Lighting and Maintaining a coal fire
- Hrdnox1
- Member
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 04, 2019 3:27 pm
- Location: Hazleton, Pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska Kodiak
- Coal Size/Type: Nut and Pea
Alright, this weekend was an epic fail for me and lighting my hand fired Alaska Kodiak. The story is as follows:
First fire-up was Saturday 10-5-19 around 5 pm (ish), I used a combination of crumbled up newspaper, kindling, small fat wood and a bag of charcoal briquettes and some nut. I got really good heat and great fire, so i tossed a shovel full of nut on the fire, kept the air intake wide open. I repeated this process for about 2-3 hours, the flames were licking towards the back of the stove like expected. Once i got a good 2-3 inch base of hot coals i added another scoop or two of nut and kept cleaning up the garage. Now I'm into this for over 4-5 hours and should be able to to just throttle it back, walk away and come back out to a nicely heated garage in the morning , am i correct in assuming that? Well it didn't happen, my stove went Austin 3:16 on me and i found it stone cold in the morning.
Second attempt was Sunday afternoon now its WAR! Newspaper, kindling, fat wood, 12" seasoned oak log, Fire starting gel, lump charcoal and a gardening blow torch. This fire was intense, i kept adding nut coal and had a good 3-4" base of HOT coal. Dialed it back for the evening, came out before going to work and again stone cold!
Above should be a picture of my setup.
My Barometric damper is set between 4 and 6.
All gaps in the clean-out hole, Stove pipe joints and stove pipe to thimble have been sealed with black furnace cement from a caulking tube.
I have 2 windows opened in the garage about 3 inches.
I'm using Reading chestnut bag coal.
My elevation is around 1,700ft
The barometric pressure was 29.95 inches on Saturday and 30.17 on Sunday
It was rainy and cold (Highs in the upper 50's and lows in the low 40's) with steady winds.
Is there something i'm doing wrong/incorrectly?
Should i switch up to stove coal or drop down to Pea?
My last ditch effort is to add one of these:
https://www.northlineexpress.com/tjernlund-automa ... -8803.html
I really don't want to for the simple fact of power outage and needing to redo that electrical on the wall behind it.
Any and all help would be much Appreciated.
First fire-up was Saturday 10-5-19 around 5 pm (ish), I used a combination of crumbled up newspaper, kindling, small fat wood and a bag of charcoal briquettes and some nut. I got really good heat and great fire, so i tossed a shovel full of nut on the fire, kept the air intake wide open. I repeated this process for about 2-3 hours, the flames were licking towards the back of the stove like expected. Once i got a good 2-3 inch base of hot coals i added another scoop or two of nut and kept cleaning up the garage. Now I'm into this for over 4-5 hours and should be able to to just throttle it back, walk away and come back out to a nicely heated garage in the morning , am i correct in assuming that? Well it didn't happen, my stove went Austin 3:16 on me and i found it stone cold in the morning.
Second attempt was Sunday afternoon now its WAR! Newspaper, kindling, fat wood, 12" seasoned oak log, Fire starting gel, lump charcoal and a gardening blow torch. This fire was intense, i kept adding nut coal and had a good 3-4" base of HOT coal. Dialed it back for the evening, came out before going to work and again stone cold!
Above should be a picture of my setup.
My Barometric damper is set between 4 and 6.
All gaps in the clean-out hole, Stove pipe joints and stove pipe to thimble have been sealed with black furnace cement from a caulking tube.
I have 2 windows opened in the garage about 3 inches.
I'm using Reading chestnut bag coal.
My elevation is around 1,700ft
The barometric pressure was 29.95 inches on Saturday and 30.17 on Sunday
It was rainy and cold (Highs in the upper 50's and lows in the low 40's) with steady winds.
Is there something i'm doing wrong/incorrectly?
Should i switch up to stove coal or drop down to Pea?
My last ditch effort is to add one of these:
https://www.northlineexpress.com/tjernlund-automa ... -8803.html
I really don't want to for the simple fact of power outage and needing to redo that electrical on the wall behind it.
Any and all help would be much Appreciated.
-
- Member
- Posts: 304
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 5:29 pm
- Location: Northeast Nebraska
- Baseburners & Antiques: Wehrle Acme Sunburst 112, Hot Blast wood/coal burner
I don't have a stove like yours and I know every stove has a different personality, but I have a difficult time keeping mine going unless it's below 40 outside. I use TSC nut coal, which I know is not ideal. I'm wondering if there's a possibility that the newspaper and wood you're using could be making enough ashes to clog the air under the coal so your fire is not breathing right. I'm sure someone on the forum who's acquainted with a stove like yours will come along and help. It's still pretty quiet on the forum but I'm sure it's about to wake up. Jerry
- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1701
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
3 to 4 inches of coal does not seem like very much. Coal likes the deepest bed possible. Mound it up in the middle as high as you can at each tending...
BTW, switch to hardwood charcoal for lighting. Burns much hotter than regular charcoal
BTW, switch to hardwood charcoal for lighting. Burns much hotter than regular charcoal
- Hrdnox1
- Member
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 04, 2019 3:27 pm
- Location: Hazleton, Pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska Kodiak
- Coal Size/Type: Nut and Pea
Thanks Jerry,
I thought that initially too however, I did get a good shakedown on the ash from the first fire-up not so much from the newspaper but more so from the briquettes. i felt that the ash was more cake-like therefore i switched to the the lump and gel method.
