Everything look ok? Hitzer 30-95

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fpappal
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30-95

Post by fpappal » Sun. Feb. 21, 2021 7:50 pm

:!: lipI finally installed my new to me hitzer in the basement of my new house. Before I even attempt to fire it up does this look correct? I followed the instruction manual. The horizontal pipe going into the thimble is a little steep. I was thinking about putting the stove on 3 inch blocks to equal out the pitch just a bit. Or is this fine as is? Thank you.

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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Sun. Feb. 21, 2021 8:18 pm

A tee would be better where it hooks to the stove for cleanout of ash in that spot, but if you keep an eye on the ash buildup in that spot it will be ok.

The angle is fine but is there anything flammable in the area where it goes into the chimney? (the surround area) If so then a section of 8" pipe could be spaced an inch around the 6" in that area for a heat shield around the pipe. I cant see how you have the pipe sealed in the chimney.

There should be 3 screws attaching each pipe together. i cant see if you did that or not. If there is any lumber in the wall behind the stove I'd put a piece of tin of cement board there. Lots of info on here about heat shields so i wont go into detail on that. I'd probably put a heat shield on the ceiling too. if thats paper covered insulation (it looks like loose but not sure) that might be a problem. You can spend as much or little on shields as you want they all do the same thing.

 
Holdencoal
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Post by Holdencoal » Sun. Feb. 21, 2021 8:44 pm

Did the insulator miss the last row? You won’t get much heat transfer upstairs with all that rockwool installed. Your basement is going to be warm.


 
fpappal
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30-95

Post by fpappal » Mon. Feb. 22, 2021 7:40 am

Thanks for the replies.
1. There is a clay thimble where it goes through wall. The framing is more than the minimum Hitzer recommends, I think 8 inches from the pipe. I filled in the gap around the pipe with insulation.

2. I originally had a heat shield up but I didn't like the look of it. I used cement board with ceramic spacers. I called Hitzer and they told me as long as I was 27 inches from the sheetrock it would be fine. Does this forum agree with that?

3. The insulation is actually only for sound. Rockwool makes it, called safe and sound. My house is a ranch and the sound that traveled through the floor was extreme. This stuff made a huge difference. The heat is actually more for the basement than anywhere else. 2000 sq ft and half is fixed up. Rockwool is rated to withstand temps up to 2150 degrees.

4. I will look into a T for back of stove.

5. I still need to install the screws in each pipe section.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Feb. 22, 2021 8:04 am

Looks real good F--yep, you'll find that "T" helpful!! :)

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Tue. Feb. 23, 2021 9:45 pm

You won't get a lot of heat off the back of the 30-95 with it's built in angled heat shield. I'd use T's instead of 90's for clean out purposes. Put 3 screws in each pipe joint. Personally, I'd raise the stove up using 3" patio blocks. Not only will your pipe be a little straighter, but you won't be bending over as far at tending time. I'd put a thimble plate around the pipe, up against the flue. The stove pipe should go into the flue just far enough to meet the inner wall of the vertical flue. Make sure the stove pipe isn't going too far in, touching the furthest wall of vertical flue. if you have a big enough puff back explosion, the stove pipe can come out of the flue. You might want a little wire / cable / etc. for preventing that possibility. Leave the manual damper wide open. and your pipe joints are in the right direction. Good Luck. It's a great little stove. Your clearances look good. If running your fan, low is all you need. The magnet inside the flapper door may need adjusting. With stove mass up to operating temperature, when the flapper door pops off the magnet, it should be open 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. you want the magnet to barely pull on the flapper door. All it's meant for is to keep the ting, ting, tinging of the flapper door to a minimum.

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