anyone running with OUT a barro?

just wondering if anyone is not using a baro? my stove didn't have one when i bought the house and i didn't learn about them until i was already burning. everything seems to be good, still was a learning curve i think i got it down now. just worried about leaving the house when its over 450 in fear it could get windy and the stove over heat... sometimes i feel like my primary air setting doesn't always give me the same stove temps also, i think i baro would make it more consistent... if all this is true i would like to install one eventually, there are two field control models, and mc and an rc..?? i hear mixed reviews about what is better? any one with any experience on burning with out a baro and then with one and seeing the difference? or experience with both models of baros?

I really liked the precision and ease of adjustment with the type M, but after about a year it started sticking closed and I could not get it working without sticking. Switched to the RC that came with my boiler and have not had any trouble since.

does that stove have bi-metal thermostatic draft control ?

no but i would love one!!!

Install one Ben , my stove puts out more heat with more consistent burn times especially on cold windy overnights , I cover with heavy foil if burning wood

nepacoal wrote: ↑

Tue. Dec. 11, 2018 9:21 am

I really liked the precision and ease of adjustment with the type M, but after about a year it started sticking closed and I could not get it working without sticking. Switched to the RC that came with my boiler and have not had any trouble since.

This is almost exactly my experience with the Type M, except mine was sticking open and try as I might, I couldn't stop it from sticking open. My RC is running trouble free.

No Baro...
No place for one with an insert...
The other stove is bi-metalic...

I have a baro it really does even things out.

so i should go with the RC? i hope i could fit it into my configuration, its a little weird, my stove pipe is actually 3 elbows.... and a bi metallic, does anyone have a kit for me to install one of those? my last question is a blower... my stove has a spot on the back for one but i dont have one and was wondering how to find out what one to buy and where to buy?

No bare on any of my two stoves... I use MPDs and close them stoves idle just fine...

I’ve run base heaters and direct draft stoves both with and without a baro’s installed. Baro’s do help a bit!

ok can i install my mano meter with metal break line going into a compression fitting and the other end of the compression fitting is 3/8 pipe thread threaded into my stove pipe? or do i need a "probe" in the pipe, like the brake line actually a few inches in the pipe?

You want to go in a few inches. The gasses move slower along the sides of the pipe then the center. You’ll get the most accurate reading closest to center.

Here’s how I set mine up: Post by tcalo - Manometer

You don't say what stove you have. I have a Vermont Castings 2310 coal stove and the manual says nothing should allow any air to enter the flue without first passing through the firebox. There is a thermostat on the primary air intake, and at the 12 o'clock setting there is no danger of going over 600 degrees--usually around 400-500. If I leave, I turn it down just to save coal, and so far I have come home to find it 350 to 450 on the stove top (griddle). Only dead center on the griddle is the high temp--even a few inches from center, the griddle is much cooler, 50 degrees lower or more.
Many people here consider a mano an essential gadget, but I don't know why it is not recommended for mine. I have never seen a VC 2310 illustrated in photos with one. I read that they can be important for long chimneys, especially over 2 stories high. To increase draft I change the internal damper and the primary air setting, otherwise I use the side and back draft and reduce primary air. My stainless steel chimney has a cap on top that is supposed to shield it from the high winds I get here.
When my internal updraft damper is closed, the fire seems very even and constant for long periods, and when it is open, the draft is increased. I am still learning the temperature ranges for various conditions and settings.
By the way, my new Vermont Castings magnetic thermometer shows higher readings than my new infrared thermo pistol at the same spots--50 to 100 degrees lower on the IR, no matter where I aim it. Both are between 350 and 550 (maybe 600 on the VC) all the time. If we have a long very cold period, I will see if that changes things-- it has been 20's at night and 30's in the day, give or take. Sometimes we go to zero or below, and sometimes for weeks.

ratherbeflying wrote: ↑

Tue. Dec. 11, 2018 9:08 am

just wondering if anyone is not using a baro? my stove didn't have one when i bought the house and i didn't learn about them until i was already burning. everything seems to be good, still was a learning curve i think i got it down now. just worried about leaving the house when its over 450 in fear it could get windy and the stove over heat... sometimes i feel like my primary air setting doesn't always give me the same stove temps also, i think i baro would make it more consistent... if all this is true i would like to install one eventually, there are two field control models, and mc and an rc..?? i hear mixed reviews about what is better? any one with any experience on burning with out a baro and then with one and seeing the difference? or experience with both models of baros?

I don't use one. I run with the MPD closed all the time except when shaking down and reloading.

My MPD plate doesn't have bypass holes, so windy days don't trouble me.