anyone running with OUT a barro?

LouNY · Post by **LouNY** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 7:41 am

No barometric dampeners on my insert, ran one for 3-4 years.
It was difficult to install with the insert and seemed to start sticking open quite often.
Haven't used one in a few years now, occasionally I will have a day when I have difficulty
adjusting my air but not often.
I do wish it had a bi-metallic air control.

ratherbeflying · Post by **ratherbeflying** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 8:54 am

i have a gibraltar mcc. i would much rather a bimetallic primary control also! anyone know of a kit that would work?

CoalisCoolxWarm · Post by **CoalisCoolxWarm** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 11:02 am

Imagine if you could adjust your MPD 100 times a minute to the precise 'perfect' location.

A baro is sort of like that, when properly adjusted.

It can give the fire more breath when it needs it, less when it doesn't.

A KEY DIFFERENCE, though....a baro doesn't "hold back" a fire. You MUST use your incoming air vents to do that. If you have a leaky or non-sealed unit you might have trouble using only a baro.

Bubbalowe · Post by **Bubbalowe** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 12:46 pm

With VC 2310 I can hear the inlet damper closing on windy nights when set low and damper taps stove body. It's performing same function as a baro dampener on inlet side.

charlesosborne2002 · Post by **charlesosborne2002** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 1:42 pm

Ah--makes sense. If the wind causes sudden pull on draft, the delicately balanced flap is pulled closed to stop upward air increase.

I wonder if a baro in the flue, letting all that fresh oxygen in, would make a bigger bang if there is puffback. I have heard they are a hazard for that reason when burning wood because of creosote fires in the chimney.

Bubbalowe wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 12:46 pm
With VC 2310 I can hear the inlet damper closing on windy nights when set low and damper taps stove body. It's performing same function as a baro dampener on inlet side.

charlesosborne2002 · Post by **charlesosborne2002** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 1:48 pm

charlesosborne2002 wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 1:42 pm
Ah--makes sense. If the wind causes sudden pull on draft, the delicately balanced flap is pulled closed to stop upward air increase. I don't hear it because I have a big kettle on top, which makes sounds of its own.

'Twas the night before Christmas, and all through the house,
Not a creature was stirring, not even a primary air flap.

ratherbeflying · Post by **ratherbeflying** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 2:37 pm

so no one knows about a bi metallic primary control kit?

charlesosborne2002 · Post by **charlesosborne2002** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 3:51 pm

does anyone have a kit for me to install one of those?

If this is the Gibraltar, the model I have seen online does not have a place for a a bimetalic thermostat. The primary air enters through holes below the front door, while the thermostat has a flap that opens and closes over a single primary air tube in the back, admitting air below the grates.

The place in back for blower does not affect combustion air.

ratherbeflying wrote: ↑
Tue. Dec. 11, 2018 11:15 am
so i should go with the RC? i hope i could fit it into my configuration, its a little weird, my stove pipe is actually 3 elbows.... and a bi metallic, does anyone have a kit for me to install one of those? my last question is a blower... my stove has a spot on the back for one but i dont have one and was wondering how to find out what one to buy and where to buy?

ratherbeflying · Post by **ratherbeflying** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 4:04 pm

charlesosborne2002 wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 3:51 pm
does anyone have a kit for me to install one of those?

If this is the Gibraltar, the model I have seen online does not have a place for a a bimetalic thermostat. The primary air enters through holes below the front door, while the thermostat has a flap that opens and closes over a single primary air tube in the back, admitting air below the grates.

The place in back for blower does not affect combustion air.

totally correct, i was figuring i would have to make a hole in the ash area to make installation possible....

Post by **Lightning** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 5:29 pm

I think you'll find that if you install a baro, you won't need to modify/construct a bi metallic primary air damper. With a steady draft pressure, you will be able to manually control the primary air to give you the heat output that you want and it will stay there until the fuel bed starts to become depleted OR ash bounding restricts combustion air flow.

Post by **Lightning** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 5:36 pm

See the 259 and 190? Those measurements are a direct result of the fire's heat output. Those numbers have also hovered there for about 20 hours only varying a few degrees. This is a what the baro does. It stabilizes the draft which in turn stabilizes the incoming combustion air. Then you have smooth steady heat output.

corey · Post by **corey** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 8:10 pm

Lightning wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 5:29 pm
I think you'll find that if you install a baro, you won't need to modify/construct a bi metallic primary air damper. With a steady draft pressure, you will be able to manually control the primary air to give you the heat output that you want and it will stay there until the fuel bed starts to become depleted OR ash bounding restricts combustion air flow.

+1 on that statement.

ratherbeflying · Post by **ratherbeflying** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 9:44 pm

well lightening, you just saved me from drilling into my Gibraltar lol im guessing the 259 is stove top and the 190 is side or pipe? i have to ask what are the other numbers?? and i see your draft is .035, that mano seems to be easier to read between the lines then the almighty mark II 25. ill be purchasing the baro soon enough, i need to shut down for that one, and try to figure out how and where on the "pipe" to install since my pipe is literally only 3 elbows connected together.. should be fun lol but what would u recommend the RC or the MC? i hear mixed about what i should purchase

Post by **Lightning** » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 10:23 pm

ratherbeflying wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 9:44 pm
im guessing the 259 is stove top and the 190 is side or pipe? i have to ask what are the other numbers?

259 is the face of the furnace above the load door. 190 is the top side of the stove pipe roughly a foot and a half from the furnace outlet.114 is the temp of the preheated domestic hot water loop. 107 is the current temp of the warm air supply to the living space.

ratherbeflying wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 9:44 pm
and i see your draft is .035, that mano seems to be easier to read between the lines then the almighty mark II 25.

I had a Mark II before the Magnehelic. I like the Mark II very simple and reliable mano, just be sure to "zero" it once in a while.

ratherbeflying wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 9:44 pm
what would u recommend the RC or the MC?

I've always used the RC baro. It seems to be the most trouble free and accurate baro we can use

ratherbeflying · Post by **ratherbeflying** » Thu. Dec. 13, 2018 6:29 am

thank you!!

anyone running with OUT a barro?

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