If your stoves are in dry locations you dont have a lot to worry about, just a good cleaning. Pipes and chimneys are different. But move your stove to a shed and you will see rust within a week, clean or not. That is when the oils and paints would really help... BUT it never hurts to really clean them.
If you go the creosote route for protection use a smoldering fire with green wood. Lots of smoke, AKA creosote.
Hopper or hand fed: Cleaning out
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Hoytman
- Member
- Posts: 6077
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 18, 2017 11:30 pm
- Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354
- Coal Size/Type: nut coal
- Other Heating: electric, wood, oil
Yes...and it looks like once the bricks are out that you let the front drop and raise the rear of the retainer then fish it out. You may have to remove the baffle before removing the retainer.
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Hounds51
- Member
- Posts: 556
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 22, 2020 9:46 pm
- Location: Bethel, Pa
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 2 Legacy TLC 2000 one in the upper and 1 in the lower part of the house
- Coal Size/Type: Wood and pea, nut ,stove and egg coal
I had an old Estate but it gave up the ghost about 3 weeks ago. We never did anything with that stove.
As far as the stove pipe, I think I only replaced 1 piece of stove pipe since 1988. Although I mainly burned wood, I did at 1 time burned coal for two winter,s in a row. I still burn a lot of wood during the day, followed up by coal at night, so I probably am not the average joe here. But I think, I will do a complete clean out , but will not take out the firebrick.
As far as the stovepipe go's, I will probably brush it and put it back for the summer. I will let the bottom vent open and the damper open also.
As far as the stove pipe, I think I only replaced 1 piece of stove pipe since 1988. Although I mainly burned wood, I did at 1 time burned coal for two winter,s in a row. I still burn a lot of wood during the day, followed up by coal at night, so I probably am not the average joe here. But I think, I will do a complete clean out , but will not take out the firebrick.
As far as the stovepipe go's, I will probably brush it and put it back for the summer. I will let the bottom vent open and the damper open also.
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Hoytman
- Member
- Posts: 6077
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 18, 2017 11:30 pm
- Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354
- Coal Size/Type: nut coal
- Other Heating: electric, wood, oil
Update October 25, 2021
Well, I did a bad thing gents. I’m just now getting to cleaning out my stove. It honestly didn’t rust as bad as I expected. Nowhere near. Thankful for that.
The reason this got put off is a lame excuse I guess, but I didn’t have enough hose to keep my sweeper outside. I don’t like to borrow things from people, not even my dad, but I went ahead and borrowed his extra sweeper hose. This allowed me to have my shop vac outside attached to my dust devil and another hose attached to that and extending the 20 feet into the house by the stove. All joints were taped with electric tape, so there was little chance of dust/ash escaping the hose or blowing back into the house from the sweeper and dust devil which was sitting outside in the porch.
Yes, pulled the baffle, brick retainer and bricks and vacuumed everything....bricks, retainer, baffle, ash pan, ash pan area, the maiden of stove walls and ceiling. I’m thinking about tomorrow pulling the cotter pin on the built in damper and pulling it out as well. Probably over-kill since the bottom of the damper plate was swept off, but I’d still like to get the fine ash off the top of the plate.
Need to pull the pipe tomorrow as well. I noticed what appeared to be tiny moisture droplets on the outside of the pipe in some places. Hadn’t noticed this all summer, but it’s been raining the last two days. Second season on this pipe. Not sure I trust it for another season being I didn’t pull the pipe either season. I’m going to start pulling the pipe at clean-out next spring. Also going to put a small light bulb in the stove.
I did notice a tiny bit of micro thin scale rust on the top ceiling of the stove in the two back corners. I’ll be able to gently scrape this off with a scraper (some of it came off with the sweeper brush). I’m not so sure some of that isn’t a little creosote flaking off from burning some wood last season. Anyway, I plan on scraping that real quick like, and using a small steel or brass brush in some crevices and then I’ll do a final vacuum.
Anyone still recommend a thing wipe down in the inside with veggie oil or a quick wipe down/spray with WD-40?
Do some of you recommend some high heat spray paint on the inside of the stove to touch up places?
That might be something I do if I remove the stove from the house. Not really wanting over-spray smell in my house. Momma wouldn’t have to kill me over that. I wouldn’t like it either.
