to fill coal, the coal bed is directly under the stove top, so it is very hot for cooking. When the baffle is closed to direct venting from out the back, there are side ports in the upper firebox on each side, so that the fumes are drawn by the chimney draft down the stove sides and up the back to the flue.

This replaced an extremely clean EPA wood stove that was not very hot on top; above the secondary air tubes was a baffle with asbestos shield to keep heat in the firebox and burn the smoke (which you could see, orange rather than yellow). The firebox was separated from the stove's top and the flames were not right under the stove top, unlike my Vigilant 2. There was no direct vent baffle mode--only indirect. It was an Iron Strike model Striker S160. I kept a tea kettle on it, but it never boiled. The sides and back had built-on heat shields you could touch.

Hoytman · Post by **Hoytman** » Tue. Sep. 21, 2021 8:10 pm

I’m aware of how the V2 works. Nice stoves. Worth having if you can find one at the right price. I watched a left over in a stove shop for 5-6 years. They never would drop the price. Then one day it was gone and sold for less than my offer. I reminded the stove shop guy of my offer and he was upset that he sold it for less. He wasn’t as upset as me. LOL!

I’ve glanced at Iron Strike stoves old website, but since they weren’t among the most efficient stoves at the time I was researching so I never gave them much more consideration and didn’t study or familiarize myself with their operation. They seem like they are well built though.

The Harmons are good stoves. One of their last wood models was a down draft that worked similar to your V2 and like your V2 could be cooled off of. The front part of the top rotated up for top loading or dropping in a grilling grate, a super nice feature, and that top itself could be cooked on. They also made a stove that looked like the VC with top load that could be cooled in like the VC, and they made the coal stove SF150 as well that could be cooled in. Now that is a nice little stove and a model I wish Legacy would bring back.

I’m not quite sure what you are getting at though. Unless you are just pointing out that stove model didn’t get hot enough to cook off of. A stove like that, whether older or newer is less common. Most wood stoves built today get hot enough to cook off of...secondary air tube stoves or CAT stoves.

farok · Post by **farok** » Sat. Nov. 27, 2021 12:40 pm

Well, we finally made it to KY. I was able to find a local supplier for bagged anthracite, which is good! Higher in cost than NJ, but we're farther from the coal fields, as well, so to be expected. Anyway, I've still not decided on the stove to get. Here are my current thoughts - any comments or suggestions?

As a follow-up, the space we're putting it in isn't the biggest. There's about a 4 foot space between the door and window on the wall it would need to be placed at, so clearances are a big factor. Also, the room is only 12 feet wide, so anything that sticks out too far into the room will be a non-starter, as well. Top venting seems to be VERY important since the stove can tuck in closer to the wall, especially with proper wall protection.

First, the current no-go's: The Heco 420 and Hitzer 55 are out based on size and clearances alone. The Hitzer 30-95 is appealing, but is out based on it being a rear vent and sticking into the room too far. The Hitzer 254 and the Legacy TLC 2000 are possibly too wide to allow drapes on the windows, so they are possibly out, though they seem like nice stoves - depends on whether the wife needs drapes on the window. The Ashley Circulator sounds like it could also work, but I've seen reports of it wearing out on here due to light materials. That and in my humble opinion, it's UGLY, so it's off the table.

DS Comfort Max 75: I like its design a lot, and while not being warm enough to cook on, I suspect it'd work out nicely for everything else. It has a top vent and has tighter clearances (sides in particular) for the space I'm considering, as well. However, as I assume the sides don't heat up as much due to the clearances listed, does this mean the stove won't heat as efficiently as the 254, 30-95, or TLC 2000?

Coal Chubby: Is a Chubby Sr. top vent worth considering? It would fit the space, and does have an eyelet on the top for cooking. Everyone that has one seems to love them, though they seem to be less efficient than some of the others I'm considering. How large is the top door, for potential wood fires? How big is the burn pot? I'm wondering how small a log would need to be cut to fit in for burning wood when we have it available?

Keystoker: They make a couple of possible stoves. The Deep Box appears to have a warm air jacket, so that'd be a no-go on the cooking front, but the clearances would make it work in the space we have. The hand-fired hopper model also appears to be worth considering, even if a rear flue, due to the side clearances. Any feedback on these two stoves?

Ashland Coal-EZ 50: I also found the Coal-EZ 50 that I'm considering, but I can't find any information on clearances. Otherwise, it too seems like a nice choice.

Thoughts on any of these?

Thanks again all for the insights so far!

