Coalpail.com Forum

My 354 has over fire air...sort of. Ha ha....just throwing that out there into a thread it doesn’t belong. Lol!

hotblast1357 wrote: ↑

Sat. Nov. 30, 2019 6:28 am

First off we have a 30-95 sitting in the garage in the corner so I guess that puts me into the club to respond in this thread? Lmao

It’s odd to me as to why the hitzer needs the fresh air vents in addition to the bi metallic control?

We have 3 saey Hannover stoves in the family, they operate on a bi metallic control, and run great, there is no other source of primary air with them, it would seem to me that the additional primary air vents are just one more thing to “tinker” with, why not shut them/plug them and just use the bi metallic control?

Fresh air vents... Are you talking about in the ash door...as addition to the primary air bi-metallic?

If so...if that’s what your asking, then here’s my not so experienced thought on that.

Having the bi-metallic AND ash door vents allows you to both automatically control the stove as well as manually control the stove.

In talking with Dean Lehman’s son just yesterday over the phone about this...ash door vents as well as the bi-metallic...I mentioned if that was the reason for both and he seemed to indicate that was the case.

I would tend to think this would be the case should a bi-metallic fail...ash door vent would allow you to continue to run the stove manually while waiting on a new bi-metallic.

I could see that being the only reason for manual air primary vents, as a back up if the bi metallic failed.

franco b wrote: ↑

Sat. Nov. 30, 2019 10:21 am

It would be interesting to get a manometer reading both ways.

on my instal at the present time 45* forward or 45* back shows the same reading on the mano.

personally i prefer back because my right wrist doesn't like moving lefty loosy.

Next would be a stack temperature reading after the damper both ways.

We got a WINNER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL Same results Richard.

KingCoal wrote: ↑

Sat. Nov. 30, 2019 8:36 pm

on my instal at the present time 45* forward or 45* back shows the same reading on the mano.

personally i prefer back because my right wrist doesn't like moving lefty loosy.

You guys are too funny, but you never know when a small detail could change things I guess...or not. Lol!!!

H, I keep sayin that the only stupid questions are the ones we don't ask.

So...MPD with HOLES in them or solid?

for clarity, do you have a truly solid damper ? and how much smaller is the OD of the damper than the ID of the smoke pipe ? i have and do use ordinary true value dampers that i close off all the central openings in but most people don't bother and in the present case the results were attained from a standard unmodified MPD

there are many many variables involved but, i doubt that given using a single installation running at steady state conditions and tested in a 2 minute time frame is going to show any meaningful diff. of inner temp between forward or back MPD setting.

Here is a pic of examples of a solid damper and one with holes.

Seems appropriate to make folks aware the differences exist and can/will affect how they affect burns.

i'm sorry but those 2 dampers are exactly the same, the one has some sort of bypass collar in the mounting that might provide some benefit i suppose but otherwise both damper plates have the same number and size of holes across the line of the axle.

a truly solid baffle plate will offer more resistance to exhaust gas flow but none of the presently available units will completely close of the pipe for the obvious reasons of liability.

the other side of the coin is that this thread never needed to slide this direction and i'm sorry for my earlier comments that helped that to happen.

peace out,
steve

The rule of unintended consequences...
But sometimes the slide can be fun...

LOL--indeed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So Bluesdad, How are things working out with your 50-93....?