Worst part about me not cleaning out last spring I’d I can hardly turn the door handle to open and close the stove door. I sprayed it with WD-40 and it is soaking. I’ll be removing ALL the doors and glass anyway this year to put in all new gaskets. I figure two years of use is long enough and gasketing is cheap insurance.
Once gaskets are replaced we’ll be starting off the season with some wood burns to see how that goes...with the thermostat and all. A new experience with this stove. I’d like to see how it does.
Anyway....aside from the questions you can see the plans.
Well, I did a bad thing gents. I’m just now getting to cleaning out my stove. It honestly didn’t rust as bad as I expected. Nowhere near. Thankful for that.
The reason this got put off is a lame excuse I guess, but I didn’t have enough hose to keep my sweeper outside. I don’t like to borrow things from people, not even my dad, but I went ahead and borrowed his extra sweeper hose. This allowed me to have my shop vac outside attached to my dust devil and another hose attached to that and extending the 20 feet into the house by the stove. All joints were taped with electric tape, so there was little chance of dust/ash escaping the hose or blowing back into the house from the sweeper and dust devil which was sitting outside in the porch.
Yes, pulled the baffle, brick retainer and bricks and vacuumed everything....bricks, retainer, baffle, ash pan, ash pan area, the maiden of stove walls and ceiling. I’m thinking about tomorrow pulling the cotter pin on the built in damper and pulling it out as well. Probably over-kill since the bottom of the damper plate was swept off, but I’d still like to get the fine ash off the top of the plate.
Need to pull the pipe tomorrow as well. I noticed what appeared to be tiny moisture droplets on the outside of the pipe in some places. Hadn’t noticed this all summer, but it’s been raining the last two days. Second season on this pipe. Not sure I trust it for another season being I didn’t pull the pipe either season. I’m going to start pulling the pipe at clean-out next spring. Also going to put a small light bulb in the stove.
I did notice a tiny bit of micro thin scale rust on the top ceiling of the stove in the two back corners. I’ll be able to gently scrape this off with a scraper (some of it came off with the sweeper brush). I’m not so sure some of that isn’t a little creosote flaking off from burning some wood last season. Anyway, I plan on scraping that real quick like, and using a small steel or brass brush in some crevices and then I’ll do a final vacuum.
Anyone still recommend a thing wipe down in the inside with veggie oil or a quick wipe down/spray with WD-40?
Do some of you recommend some high heat spray paint on the inside of the stove to touch up places?
That might be something I do if I remove the stove from the house. Not really wanting over-spray smell in my house. Momma wouldn’t have to kill me over that. I wouldn’t like it either.
Worst part about me not cleaning out last spring I’d I can hardly turn the door handle to open and close the stove door. I sprayed it with WD-40 and it is soaking. I’ll be removing ALL the doors and glass anyway this year to put in all new gaskets. I figure two years of use is long enough and gasketing is cheap insurance.
Once gaskets are replaced we’ll be starting off the season with some wood burns to see how that goes...with the thermostat and all. A new experience with this stove. I’d like to see how it does.
Anyway....aside from the questions you can see the plans.
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warminmn
- Member
- Posts: 8190
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 08, 2011 5:59 pm
- Location: Land of 11,842 lakes
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Junior, Riteway 37
- Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite, lignite
- Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt
Ha Ha! Yes, bad, bad
if it got by this long I wouldnt worry about painting it a week or month away from use but maybe you mean after this year. I get those little rust bubbles but the pipes are usually still solid. For me its the Tee's that rust out because they collect ash.
If you had a rainy or humid year there thats what speeds the rust up. I had a dry year here and no issues Im aware of.
You have wood so just let some green wood smolder in it before and after you use it this year. Clean the pipe and stove before you burn wood the last time. You can still spray it all down with oil after that if you want too.
if it got by this long I wouldnt worry about painting it a week or month away from use but maybe you mean after this year. I get those little rust bubbles but the pipes are usually still solid. For me its the Tee's that rust out because they collect ash.
If you had a rainy or humid year there thats what speeds the rust up. I had a dry year here and no issues Im aware of.
You have wood so just let some green wood smolder in it before and after you use it this year. Clean the pipe and stove before you burn wood the last time. You can still spray it all down with oil after that if you want too.
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freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30300
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
No comment!!!
