Hello,
I currently run a Koker Lite in my basement, and use it to heat my approximately 2,200 sqft. house (25 year old house). I love the K-Lite, it keeps my house at 69/70 degrees all winter, using about 3.75 tons of coal.
I'm thinking about putting a small, lightweight, glass-doored, hand fired stove in the ground floor living room, and connecting to an existing fireplace flue/chimney. I believe it would require running a s.s. chimney liner down my existing metal fireplace chimney (the metal fireplace chimney is inside a framed-in, lumber and siding enclosure). Otherwise, i believe the temps would be too high.
My questions are:
Do forum members have recommendations for a lightweight, glass door, hand fired stove that might be able to connect to a preexisting metal fireplace chimney (with stainless added down the interior)?
Have any of you done a retrofitted chimney liner as I've described?
I was hoping for lightweight with the idea that I might disconnect every spring and reconnect every winter (to free up some space).
Thanks for your time,
Matt
Opinions Sought for Small Stove w/Glass Door and SS liners
Last edited by Richard S. on Fri. Aug. 21, 2020 10:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Changed title, please use descriptive titles. Thanks.
Reason: Changed title, please use descriptive titles. Thanks.
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Got pics of living room chimney setup?
- Richard S.
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Is there reason that you have SS liner? Ideally you want clay liner for coal. If the clay liner is in good shape and you want to use coal remove the SS liner.
The SS will deteriorate, it may take ten years but it will need to be replaced. I don't think anyone has had any great success with it. There was at least once case it went one season, either manufacturing defect or misrepresented product.
The SS will deteriorate, it may take ten years but it will need to be replaced. I don't think anyone has had any great success with it. There was at least once case it went one season, either manufacturing defect or misrepresented product.
The existing fireplace chimney is metal (not stainless, I don't think), inside a rectangular framed and sided housing. It matches the siding on the exterior of the house. My idea was to run a 6" ss chimney up through the existing 10" metal chimney, or if necessary remove the old metal one altogether and run stainless the length of the framed/siding enclosure. I'm probably not explaining it very well - the existing metal chimney is inside a walled-off, siding-clad enclosure, part of the framing of the exterior walls of the house.
Whatever I run up through that framed enclosure needs to be able to manage the high temps that coal produces compared to a fireplace. The K-Lite I run in the basement goes out the basement wall at ground level, and has a Class A stainless chimney that is about 18' high. I've had no complaints so far and the price when I installed it was a lot lower than a masonry chimney. I don't know about 10 years from now, but so far the ss has been good.
I appreciate the feedback - let me know if you have any suggestions for my metal chimney inside a preexisting wood framed enclosure.
Thanks for your time,
Matt
Whatever I run up through that framed enclosure needs to be able to manage the high temps that coal produces compared to a fireplace. The K-Lite I run in the basement goes out the basement wall at ground level, and has a Class A stainless chimney that is about 18' high. I've had no complaints so far and the price when I installed it was a lot lower than a masonry chimney. I don't know about 10 years from now, but so far the ss has been good.
I appreciate the feedback - let me know if you have any suggestions for my metal chimney inside a preexisting wood framed enclosure.
Thanks for your time,
Matt
- Richard S.
- Mayor
- Posts: 15243
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
- Location: NEPA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
- Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite
Generally speaking the flue temps on coal are lower. The coal stoves are more efficient and less heat going out the chimney. On my parents Van Wert you can put your bare hand on the flue pipe during idle.
I have heard of chimney's constructed like that before but I'm surprised there isn't code preventing it's use or your insurance company denying coverage. What you are proposing here not only seems doable but would be improvement since there would be air gap or insulation added. As long as existing liner is structurally sound I'm not aware of any reason you would need to remove it if it can accommodate the size of the liner you are going to install but I'm not a liner installer.
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Check the firebox rating is it zero clearance or something else...
If you have to modify the firebox in any way you will loose certification...
From a technical perspective nothing wrong with what you are doing...
The firebox is rated for a wood fire and the flue is rated for a wood fire...
Just check with the fire and insurance co...
If you can get the company that MFG the flue and box see if you can get an approval letter from them too...
If you have to modify the firebox in any way you will loose certification...
From a technical perspective nothing wrong with what you are doing...
The firebox is rated for a wood fire and the flue is rated for a wood fire...
Just check with the fire and insurance co...
If you can get the company that MFG the flue and box see if you can get an approval letter from them too...
Thanks everyone! May be a year or two till I try it. The K lite works great, but I have memories of of an air tight burning in our living room as a kid, and it almost being too hot! The K lite doesn't do that - works great, but we're not wearing shorts and t-shirts during winter in our house!
Thanks again,
Matt
Thanks again,
Matt