Clayton Warm Air Furnace

Mega_Me · Post by **Mega_Me** » Tue. Jan. 17, 2006 5:51 pm

Oh and a big word of advice!!!!! I think somewhere you said that you have the forced draft kit??? If you do install it, you are required to wire the outlet on the front of the furnace (where the trim cap is now) and pull the wires between the firebox and the outside case back to the fan center switch/relay. Since these wires are not well insulated guess what happens!!!! Yep they melt and short out. Here's how I solved the problem for about $10. A guy at work has the same set-up as we do and did the same thing. US Stove never called me back when I told them what happened!

Mega_Me · Post by **Mega_Me** » Tue. Jan. 17, 2006 5:54 pm

Last one of outlet detail.

blue83camaro · Post by **blue83camaro** » Tue. Jan. 17, 2006 6:08 pm

Mega, nice pics, thanks for the info. Those are pretty much what I was looking at except I would have had $600 dollars in the pair. I even looked for motors to drive mine but couldn't find any under $200 a piece. I think I am going to hook a solenoid to a weighted arm. In case of a power failure the arm will drop and open the damper. In the summer I will take the arm off so I can unplug the solenoid. I want the damper open in a power failure so the air can convect thru the duct work. I also want a solenoid operated damper on the air inlet. In the case of a power failure or stove over heating, it will also close and limit the fire. These additions would make me feel better when I am away from home.

blue83camaro · Post by **blue83camaro** » Tue. Jan. 17, 2006 6:15 pm

Mega, I was wondering if the wires would be a problem that close to the fire box. I think I will do the same as you did if I decide to hook up the blower. I didn't buy the kit. I bought a blower from grainger for $35 all I have to make is the mount and control circuit. Thanks, Scott

Mega_Me · Post by **Mega_Me** » Tue. Jan. 17, 2006 6:25 pm

You are welcome, no problem. I don't know why they had those wires set-up that way?! We have a generator that powers the furnaces and critical things should there be an outage. I've sure learned a lot in the past 6 months since beginning this whole thing! Nice Camaro, I used to have a '66 Impala w/a 396, real nice but got stupid one day and sold it.

tewplanman · Post by **tewplanman** » Sun. Jan. 21, 2007 6:52 pm

Hi:

Just ordered my US Stove 1600 G. im in PA and need to heat 2500 sq ft with a 12 hr burn.

Reading some of the post on this board makes me with I didnt order the US Stove, is it really that hard to get a 12 hr burn on anthracite.

Are you guys in ohio that own the same stove burning anthracite or bit coal??? any help would be appreciated

Tom

LsFarm · Post by **LsFarm** » Sun. Jan. 21, 2007 7:23 pm

Tom, I'd say a 12 hour burn is near the limit of the firebox design and the square footage of your house is near the maximum I would try to heat with that furnace.

Greg L

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Mega_Me · Post by **Mega_Me** » Tue. Jan. 30, 2007 10:09 am

Tom,

Sorry for the delay in replying.

I maily burn wood. I do however use bit. coal at night when the temps drop into the teens and low 20's.

The is no way I could ever get a 12 hour burn time using wood....6 hours at the most. But when using a couple scoops of bit. coal, I usually can get it to last all night, aprox 8 hours. If a really loaded it up with bit. coal, I'm sure it would make it 12 hours.

tewplanman · Post by **tewplanman** » Tue. Jan. 30, 2007 8:15 pm

Thanks guys for all the help on this one, let you know when im burning

Tom

cgm1 · Post by **cgm1** » Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:23 am

Hello,
I am new to this site and new to the CLayton world I have just purchased the 1600G model from a friend used (almost new) and I have a few ideas that I am not sure about. First I have hot water heat in my home currently and would like to put the hot water coil in my wood furnace and heat my home that way upstairs. My basement is my up and coming Sunday football hang out so I would like to use the plentum and blower that is on there currently to heat my basement. The second part of it seems workable not sure about the 1st part or both together. If anyone can put me in the right direction even on the installation and purchase of the hot water coil it would be greatly appreciated.

LsFarm · Post by **LsFarm** » Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 2:37 pm

Hello cgm, you can get enough heat from a hot water coil to heat domestic hot water, but slowly.. you will not get enough heat from a coil to heat a floor of your house. There just isn't enough heated surface area in a coil to absorb the needed heat..

You will be better off installing some ductwork and ducting some hot air upstairs, and make sure you hook up a cold air return to the furnace,, this will make it work like a furnace,, not a stove..

What makes heat move, the ability to extract heat from a firebox etc is the same with wood or coal.. read, and read some more in the coal forums about boilers, furnaces, ductwork etc...

Greg L.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 5:00 pm

cgm1 wrote:If anyone can put me in the right direction

Sell it and get a boiler.

cgm1 · Post by **cgm1** » Fri. Sep. 12, 2008 7:34 am

Thanks for all your help I will keep in touch and let you know what I come up with

BIG BEAM · Post by **BIG BEAM** » Fri. Sep. 12, 2008 8:37 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
cgm1 wrote:If anyone can put me in the right direction
Sell it and get a boiler.

+ 1 on that
DON

johnstar · Post by **johnstar** » Mon. Oct. 27, 2008 10:02 pm

OK, I am new to this coal burning. I have a clayton 1600M which I have a problem with. 1) I can't seem to get the fire burning either hot enough or long enough for the blower to turn on for longer than 30 seconds. 2) when I get a good fire going it seems to only stay in the middle. What's going on here? I am beyond frustrated and want to rip this thing out.

Clayton Warm Air Furnace

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