Vigilant Stove question
- VigIIPeaBurner
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Casting Vigilant II 2310
- Other Heating: #2 Oil Furnace
COB, your questions' answers all depend on the qualities of the coal you're burning. Many breakers blend coal from different mines at different times of the year. It something you have to experiment with but yes, I use the temp on the griddle to guestimate what's going on above the grates. Trouble is, you don't know until the grates start to ash up. It's analogous to how different species of fish take the baited hook - you feel it through the pole. In our case, you feel the fused ash, rocks, or clinkers in the shaker handle and the slicing knife.
- VigIIPeaBurner
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charlesosborne2002 , I forgot to answer this question and it's been on my mind to answer it for a whilecharlesosborne2002 wrote: ↑Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 9:57 am... Also--you don't do the bit of leaving a corner of coals exposed when adding coal?
I've found that i don't need to leave a corner unexposed because our stove's front grill leaves the side of the fire exposed. I make certain the bed is hot and growing when when I dump a hod on top. I usually stay with the stove for a minute or so until a flame starts to lick up the front of the grill. Pretty quickly that flame lights the gasses above the new coal. Over the years I've had a few minor puff backs by leaving the ash door open too long without a flame appearing from below.
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Thanks, VigII--I noticed that recently in a post of yours, and I tried it. It worked fine. I too thought about the exposed fire on the front grill. Do you wait for the blue flames before closing the ash door and the damper?
- VigIIPeaBurner
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Casting Vigilant II 2310
- Other Heating: #2 Oil Furnace
Yes, I wait until there's some blue flame above the coal bed before closing the ash door. I'll watch to make sure the flame thrives before closing the damper. However long it takes to thrive is dependent on draft and and chimney temperature.
When the grill flame is lazy I'll do something a little risky. I'll lift the griddle just the smallest amount and blow under the griddle - don't get too close That pushes enough of the coal gas down into the flame and adds enough oxygen above to set the flames above the coal bed.
When the grill flame is lazy I'll do something a little risky. I'll lift the griddle just the smallest amount and blow under the griddle - don't get too close That pushes enough of the coal gas down into the flame and adds enough oxygen above to set the flames above the coal bed.
- CoalHeat
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Nice! Those stoves can really throw some heat too!
- Rich W.
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TL...I don’t see any answers to your temp question. I don’t think there is an ideal temp for either. It depends on your need for heat. But...I think there’s an ideal relationship between griddle temp and stove pipe temp. The way our stoves work, the heat is extracted as the exhaust gas wends its way through the passages in the body of the stove. So...for example...if your griddle is 400* and your pipe is <200*, then your heat is going into the room, and not up the chimney. Individual results will vary.
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I have double-wall stove pipe, so the reading with IR thermometer is not very informative for me...Rich W. wrote: ↑Fri. Oct. 18, 2019 5:59 pmTL...I don’t see any answers to your temp question. I don’t think there is an ideal temp for either. It depends on your need for heat. But...I think there’s an ideal relationship between griddle temp and stove pipe temp. The way our stoves work, the heat is extracted as the exhaust gas wends its way through the passages in the body of the stove. So...for example...if your griddle is 400* and your pipe is <200*, then your heat is going into the room, and not up the chimney. Individual results will vary.
- VigIIPeaBurner
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- Posts: 2579
- Joined: Fri. Jan. 11, 2008 10:49 am
- Location: Pequest River Valley, Warren Co NJ
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker Koker(down)
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Casting Vigilant II 2310
- Other Heating: #2 Oil Furnace
I left about a 6" section of single wall nearest to the chimney support where the SS chimney starts. That's where I take my IR temperature readings. You could add a brass compression fitting to the inside pipe and use a thermal thermometer probe of any kind. That would be the most accurate reading too.charlesosborne2002 wrote: ↑Fri. Oct. 18, 2019 6:09 pmI have double-wall stove pipe, so the reading with IR thermometer is not very informative for me...
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I love reading these threads where people get their stove/furnace working.