Replace My Propane Stove With Wood or Coal - Need Advice

 
Jazzguitar67
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Post by Jazzguitar67 » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 8:12 am

Hello to everyone-

I recently bought an old farmhouse - about 2500sq/ft - that was built in the 1890s. It has been renovated with newer windows and insulation. It isn't drafty, but definitely not as air-tight as a modern structure. Back in the 1990s (when it was updated), the previous owner installed electric baseboard heating in all the rooms and a Vermont Castings 22,000 BTU propane stove for supplemental heat.

I would like to rip out the propane stove and install a high-btu hand fired coal stove (or wood stove or coal stoker) to use as the primary heat source and use the baseboard heat as supplemental heat and I need some advice.

The propane stove is of the direct-vent variety. I would like to avoid installing a chimney if possible, though I am not opposed to it. Total cost is the primary concern here. I have seen some Keystoker stoves that have a direct vent setup, but I would prefer a hand-fired unit as I would like to have some heat if the power goes out. I am also concerned about the direct-vent set up in the event of a power failure as it seems that the direct-vent flu has some sort of blower attached to it.

I have attached some pictures of the space in the home where the existing stove is. The brick area is 46" deep (front to back) and 10 feet wide. There are 12 inches between the top of the stove pipe and the bottom of the mantle-shelf.

I live in eastern PA - not too far from Schuylkill County and I have a truck and trailer capable of hauling coal. I have previous experience with burning coal - I owned an old home with a Van Wert coal-fired boiler that heated my 4600 square foot home with ease. I know a hand fired radiant heat stove is going to be different than an automated boiler, but I am comfortable with coal.

So here are my thoughts and I need some council:

I would rather have wood because I have access to some wood at no cost and I like the look of a wood fire. If I were to do wood, I would probably use a Blaze King Ultra that would allow me to load up to 90 pounds of wood into the firebox to get a burn time of 20-40 hours. The only thing keeping me from doing this option is that I would rather not install a chimney.

Considering the above, my next choice would be to use a hand-fired coal stove - something that produces 100,000 BTU or more of heat. I like the idea of having a heating source that will work without power and, if I can direct-vent one of these - I think it would be my most cost-effective solution.

Lastly, if my only option for direct vent is a stoker stove, I would consider it. My main concern is what happens with the direct-vent chimney if I lose power?

Oh - one other thing.....I have a slight concern about the smell of coal. My old Van Wert had a warped door that sealed terribly and there was a sort of coal oil smell in the furnace room. It was far enough away from the rest of the house that you couldn't smell it in the living area, but this stove would be right in the living area of my current house. I would assume that I modern stove with a tight-fitting door and seals would not produce an unpleasant smell, but correct me if I am mistaken.

Thanks for your patience with my long-winded post. Image

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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 8:25 am

I would go with a coal stoker. What is your conventional heat source and distribution in the house? Just curious.

 
Jazzguitar67
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Post by Jazzguitar67 » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 8:34 am

My house has two sides - the old farm house (about 2500 square feet) and a new addition that can be closed off from the old farmhouse (about 1100 square feet.

The new side has a propane fired hot air furnace. I'm not looking for the coal stove to heat this area. It is removed from the main house, connected by an enclosed breezeway.

The old farmhouse is 2500 square feet and the conventional heat source is electric baseboard heat. This will cost me a fortune to heat the home with !!!!!

The room with the propane stove has a stair case in it that goes up to the bedrooms. The heat from the propane stove flows nicely up the staircase. The doors to all the bedrooms are at the top of the stairs and they heat nicely.

The problem is that with only 22,000 btu of power, that propane stove isn't going to do when the temps drop to zero. I really don't want to rely on the baseboard heat at all.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 9:08 am

The existing VC propane stove is vented through what, B-Vent or masonary chimney...
Power vent is only for stokers...
No power with stoker, need genny...
No genny, need hand fired with masonry or Class A SS chimney...

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 9:16 am

As for the hand-fired ya might want to check out the HITZER 50-93--I also have a 200 yr. old farm house, all post & beam that is as tight as possible, but rooms are pretty broke up. My HITZER plus a ceiling fan in the stove room keep the old homestead at a pretty comfy 72*--bedroom around 70* I close off the rear since all the kids have gone off to conquer the world.

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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 9:20 am

Can see the outside direct-vent on exterior wall photo posted of house, no vertical chimney of any sort.

 
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keegs
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Post by keegs » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 9:29 am

Insulate the attic.
Then:
Look into a heat pump or heat pumps.
And/Or:
Put up a pipe ...you should be able to squeeze it inside that top window on the right
That's a nice house.. I'll bet a restored hand fed coal base burner would look smart sitting on that nice brick hearth.
Electric heat will put you in the poor house.


 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 9:41 am

The existing direct-vent exit could work for a short stove body with a hopper and bi-metallic control and a Class A chimney if desired.
Last edited by McGiever on Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 9:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
Jazzguitar67
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Post by Jazzguitar67 » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 9:48 am

So, it seems that the only way to utilize the existing direct-vent setup would be with a stoker and some sort of power vent. I'm not wild about that - I really want to see more flame and have a more rustic look than the stoker and I want to have heat when power goes out.

It looks like I'm going to have to go through my direct vent opening with a class A Stainless Chimney. That's going to add a few thousand dollars to the price of the conversion, I'm sure. I guess if I do that, I can use either wood or a hand-fired coal stove.

Thanks, everyone, for their help!

 
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Post by franco b » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 10:44 am

The cheapest and most practical is to stay with what you have. If you can work one hour a week more, at customary rates it will more than pay for the cost of propane over wood or coal. Coal will consume more than one hour, and wood way more. You could buy a propane fired generator for emergency use.

That is the practical end which does not satisfy the emotional. Wood would be a complete disaster.

 
Jazzguitar67
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Post by Jazzguitar67 » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 11:04 am

Thanks Franco, but the current propane stove doesn't put out nearly enough heat to keep the whole house warm. It's only 22,000 btu.

Electric baseboard heat for 2500 square feet is going to cost me a fortune!

 
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Post by franco b » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 12:59 pm

Jazzguitar67 wrote:
Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 11:04 am
Thanks Franco, but the current propane stove doesn't put out nearly enough heat to keep the whole house warm. It's only 22,000 btu.

Electric baseboard heat for 2500 square feet is going to cost me a fortune!
To equal your present heat output (assuming it is accurate) with coal would mean burning about 53 pounds per day. Double that for wood. Anny increase over that, I think would be too much work with a hand fired.

22,000 Btu is a lot run steadily. How low does the outside temperature have to go before it is inadequate?

 
Jazzguitar67
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Post by Jazzguitar67 » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 1:05 pm

We have had a night or two when temps were in low 30s or high 20s.

The propane furnace was not adequate for that. Even when it's in the 40s, I have to put the baseboard heat on in the kitchen, which is the room right next to the one where the propane stove is.

There is a little parlor, or living room, attached to the room where the propane stove is. I have had to turn the baseboard heat on to knock the chill off in there too.

I really don't think that the propane is going to keep up with things when we have days/weeks in the 20s and lower.

 
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Post by Den034071 » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 2:14 pm

Jay google Gibraltar M C C hand fire stove .Im from Schuykill County .I have a rated 95000 btu stove Reasonable .Stored 13 years . Lots of info do search on Gibraltar stoves .

 
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Post by oliver power » Tue. Nov. 12, 2019 2:44 pm

You have an older house. At one time, it had a chimney. Like already asked, what kind of chimney for Vermont castings stove? I agree with Fred; Put a good used HITZER 50-93 where the Vermont castings stove sets, and be done with it.


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