Mark II

Irishcoal · Post by **Irishcoal** » Fri. Apr. 17, 2020 8:29 am

CoalHeat wrote: ↑
Fri. Apr. 10, 2020 10:08 pm
You'll find all the info you need on the Legacy Stoves website, there are 4 bolts on the inside of the door that hold the outer window frame and glass in place. You can also contact them and send the photos to help ID the stove. The model can be determined by measuring the stove, as far as the serial number/age that's a bit harder to determine-BUT-the cast door on yours is probably the same one used for years so it's really a non issue.
Those data plates always fall off on the older stoves, the glue melted from the heat of the stove! Mine fell off years ago, I have it in a safe place. Unfortunately I forgot exactly where that safe place is.

I sadly am missing the outer window frame

.

I’m going to call legacy with that pdf that was sent over and see if they still cast it and go from there.

Homesteader · Post by **Homesteader** » Fri. Apr. 17, 2020 9:13 am

The pictures you posted up thread clearly show the gold window frame on the door. Those four bolts inside the door hold the window frame against the glass which holds the glass in place. From those pictures you aren't missing anything. Call Legacy and if asked e-mail them those pictures. I'm sure they'll straighten things out for you.

Irishcoal · Post by **Irishcoal** » Fri. Apr. 17, 2020 8:57 pm

Homesteader wrote: ↑
Fri. Apr. 17, 2020 9:13 am
The pictures you posted up thread clearly show the gold window frame on the door. Those four bolts inside the door hold the window frame against the glass which holds the glass in place. From those pictures you aren't missing anything. Call Legacy and if asked e-mail them those pictures. I'm sure they'll straighten things out for you.

Sorry I miss spoke, I called them and they said there are four window clips and the glass itself I need to buy and I’m all set. I’m going to redo gaskets and clean it up with elbow grease in the next few days.

Homesteader · Post by **Homesteader** » Sat. Apr. 18, 2020 10:22 am

Glad your getting the parts you need. Good luck with the refurb. I think you'll like the stove. Very happy with mine over the years.

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Sun. Apr. 26, 2020 7:21 am

Homesteader wrote: ↑
Sat. Apr. 18, 2020 10:22 am
Glad your getting the parts you need. Good luck with the refurb. I think you'll like the stove. Very happy with mine over the years.

Two days ago I noticed my glass move a little while I was wiping some ash off it. I tightened the bolts on the frame. Two were lose quarter turn. Still moves a little if I push on it. This normal? I had thought the gaskets held it firmly. Has been burning the same, but that is only with 2 weeks experience of running it.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Sun. Apr. 26, 2020 9:10 am

Better it moves than break it over tightening it as long as it's sealed up. A dab of high temp cement in a couple of spots on the gasket may stop it from moving around if you want another project.

Homesteader · Post by **Homesteader** » Sun. Apr. 26, 2020 9:40 am

Like CS said ,be careful about overtightening the bolts. I'd let it go till you shut down for the summer then I'd get some new glass gasket from legacy. It's kind of a flat wrap around gasket that's only supposed to go on the sides of the glass leaving the top and bottom with a thin gap that's supposed to be for the air wash. When I replaced my glass a couple of years ago I put the gasket on the sides & also the top. That helped to reduce the secondary overfire air so I was getting more heat from the stove. Also if you replace the gasket I'd hand tighten the 4 bolts that hold the window frame to the door then slowly tighten them by tweaking one bolt moving to the next then repeat until the glass is just snug. That way you won't put to much stress on one corner of the glass causing a crack. When I did mine after the stove was burning for a few days I tweaked each one just a bit more after things had settled in. Also put some antisieze on the bolt threads before putting them back in.

waytomany?s · Post by **waytomany?s** » Sun. Apr. 26, 2020 9:27 pm

Thanks guys. Good info. Yeah, I'm thinking I'll cover outer two thirds of glass on top, as well as sides when I do it.

Irishcoal · Post by **Irishcoal** » Sat. Oct. 31, 2020 5:39 pm

Homesteader wrote: ↑
Sun. Apr. 26, 2020 9:40 am
Like CS said ,be careful about overtightening the bolts. I'd let it go till you shut down for the summer then I'd get some new glass gasket from legacy. It's kind of a flat wrap around gasket that's only supposed to go on the sides of the glass leaving the top and bottom with a thin gap that's supposed to be for the air wash. When I replaced my glass a couple of years ago I put the gasket on the sides & also the top. That helped to reduce the secondary overfire air so I was getting more heat from the stove. Also if you replace the gasket I'd hand tighten the 4 bolts that hold the window frame to the door then slowly tighten them by tweaking one bolt moving to the next then repeat until the glass is just snug. That way you won't put to much stress on one corner of the glass causing a crack. When I did mine after the stove was burning for a few days I tweaked each one just a bit more after things had settled in. Also put some antisieze on the bolt threads before putting them back in.

I worked on it this summer and got side tracked but just got into it again now that it’s winter. I will put anti seize on the bolts!

Hambden Bob · Post by **Hambden Bob** » Sat. Oct. 31, 2020 5:46 pm

Good Idea! Can You upgrade to high quality stainless fasteners? Just a little more reliability and insurance to go with that high temperature never-seize!!