-Chris

Twisted shackle · Post by **Twisted shackle** » Sat. Nov. 27, 2021 2:11 pm

Keystoker will make a deep box with a cook top. I have one. Call keystoker and talk to Don. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SFcGyTrncCbJ6CKf8

farok · Post by **farok** » Sat. Nov. 27, 2021 2:44 pm

Twisted Shackle,

Wow that's neat! Definitely worth considering! How hot does the cook top get? Fried eggs, perhaps?

Any other comments on the stove? Likes/dislikes? Have you burned wood in it in the shoulder months?

Chris

Twisted shackle · Post by **Twisted shackle** » Sat. Nov. 27, 2021 4:08 pm

Chris, let me start off by saying I love my stove. The stove has both a blower fan and a bi-metallic thermostat. The cook top is the top of the fire box. I use a cast iron grille and set it on top of the fire box. Turn up the thermostat to open the flapper door in the rear and you are frying eggs and making pancakes. Yes I have burned wood in the stove, however because wood is such a pain I idle the stove down and use
windowstats to control the interior temp during the shoulder months. I say that owning a tree farm that supplies oak for bourbon barrels in KY. Mine is a deep box 70 heating 2100sf of well insulated post and beam 2 story. I live just across the river from KY in Indiana. Did I say I love my stove? If I can answer any questions you have let me know .
Mike

Hoytman · Post by **Hoytman** » Sat. Nov. 27, 2021 8:04 pm

If the 254 won’t work, the TLC 2000 and the Comfortmax 75 will also be too large for sure...they are bother bigger than the 254.

The 254 can be burned off of one grate. I’m burning. Huge Comfortmax 75 style stove, my Hitzer 354 off of one grate right now. So, the 254 can hit nearly the same lows as the 30-95, but still be too vent and off plenty of heat.

Based off of what you’re describing, and the 30-95 won’t work because of venting...it also might still be too large. Sounds like the Chubby is sized more for your needs and offers top vent.

I’d be comparing the Chubby, 30-95, 254, and Ashland based in the stoves you mentioned. The others are too big. The 55...size wise and low burn wise, is close to the 254, 30-95 stoves...all three close to each other.

If drapes are causing a clearance issue, then it will be an issue for nearly every stove. These stoves can run cool, but can also get HOT if allowed to run. Clearances are for extreme heat situations. If code is important to you...that is understood. Unless you have the room it’s hard to have your cake and eat it too. In other words, something has to give. LOL! If the 55 is a serious Hester when called for, as is the Comfortmax75. You can add stand-alone shields behind or between any stove to lessen clearances. You can call Dean at Hitzer and shields can be welded to the stoves. They’ll do about anything you want.

It sounds like the small Ashland and the Chubby would be your best options for space and clearance. Some question the quality of build of the Ashland. I have no clue. Their weight seems light to me, but their grates are made heavily and the have a thermostat. The Chubby build, design, durability, and reputation speaks for itself and has a great name.

I’ll have to re-read your space requirements of your home, but if a 30-95, 254, 55 or a Chubby won’t work are too big or clearances won’t work, then certainly a TLC and Comfortmax won’t either as they are bigger yet.

Have you looked as DS 14 series? I still think they are bigger than a Chubby, Chubby Jr., and the Ashland. Myself, I wouldn’t be afraid of the Ashland small stoves.

The Heco 420 and 55 are a world apart in my mind. That 420 is a big stove...strictly talking heat output. 55 is no slouch, but I doubt it can match the 420 cookstove.

Hounds51 · Post by **Hounds51** » Sun. Nov. 28, 2021 9:29 am

farok wrote: ↑
Sat. Nov. 27, 2021 12:40 pm
Well, we finally made it to KY. I was able to find a local supplier for bagged anthracite, which is good! Higher in cost than NJ, but we're farther from the coal fields, as well, so to be expected. Anyway, I've still not decided on the stove to get. Here are my current thoughts - any comments or suggestions?

As a follow-up, the space we're putting it in isn't the biggest. There's about a 4 foot space between the door and window on the wall it would need to be placed at, so clearances are a big factor. Also, the room is only 12 feet wide, so anything that sticks out too far into the room will be a non-starter, as well. Top venting seems to be VERY important since the stove can tuck in closer to the wall, especially with proper wall protection.

First, the current no-go's: The Heco 420 and Hitzer 55 are out based on size and clearances alone. The Hitzer 30-95 is appealing, but is out based on it being a rear vent and sticking into the room too far. The Hitzer 254 and the Legacy TLC 2000 are possibly too wide to allow drapes on the windows, so they are possibly out, though they seem like nice stoves - depends on whether the wife needs drapes on the window. The Ashley Circulator sounds like it could also work, but I've seen reports of it wearing out on here due to light materials. That and in my humble opinion, it's UGLY, so it's off the table.

