anyone running with OUT a barro?

artbaldoni · Post by **artbaldoni** » Wed. Feb. 27, 2019 6:41 pm

Started my Crane 404 without anything. Had poor draft due to a partially clogged chimney. cleaned the chimney and found lots of draft. Installed the MPD I had sitting on the shelf and life is good. I have been running 450f stove top and 85f on the pipe at the thimble. Now, I'm new to this indoor coal thing, but I thought that sounded pretty good to me. Getting 2 days out of a 5 gal bucket of Reading nut. Not sure that a barro will make much difference for me.

VigIIPeaBurner · Post by **VigIIPeaBurner** » Wed. Feb. 27, 2019 9:05 pm

Sunny Boy wrote: ↑
Wed. Feb. 27, 2019 8:30 am
I would think that adding baro to a bi-metallic controlled stove would help if you live in a windy spot.

If set correctly with a mano, a baro reacts to draft pressure changes faster than a bi-metallic can. Wouldn't it smooth out the wind pressure swings so that a bi-metallic can better do it's job ?

Paul

It might smooth out the surges. I've heard a few Vigilant owners run with both. I've never seen the need for a baro like what's needed on a full-on burn like an oil burner.

My take after running this stove for nearly 2 decades is that in the case of the batch-burning 2310 the draft and what ever the extra flow is when the stove cools slightly is an advantage. My draft runs -0.10 but I've never attempted to measure the flow (Dwyer 460). The extra air flow increases the rate of burn in the existing bed and helps return it to the set heat output. The increased heat caused by the extra flow starts distilling the new coal charge quickly and pulls extra O2 in the combustion air past the ash/burn zone burning the CO from the new coal rapidly to CO2 - blue flames appear quickly (if not immediately) and I set the bypass damper a few minutes after dumping a full hod of new coal. No back puffs. When the wind kicks up on this hill, I do not often notice much over-shooting. It might occur if I let the burn zone thin too much and partially ash out. Normal tending maintains stove temps within a ~50* range if I leave the setting alone.

ratherbeflying · Post by **ratherbeflying** » Fri. Mar. 01, 2019 1:24 pm

ok i think im going to just start with a baro and see where that gets me... i would imagine i would be covering it often for reloading and for low draft warm day situations... tinfoil is really the best solution? i figured they would make a cap for that.? dont they make caps? if i burn wood shouldnt i take out the damper door so it doesnt get covered with creosote; can it be easily removed?

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Fri. Mar. 01, 2019 1:59 pm

I can see the aluminum foil may become a pain,....literally.

When I plumbed the base heater into the central chimney, I didn't need to run the oil furnace, except a couple of times when the temps got way below zero. So, I close off the baro with a piece of galvanized sheet metal held on to the baro's opening flange with two metal spring clamps - one at 12 o'clock position and the other at 6.

I can quickly remove it just by taking off one clamp and use it to hold the sheet metal while I undo the other clamp. Reverse the procedure to put it back on. That way I'm not having to risk handling anything that may be hot.

Paul

VigIIPeaBurner · Post by **VigIIPeaBurner** » Sat. Mar. 02, 2019 7:14 pm

RBF, you can have a local tin-knocker to make a cover to place over the baro. That would be the best way when burning wood as you best not have a creosote fire with a baro installed. With a baro, there's no way to stop the air supply to a chimney fire. I'd be concerned about using tin foil for this reason, stuff happens!