I thought that initially too however, I did get a good shakedown on the ash from the first fire-up not so much from the newspaper but more so from the briquettes. i felt that the ash was more cake-like therefore i switched to the the lump and gel method.
- Hrdnox1
- Member
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 04, 2019 3:27 pm
- Location: Hazleton, Pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska Kodiak
- Coal Size/Type: Nut and Pea
3-4 inches deep across the grate seemed pretty deep to me IDK. My goal was to get it close to the hopper and just fill the hopper. If i mounded it into the middle it would start to die down and i read somewhere that it needs to be spread across the whole grate.
Yeah it does, that lump charcoal i referred to was hardwood, sorry i forgot to mention that.
Dare i mention it but im thinking about the whole baro damper vs. MPD debate too.
-
- Member
- Posts: 6515
- Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
- Location: Cape Cod, MA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
- Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove
Weak draft...
Cover the baro with foil...
Untill you can get a 24 hr burn...
Cover the baro with foil...
Untill you can get a 24 hr burn...
- Hrdnox1
- Member
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 04, 2019 3:27 pm
- Location: Hazleton, Pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska Kodiak
- Coal Size/Type: Nut and Pea
Then what?CapeCoaler wrote: ↑Mon. Oct. 07, 2019 1:11 pmWeak draft...
Cover the baro with foil...
Untill you can get a 24 hr burn...
- Lightning
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 14669
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
Dude, dont be so bashful... once you get 3-4 inches of coal burning good then you need to FILL it.. and I dont mean add another scoop, I mean build that sucker to 8-10 inches deep. An 8 inch fire with nut size is the shallowest it should be.
- Hrdnox1
- Member
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 04, 2019 3:27 pm
- Location: Hazleton, Pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska Kodiak
- Coal Size/Type: Nut and Pea
Hahahaha i don't even have room to build it 8-10 inches deep but if my measly 2 scoops method smothers the fire out and i have to dump an entire hopper full of coal I'm going to be upset lol
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- Member
- Posts: 6515
- Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
- Location: Cape Cod, MA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
- Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove
I can restart with ash on the grate...
Draft is decent and can run the stove even in the 70*'s...
Covering baro will help draft...
Hotter fire will help draft...
A little over fire air will help draft...
has chimney been checked for blockage...
Stove pipe clear...
Cover the baro and if IT is the cause for a weak draft...
The fire should be better...
Open the ash door to get the fir cookin with the lump...
After the first bit of coal is glowing...
you can add a good bit of coal...
Draft is decent and can run the stove even in the 70*'s...
Covering baro will help draft...
Hotter fire will help draft...
A little over fire air will help draft...
has chimney been checked for blockage...
Stove pipe clear...
Cover the baro and if IT is the cause for a weak draft...
The fire should be better...
Open the ash door to get the fir cookin with the lump...
After the first bit of coal is glowing...
you can add a good bit of coal...
-
- Member
- Posts: 6515
- Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
- Location: Cape Cod, MA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
- Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove
Two scoops of coal should not smother the lump if it is hot enough...
Open the ash door the lump should be sparkin and glowin...
Open the ash door the lump should be sparkin and glowin...
- Lightning
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 14669
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
Kidding aside, yeah man get the fuel bed as deep as you can. In my hand fed furnace days I'd build it 12-14 even mound it 16 inches deep in the center. Heat output and burn rate is controlled by incoming combustion air
- Hrdnox1
- Member
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 04, 2019 3:27 pm
- Location: Hazleton, Pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska Kodiak
- Coal Size/Type: Nut and Pea
CapeCoaler wrote: ↑Mon. Oct. 07, 2019 2:12 pmI can restart with ash on the grate...
Draft is decent and can run the stove even in the 70*'s...
Covering baro will help draft...
Hotter fire will help draft...
A little over fire air will help draft...
has chimney been checked for blockage...
Stove pipe clear...
Cover the baro and if IT is the cause for a weak draft...
The fire should be better...
Open the ash door to get the fir cookin with the lump...
After the first bit of coal is glowing...
you can add a good bit of coal...
Chimney is not blocked, Stove pipe is new and sealed with furnace cement.
What exactly do you mean by over fire air?
I'm going to put aluminium foil over the baro and go from there.
If it is the source of weak draft, replace with a MPD?
Would going to Stove size coal help with airflow if i still have weak draft?
I'm going to make a pile of lump, centered as best i can and just send it!! Once hot and raging, I'll add a a scoop or two of coal get it glowing and just bury it? or add 4 nice scoops?
- freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30302
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Use self light briquetts (whole bag) get it going good, slowly add NUT coal--keep baro covered forever!!!! fill to hopper with a good red coal base--fill hopper from top to complete process which takes me about 15 minutes on my HITZER--damn similar to your KODIAK--keep bottom vents real open initially--don't overthink all this. Keep us posted with progress H.
-
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 11417
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
I find it hard to believe your firebox is so shallow. Please post a picture with the feed door open showing the fire box and grates.