Griddle handle for VC

It seemed odd to me that the Vigilant II coal stove does not have a handle for lifting the griddle--and the fall-away handle for the front and the damper does not fit either. I see various handles on eBay--some specify models and some don't. I think all that matters is that it fit the hole in the griddle tongue. I was going to buy hardware parts to make something, but it turns out they do make handles--not cheap (who would have thunk?)

Here is one version. pictured. This seems to be an appropriate design, but the griddle is the hottest part--will the wood get too hot to handle?

I made a spring-type handle for the damper handle (a machine screw that fits, and a spring handle). But I wonder if the metal spring would get too hot on the griddle handle.

Some VC fall-away handles have a griddle lifter at the end--good idea, but that hook does not seem to be available by itself. (I have the fall-away handle in porcelain that came with the stove.)

I keep a potholder nearby for the griddle, beside the fall-away handle, so a griddle handle is not necessary--but still... I have a burn on my thumb from touching the hot part of the handle.

Currently using welding gloves to lift griddle when adding coal. My old Encore came with a griddle handle like pictured. Maybe thinking is higher temps were reason to omit because of wood burning? I've been considering a spring type handle from another application, bending and adding threads, just haven't found one cheap enough. Looked at Chinese chipping hammers but would like to get something slightly smaller.

Vig ll is very adept at using just the standard handle, but I am not.

What i did was bolt on a a right angle piece with a hole for the standard handle. Works ok but the screw loosens periodically.

When I broke the porcelain handle the first day, I found online a 2.5 " chrome spring ($13.95) and a 3" machine screw 1/4 inch 20 thread (17 cents)--fit right into the handle fitting on the stove. A larger spring would work with longer screw if it is meant to take a 1/4 inch rod/screw, and the larger springs cost half what the short one cost. Could be a quality difference in the chrome finish--I imagine the cheap ones are just painted silver.

I do use fireplace gloves too--but the only time I really need something is when I open and close the griddle. I can slice and load with bare hands.

Bubbalowe wrote: ↑

Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 10:43 am

Currently using welding gloves to lift griddle when adding coal. My old Encore came with a griddle handle like pictured. Maybe thinking is higher temps were reason to omit because of wood burning? I've been considering a spring type handle from another application, bending and adding threads, just haven't found one cheap enough. Looked at Chinese chipping hammers but would like to get something slightly smaller.

OK, I think I might just do that--why they did not make it work with the standard fall-away handle is a mystery--or at least put the griddle hook at the other end of that handle. Well, I agree about using the standard handle for it--easy to lift, but not to lower...

Your method removes any issues about the handle getting hot. Seems like there should be a place for the handle to stay when not in use. Mine just sits on the warming shelf, but the porcelain breaks apart if it falls (tile floor). We broke one the day the stove was installed, and I replaced that one with a spring handle (use it on the damper handle, screwed in).

There is a spot intende to store the handle. Look just behind the right hand front leg. There is a piece of metal with a hole for the handle to stick out 90 degrees to the stove.

The porcelain damper handle is ill conceived, broke when wife assembled and she felt bad. Went and bought an overpriced replacement and I broke it, wife vindicated. Has a chamfered hole and a countersunk screw, acts like a log splitter. Found $2.00 oyster shucking knife at Ollie's, pulled blade and drilled through hole, works great and looks good.

I did find replacement porcelain online for $6, but the spring handle fits the same threaded rod and is both cooler and more durable. The chrome matches the stove hardware. The 2.5" spring fits the 3" standard rod.
I don't understand how the shucking blade works...

Bubbalowe wrote: ↑

Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 1:55 pm

The porcelain damper handle is ill conceived, broke when wife assembled and she felt bad. Went and bought an overpriced replacement and I broke it, wife vindicated. Has a chamfered hole and a countersunk screw, acts like a log splitter. Found $2.00 oyster shucking knife at Ollie's, pulled blade and drilled through hole, works great and looks good.

I did find replacement porcelain online for $6, but the spring handle fits the same threaded rod and is both cooler and more durable. The chrome matches the stove hardware. The 2.5" spring fits the 3" standard rod.
I don't understand how the shucking blade works...

Bubbalowe wrote: ↑

Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 1:55 pm

The porcelain damper handle is ill conceived, broke when wife assembled and she felt bad. Went and bought an overpriced replacement and I broke it, wife vindicated. Has a chamfered hole and a countersunk screw, acts like a log splitter. Found $2.00 oyster shucking knife at Ollie's, pulled blade and drilled through hole, works great and looks good.

franco b wrote: ↑

Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 1:33 pm

There is a spot intende to store the handle. Look just behind the right hand front leg. There is a piece of metal with a hole for the handle to stick out 90 degrees to the stove.

"There is a spot intende to store the handle. Look just behind the right hand front leg. There is a piece of metal with a hole for the handle to stick out 90 degrees to the stove."

Aha! I thought that was for the shaker handle, so it won't get hot, but it sticks out too far and it is not so hot anyway. Now I see it is good for the porcelain handle.

Not thew whole knife, just the handle. I've got a lathe and could spin one out but found this too be way easier, pride myself in my laziness.

So that is a wooden handle for the front doors--it does not get too hot to handle? I tried a steel spring handle there it was too hot to handle. Porcelain, same thing. I assume that is why they made the fall-away handle part.

Bubbalowe wrote: ↑

Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 5:19 pm

Not thew whole knife, just the handle. I've got a lathe and could spin one out but found this too be way easier, pride myself in my laziness.

Your griddle handle problem is what coal kitchen range owners have been dealing with for over 100 years when loading coal in through the top plates right over the firebox.

These coil wire handle stay surprisingly comfortable to grab with bare hands even though many of we range owners store the handle stuck in the lifting-holes of the very hot top plates - some of which are running 600-700 F when cooking.

https://www.mw-ind.com/product-types/spring-stove-handles/

You can see pix of that type handle on my range in the "Cookin' With Coal" thread.

The GW base heaters use a smaller version of those coil wire handles attached to the loading door latch handle. That door is right above the firebed level and often running 500-600 degrees, but, even though that little coil wire is only an inch or so from that hot door, it can be used to open the loading door without need for gloves.

I put one of the larger model coil wire handles on the GW #6 short direct draft damper lever, because that is one of the hottest points on the stove and that level will burn bare fingers. However, the handle does not get hot.

Paul

That looks like a good source--I already bought one of those elsewhere. I may try one on the front doors.

Sunny Boy wrote: ↑

Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 6:27 pm

Your griddle handle problem is what coal kitchen range owners have been dealing with for over 100 years when loading coal in through the top plates right over the firebox.

These coil wire handle stay surprisingly comfortable to grab with bare hands even though many of we range owners store the handle stuck in the lifting-holes of the very hot top plates - some of which are running 600-700 F when cooking.

https://www.mw-ind.com/product-types/spring-stove-handles/

You can see pix of that type handle on my range in the "Cookin' With Coal" thread.

The GW base heaters use a smaller version of those coil wire handles attached to the loading door latch handle. That door is right above the firebed level and often running 500-600 degrees, but, even though that little coil wire is only an inch or so from that hot door, it can be used to open the loading door without need for gloves.

I put one of the larger model coil wire handles on the GW #6 short direct draft damper lever, because that is one of the hottest points on the stove and that level will burn bare fingers. However, the handle does not get hot.

Paul