Riteway 37 Questions

So I had been watching for a Warm Morning and they were always damaged from chunks of wood thrown in them and I ran across this Riteway at a sale. Cost me a whopping $24, so it was worth a chance. loaded it with a skidster and I took it all apart so I can move it and inspect it when I got home. Grates are good, grate frame has some warping but will be ok. The 2 louvers above the grates are good. 1 cracked brick (surprisingly only 1) The most important cast iron pieces are good, with the end cast pieces holding bricks cracked but usable. 1 small rust thru spot on the side which will be an easy fix. Its going to be nice to finally have a shaker grate instead of slicing, plus a few more BTU's.

My questions: the previous owner has added some fancy chrome side pipes to the old girl for overfire air which you will see. One side is for decoration, the other is hooked to the inside pipes. I might use them, or not, but plan on leaving it on. They put screws over the holes that go into the burn chamber (unsure of proper name), but there are other screws there too (pictured).
1. How many holes were th the chamber originally?
2. And does that system actually work well for burning up the gasses? Or is there a better way?
3. The cover/shield that went over those small holes... how far is that spaced away from the holes and is the shield open all around the edges or just on one end? Im sure I can fab one but cant seem to find info online. I figure its needed to preheat the air.
4. The air intake (pictured open) where the magnet is there is a cushion on top of the magnet. There is also an air gap there that can leak into the air intake. Is that normal, both the cushion and air gap?
5. Any other suggestions are appreciated whether I use them or not. I know a few of you have had these stoves.

It will mostly be used for ant, but I will burn some wood and possibly some lignite in it. The doors have a sheet of asbestos inside for heat stop and for gasket with tin over that, and it seems to seal the door quite tight so i am leaving them alone. So only a top gasket and maybe some gaskets under some of the cast to seal small gaps I see (from the factory). I need to cut a hole for a small window somewhere in it too. Thanks! If I think of more things I'll ask.

I will reserve my feelings about the humanity of the former owner but, its horrifying to see this mess made of the best stove of it's type ever made and, the fore runner of 2 copies still being made by Hitzer.

all that was accomplished is workarounds brought about by a total misunderstanding of how that stove was designed to function and no inclination to learn but to make it something else and lesser in the process.

as is it's pretty much a wood only and trash burner and though I had and used one of these very stoves with anth for 25 yrs i'm not sure I know where i'd start trying to fix it right.

I guess the place to start would be a Hitzer flyer, photos and exploded view of the current production to see and understand what it was to start with.

my very best wishes to you with it,
steve

KingCoal wrote: ↑

Mon. Apr. 29, 2019 2:47 pm

I will reserve my feelings about the humanity of the former owner but, its horrifying to see this mess made of the best stove of it's type ever made and, the fore runner of 2 copies still being made by Hitzer.

all that was accomplished is workarounds brought about by a total misunderstanding of how that stove was designed to function and no inclination to learn but to make it something else and lesser in the process.

as is it's pretty much a wood only and trash burner and though I had and used one of these very stoves with anth for 25 yrs i'm not sure I know where i'd start trying to fix it right.

I guess the place to start would be a Hitzer flyer, photos and exploded view of the current production to see and understand what it was to start with.

my very best wishes to you with it,
steve

Thank you for the reply. I am familiar with the Hitzer 55 as my Dad has one. I do have to ask, when you burnt ant did you use yours with the indirect draft with those little holes open, or did you just let it vent out the top hole? I have found info on this site stating they used them both ways, with this stove and with the Hitzer models mentioned.

I did find pics someone posted a few years ago of one of these and figured the cover over the holes part out. But if its better to just use the top vent I wont bother making/fixing that part. Thanks!

i used it entirely factory intact with the back cover installed and the holes open, also yes, i used it with the upper bypass damper closed unless shaking down and reloading.

if you go that way you might as well leave the holes plugged and just attempt to use the "secondary air pipe" as provided. becaus eof the strenght of the draft i had everywhere i used the RW#37 i never used the bi metal, i just stuck a penny under the front of the air damper and let the chimney run it. never had or even knew about Baro's or Mano's in those days but when it was really windy it would whistle through the damper rod hole in the body.

i hope someone still using this or the Hitzer with anth will chime in with their views and operating experiences.

steve

I will make a new cover now that I know to use the bypass with ant. That is the answer I wanted and needed before I start any fab work. I'll probably make a new piece where the holes are too. Thank you very much for the reply.

My Dad runs his 55 with the bypass even with wood. Most here dont. But the 55 is a little different design than this one.