Vigilant Stove question

Hi folks. Newbie here. Just bought a house with an old VC Vigilant. Not sure if its vigilant 1 or 2. I tried burning a few times and I cant get the coal to really burn hot and long.

So ive been reading and i bought a new gasket kit im going try to make sure im completely sealed up. I also took apart the grate to make sure the bituminous plate was removed. I took the other three plates off that were there to clean behind. Im assuming those are always supposed to be in place?

I’m trying to understand where the air comes in under the coal bed? From the left side plate that was removed? Seems like those side plates should also not be there?

Thanks for your help and any tips are appreciated.

Also as a note im burning the coal that was left in the old bin. The previous owner was an old man and not very mobile so i assume he hadn’t burned in years. Its dry but Im not sure if thats working against me as well.

More photos would help; not sure which model you have there. I have two Vigilant models, and both get the under fire air from the vent in the back. The side openings are clean outs for the hot air chambers that extract the heat. Keep closed except for cleaning.

That appears to be the latest model. The clean out plates go back in. You are missing the corner bricks on each side. You can use standar split brick there, and taper half way up.

Show us a picture of the rest of the parts so we can see if anything is missing.

Sorry the pics arent great. I installed new gasket on the doors and cleaned the entire thing. I cleaned the entire thing. Inside and out. Also i cemented the seams. When i would start a fire before my chimney was primed it would come out of the seems so i ran a bead of stove cement along the entire seam.

I dont have any corner bricks but i have two bricks on each side.

Also the top center metal under the damper appears warped.

You need a new front grill. About $60 from Woodman's Parts.

Without the corner bricks, ash and unburned coal will accumulate there.

You might try opening a window a bit to cure that reverse draft. I assume it goes away once heat builds in the chimney.

Get a CO detector.

Load at least to the top level of the front grill. A nut coal fire that thin will go out. Pea size might work that thin.

The warped part is common and also available.

When i fill to the top and close the door the fire dies out every time. I have the thermostat open all the way.

Not sure what im doing wrong, if i get the coal going fill to the top and shut the door the fire dies out. If i open the ash door it will start right back up.

Btw what is wrong with the front grill?

TigerLab wrote: ↑

Sun. Nov. 18, 2018 9:39 pm

Btw what is wrong with the front grill?

In the picture the grill is distorted; it may be the picture is distorted..

The fire dying from lack of air has to be checked out. Is the air flap open on the back of the stove? Take a light and opening the flap look for obstruction. That passage must be clear to the opening under the grates.

In the picture included the air opening for air is the one on back left. I am concerned that on removing what you thought was a restrictor plate, might have unscrewed the air passage tube. Why would there be a restrictor plate if the previous user had burned anthracite successfully?

I didnt remove the plate it was already removed. The flap is open and if I shine a light i can see through.

It’s possible my coal is very old. I dont know if that matters or not. Maybe i should try with a fresh bag.

Old coal...no problem. But...the opening on the right is a clean out. Put the cover plate back on that. I can see the shadow of it having been there. The one on the left is air intake. Air intake appears covered, which would produce the results you describe.

franco b wrote: ↑

Sun. Nov. 18, 2018 3:20 pm

That appears to be the latest model. The clean out plates go back in. You are missing the corner bricks on each side. You can use standar split brick there, and taper half way up.

Show us a picture of the rest of the parts so we can see if anything is missing.

Knocked a corner fill brick loose with coal shovel, only held in place with furnace cement on bottom and side. Bad idea thinking you can chip old cement from brick, broke in 3 pieces. Cheapest one on internet was $60.00 to door in 2 days and looks more porous than what came with stove. Are you saying cut a half brick with tile saw to shape? A lot of standard fire brick/ refractory shapes but haven't found these except overpriced stove supply stores.

I put all the cleanouts back in. But left open the plate with the one screw which is supposed to be open on the back left. I can shine a flashlight through to the flap hole on the back.

Im really puzzled why my fire dies. I could have blue dancing flames and close the doors and ash door and it eventually fizzles out. With damper open or closed.

Do you have the plate which covers the front opening to the grates? The plate you would have to remove to knife the grates from below?

Three cleanout plates?

My guess is that you are not letting your base get hot enough before adding coal. Let it get going really good before adding coal.
Add a little at a time and let it catch REALLY good before you you add more. Not just a few "dancing blue" flames but really going good.
Your comments lead me to believe you don't have a good chimney draft. So you need to heat up that chimney as well as getting the coals burning.
Be patient.
GET A CO2 DETECTOR!!

BTW-the coal we burn is millions of years old.