DS Comfort Max 75: I like its design a lot, and while not being warm enough to cook on, I suspect it'd work out nicely for everything else. It has a top vent and has tighter clearances (sides in particular) for the space I'm considering, as well. However, as I assume the sides don't heat up as much due to the clearances listed, does this mean the stove won't heat as efficiently as the 254, 30-95, or TLC 2000?

Coal Chubby: Is a Chubby Sr. top vent worth considering? It would fit the space, and does have an eyelet on the top for cooking. Everyone that has one seems to love them, though they seem to be less efficient than some of the others I'm considering. How large is the top door, for potential wood fires? How big is the burn pot? I'm wondering how small a log would need to be cut to fit in for burning wood when we have it available?

Keystoker: They make a couple of possible stoves. The Deep Box appears to have a warm air jacket, so that'd be a no-go on the cooking front, but the clearances would make it work in the space we have. The hand-fired hopper model also appears to be worth considering, even if a rear flue, due to the side clearances. Any feedback on these two stoves?

Ashland Coal-EZ 50: I also found the Coal-EZ 50 that I'm considering, but I can't find any information on clearances. Otherwise, it too seems like a nice choice.

Thoughts on any of these?

Thanks again all for the insights so far!

-Chris

I have a Legacy TLC 2000 and love it. I modified it with higher firebox brick, so I can get quite a bit more of a coal bed. They have really tight clearances to walls, but you really cant cook on top of the stove. We bought the grill option, but it is kind of a joke. So we bought a couple of those basket grills and put our steaks directly on the coal bed. Man oh man do they get good. As far as top side cooking, you will have hell to pay if you are going to try and fry eggs or something like that. Maybe a dutch oven without legs if you want to slow cook might work. We do have part of an old asbestos shingle on the top so that when we loose power we can keep our coffee pot on it to keep it warm. I do have a old tea kettle with the top off. which I fill about every other day to add humidity to the room. But all in all you can't really cook on the top of a TLC 2000. At least not with coal that is.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sun. Nov. 28, 2021 10:22 am

I don't think ya can REALLY cook on top of most stoves except kitchen ranges. Like H said, even with the special ordered grill--it's more or less a joke--I firmly believe that ALL stoves are made to do exactly what they're made to do, no matter what type of mods are tried. H, I like the Dutch oven idea.

Homesteader · Post by **Homesteader** » Sun. Nov. 28, 2021 11:27 am

freetown fred wrote: ↑
Sun. Nov. 28, 2021 10:22 am
I don't think ya can REALLY cook on top of most stoves except kitchen ranges. Like H said, even with the special ordered grill--it's more or less a joke--I firmly believe that ALL stoves are made to do exactly what they're made to do, no matter what type of mods are tried. H, I like the Dutch oven idea.

My flathead MII does a nice job of cooking stews and sauces.

.JPG | 78.5KB | Coal Cooking.jpg

LouNY · Post by **LouNY** » Sun. Nov. 28, 2021 11:55 am

I have a Hitzer insert and it is a good heater.
If I had the room I would not hesitate to seriously consider the DS Herco cook stove,
especially with cooking being a consideration, burn wood or coal and cook or bake while heating.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sun. Nov. 28, 2021 12:57 pm

Understood H--if I were to put a stew pot on my HITZER in the early AM--she'd probably be nice & hot & ready to eat come supper time. With a real kitchen stove, I'd bet around 1 1/2--2 hrs & I'd be chowin down!!!

Looks tasty my friend!!!

Hoytman · Post by **Hoytman** » Sun. Nov. 28, 2021 1:02 pm

At 165F STT my 354 would never get any meat up to proper temps.

warminmn · Post by **warminmn** » Sun. Nov. 28, 2021 1:08 pm

There are a few that I guess will cook ok but the rest are jjust heat stoves. Getting a camping stove for emergency use probably makes more sense for most situations.

That said, if you have firebricks in a stove you can lay rods on top of the brick, put a rack or pan on top of that. its a lot of messing around though.

Twisted shackle · Post by **Twisted shackle** » Sun. Nov. 28, 2021 1:28 pm

Pic's of my cook top.

1, overall view
2, stove at idle cook top 300 degrees,
3, thermostat turned up and flapper door open. Cook top 650 degrees and rising.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jztqXiEURWrCHvyA6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Uq8o8nUKdp3WRDfJ6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NWENo6qFZxPfXCE36