Stove pipe questions.

 
Hoytman
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:30 pm

I'm in need of a new stove pipe set-up, from the top of the stove to thimble. For grins and giggles we are going to pretend this is for a coal stove since I'm planning on switching to anthracite and I don't dare mention that other 4 letter word for fuel that I will be using temporarily. This will only be used a short time this way...lol...so I don't have to buy the best quality pipe out there, just something safe enough to feel confident.

Now, the existing 6" pipe was put in by my cousin...I had nothing to do with setting this up. It's only had 4 or 5 fires in it and may even be "good enough". It was purchased at TSC.

Here's the specifics...
- 7" I.D. on the stove collar
- 8 1/4" clay thimble ... seems odd size to me rather than being 8", but I checked ... it's 8 1/4" oddly enough.

Here's the issue...
- 6" to 8" increaser from pipe to thimble has a gap that needs to be filled as pipe can fall away from wall some.

- pipe leaks smoke at joints because each piece fits down into the next instead of over-top of the piece below as you go up, like it was all put in upside down.

- The way pipe is now put together as the smoke rises it makes contact with the next piece above it and forms creosote in these spots.

- It seems people interchange "reducers" and "increasers" and to me this just seems ... as my granny would say, "bassackards". This just seems wrong to me and from what I've seen ... if you look closely they are different ... at least the stuff from Rural King was ... and they were selling both ... "reducers" and "increasers"... which is good. However, I've never seen an "increaser" at TSC.



Questions ...
(Seems like common sense, but I thought I'd ask since my experience using a stove isn't much.)

- Since I don't feel confident with the pipe from TSC, even though it's in new condition, I'd like to know where you guys get your single wall stove pipe and connections from. (I guess that was more of a statement than a question...lol.)

- Do y'all feel there's a correct stove pipe orientation, or do you just slap it together?


 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:41 pm

Pipes are normally arranged so that condensation can not run down the pipe and leak out at the joint. So the "proper" (I use that term loosely) is to start with the male (crimped) end goes into the stove first and the next section of pipe will go in the same way with the crimped end facing the stove. Negative pressure in the stove pipe will prevent the escape of gases (smoke) from leaking out of the pipe. You don't want condensation running out of the joints. That will make a stinky mess.

 
Hoytman
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:44 pm

The way my pipe is right now, I feel everything is oriented upside down. The smoke can rise right up and out of the stove pipe as it rises. That just seems wrong ... and it smells that way too. LOL!!

I think mine switch back and forth rather than all being oriented in one direction.

I don't know if you guys can see how the pipe is oriented, but here's a link ... maybe some of you can figure out how to blow the picture up big enough to see it. I'm lucky to type on the forum ... lol. A Place for a New Stove (Pics)
Last edited by Hoytman on Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:46 pm

Okay, well when does that happen? While starting a new fire with a cold chimney? Or upon reloading while the load door is open? Or is it leaking all the time?

If it's leaking all time you have a draft problem.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:55 pm

Hoytman wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:30 pm
Here's the issue...
- 6" to 8" increaser from pipe to thimble has a gap that needs to be filled as pipe can fall away from wall some.
Any gaps at the thimble can be stuffed with fiberglass insulation. If the pipe is falling away from the thimble you may need a couple straps to suspend the pipe with to stabilize it.
Last edited by Lightning on Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
Hoytman
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:56 pm

When the stove is hot I don't think it's leaking...I just feel like it is.

-I just disassembled everything today and shoved some insulation in the hole.

-Took off the doors to clean and replace the gaskets. Someone put a flat gasket where a round gasket channel...and it was 3/4" wide where the channel was only 3/8" tall and 3/16" deep. According to my research, that calls for a 3/8" round gasket.

-Glass gaskets are likely the same way.

-Smoke deflector is hanging ... one side the weld give way. Other than pulling the stove outside to weld it up ... I can weld it, but don't have a welder ... I don't know how to fix it other than welding or using jb weld on it.

-draft seems good when I've got dried wood ... even with crappy gaskets. Will replace with proper size and check with a dollar bill.

 
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:58 pm

Lightning wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:55 pm
Any gaps at the thimble can be stuffed with fiberglass insulation.
You're kidding! Well, I have some Owens Corning pink, but wouldn't some Rutland cement in a caulk tube with 2000* temp rating be better or at least closer to code?


 
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:00 pm

I'm going to buy a Manometer too...I'll need it for my black rock stove when I get one anyhow. Just need to figure out which one is best to get. That's on my "before" Christmas bucket list...the mano and the stove. LOL!

 
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:03 pm

If you look at the white ring at the thimble in the picture; that is Rutland white cement my cousin squeezed into that gap. Actually, it was just cosmetic and the thimble came out rather easily and just crumbled. I thought it should have been a little harder to get out myself...at least harder than it was.

The way the pipe is oriented I guess my common sense logic was off because I think at least most of it would allow any liquid to run into the stove rather than leak out. However, with the gap at that thimble somehow I don't think it would even make it to the pipe...but would run down the wall.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:10 pm

Hoytman wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:58 pm
You're kidding! Well, I have some Owens Corning pink, but wouldn't some Rutland cement in a caulk tube with 2000* temp rating be better or at least closer to code?
Nope, true story :) Fiberglass is good for extremely high temps, I use it inside the fire box to seal up air bypasses. It doesn't burn.

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Hoytman
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:21 pm

Lightning wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:10 pm
Nope, true story :) Fiberglass is good for extremely high temps, I use it inside the fire box to seal up air bypasses. It doesn't burn.
:oops: I guess I knew that, but I sure didn't remember it. Where's my ginko biloba?? LOL! I'm too young for such a short memory.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:25 pm

Pink will work fine--I would get a 7" to 6" reducer at the stove & run straight black 6" to the thimble

 
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:33 pm

Hoytman wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:03 pm
However, with the gap at that thimble somehow I don't think it would even make it to the pipe...but would run down the wall.
That's true but, condensation will also occur in the pipe before it gets to the chimney and you don't want it running out of the joints. Been there done that, it stinks and it's a mess lol.

 
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:36 pm

Also, don't put any screws at the absolute lowest point on the pipe. They also make good places for condensation to leak out.

 
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Post by franco b » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:42 pm

Run a hot clean fire with well seasoned wood and feed frequently, or get a better wood stove. The nature of wood precludes holding a fire by air starvation, unless it is thoroughly in the charcoal stage.


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