Coalpail.com Forum

Hi there fellow coal burners.

I recently acquired a Crane 404 and I’m beginning to install it in my workshop. The first issue I am having is how to connect the stove pipe to the stove. The flange on the stove measures 6” in outer diameter and 5 3/8” in inner diameter. Neither end of a standard section of 6” stove pipe will fit on this flange. Do I need a custom made section of stove pipe for this? Also is it important to have the crimped end facing the stove? Any replies greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Don't matter on which way pipe is facing with coal. Try double crimping,somebody ya know should have a crimping tool!!.

Hammer the seam on the uncrimped end of the pipe flat and it will probably fit.

Try using a stove collar adapter...
A good stove shop should be able to roll up a properly sized adapter...

I have the same size flue outlet on my stove. The smooth female end of a tee fit perfect and snug, perfect for a baro install.

Thank you for all of your input.

I went with a stove collar as was recommended in one of the replies above. The inside and outside dimensions of the pipe coming from the stove we’re too extreme and did not allow me to safely attach a section of stove pipe to the stove. I was told by a person who works at a stove shop that pre - 1985 stoves oftentimes could not accommodate later made stove pipe and that an adapter would need to be fabricated. Please note the attached photo of the custom collar with integrated damper.

The next item I need help with is the installation of the glass. The broken glass panels (three of them) and metal mesh were removed before I bought the stove. I had new ceramic glass panels made up and now I’m ready to install them. I’m not sure though if I need furnace rope and I’m not sure what goes in first; the metal mesh or the ceramic glass? I was told that the mesh would have to go in first on top of the rope. What is the purpose of the mesh? Please note the photo of one of the glass panel locations.

Thank you for all of your help and I look forward to your responses.

PS - is Doug Crane still around?

That’s a really nice adapter. Could you share who made that for you? Someone in the future might need it.

Crane 404 Owners Manual

Thank you Holden for the useful information. Apparently I need window gasket. I wonder though about the placement of the metal mesh.

The folks at Twin City Sheet Metal in Brewer Maine made the adapter. (I installed the damper) It’s well made and pretty rugged. They have a website.

Twin City Sheet Metal
26 Coffin Ave, Brewer, ME 04412
(207) 990-5605

Metal mesh in no longer a requirement of UL or FM and does not need to be reinstalled when using the latest UL tested wood coal stove glass. Any stove shop should have it.

Is the adapter galvanized / zinc or stainless?

I assumed it was galvanized but I’ll have to check with Twin City to know for sure. I’ll shoot them an email and post when I hear back.

If it’s galvanized and or zinc it might off gas due to the flue temps and be dangerous to breath in.

Stovepipe manufacturers don't want galvanized pipe on solid fuel appliances. There must be a reason.

The adapter come to find out was in fact made from galvanized steel. After consulting with the fabricator and doing some research on the internet, I’m not too concerned about using a short section of galvanized stove pipe in my setup.

I recently purchased a Dwyer Mark II series 25 manometer to measure draft in my setup. I’m getting ready to install it however I neglected to order a probe. I understand that a section of brake line has in some cases been used as the probe. Can someone comment on their probe setup for measuring draft.

As usual thanks for all your responses.

Just heard back from the vendor - Dwyer. I was concerned about the size of the brake line opening.

“ We offer what's called a terminal tube for this purpose. It's part number A-344. Attached is a photo of it. It's intended to work with flexible tubing like our A-201 latex tubing. The size of the hole doesn't really matter in terms of measuring pressure.“

I also asked about the optimal position of the probe when inserted into the stove pipe -

“ Inserting it into the middle is a great place to take the measurement. This way the velocity will be closer to the true velocity through the pipe.”

Blizzard1 wrote: ↑

Wed. Mar. 10, 2021 4:05 pm

Thank you for all of your input.

I went with a stove collar as was recommended in one of the replies above. The inside and outside dimensions of the pipe coming from the stove we’re too extreme and did not allow me to safely attach a section of stove pipe to the stove. I was told by a person who works at a stove shop that pre - 1985 stoves oftentimes could not accommodate later made stove pipe and that an adapter would need to be fabricated. Please note the attached photo of the custom collar with integrated damper.

The next item I need help with is the installation of the glass. The broken glass panels (three of them) and metal mesh were removed before I bought the stove. I had new ceramic glass panels made up and now I’m ready to install them. I’m not sure though if I need furnace rope and I’m not sure what goes in first; the metal mesh or the ceramic glass? I was told that the mesh would have to go in first on top of the rope. What is the purpose of the mesh? Please note the photo of one of the glass panel locations.

Thank you for all of your help and I look forward to your responses.

PS - is Doug Crane still around?

Very sorry guys I seem to stop getting PM notifications on my email (not sure how to fix that if Rich could advise),
Yes... the tolerance on the flu pipe is REALLY tight! todays standard 6" will fit... I suggest steel wool/scotch bright around the flu pipe to ensure there is not one speck of dirt or soot before trying... then make sure your sliding strait on and it will go but holy crap is it close! LOL

The metal mesh is actually not required now with ceramic glass (its use was for U/L approval way back with pyrex), if your using ceramic glass its personal choice if your like the look with screens or without (the screen goes on the outside of the glass).

The glass should be wrapped with Self Stick Adhesive Gasket, set the screens down first, then the glass wrapped with gasket and then slowly snug the metal holding straps in (turning each a little, evenly to allow slight pressure across all as evenly as possible), do NOT overtighten or glass will break, just a nice even "snug" fit is what you want.

Great Job on the stove, best wishes and feel free to PM me anytime (hopefully Rich can make it alert my email?)

hope everyone is good! love you all!

My God! The "Crane"! He Duth Liveth!! Good Show,Doug!