Stove pipe questions.

 
Hoytman
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:45 pm

I'm going to buy a new reducer...as the one that's on it is old and there's several screws holding a couple and straight sections into that reducer...about 5 of them. The damper is inside that reducer as well...just above the stove top.

I wish I could put a black rock stove in it's place right now. House hasn't sold yet...likely won't until spring. I don't have much wood stacked up...and hate to buy any, but I'm going to have to I guess. I have several large dead ash trees across the creek, but no dozer to get to them.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:50 pm

franco b wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:42 pm
Run a hot clean fire with well seasoned wood and feed frequently, or get a better wood stove. The nature of wood precludes holding a fire by air starvation, unless it is thoroughly in the charcoal stage.
Good advice Franco, during my fiasco with condensation oozing out of the pipe I was burning wet punky/rotten crap wood lol

 
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Jjones6840
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Post by Jjones6840 » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:58 pm

Hoytman wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 6:56 pm
When the stove is hot I don't think it's leaking...I just feel like it is.

Hold a lighter near the joints when it’s lit. If the flame goes to the pipe, then your pipe isn’t airtight. A thin coat of furnace cement can solve that

-

 
Hoytman
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Coal Size/Type: nut coal
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 8:02 pm

franco b wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:42 pm
Run a hot clean fire with well seasoned wood and feed frequently, or get a better wood stove. The nature of wood precludes holding a fire by air starvation, unless it is thoroughly in the charcoal stage.
I like to burn wood that's been stacked for at least 2 years or more...preferably 3-5...and kept dry. Good luck with that and buying it from someone else. I wanted a new wood stove until I joined here. I'm going black rocks all the way now. Was hoping to have switched already. However, I want this thing ready in case the power goes down. I may buy some wood, but I'm not buying a wood stove.

At 46...with back issues...thinking of needing to buy a new saw...maintenance on that saw...a better and bigger truck to get to the wood...all that handling a re-handling of the wood...dry storage...and time that seems like is going by faster each year...the black rocks just make more sense at this stage of my life.

I couldn't burn it at all last year because my wood was too wet. Bad year to have wet wood. I spent north of $2000 for oil last year. I didn't buy wood because I kept hoping the cold wouldn't be that long or that bad. Health issues kept me from being able to cut wood then and this past summer...and had the wood to cut too. That was the bad part. Feeling better now...lost nearly 35 lbs. and blood pressure coming back in line. No fun laying in a hospital with BP over 237 and your nurse shaking his head after giving you 3 nitro's under your tongue and it keeps rising...you know when you see the head shake if it goes higher you're heading for disaster. I wasn't brave enough to ask them how high it got. I am feeling better, working some on the chicken coop and feel like I could cut some wood, but don't want to push it too fast or hard just yet. Main thing is to lose more weight and get healthy again for my wife and young son. Scares me much to think about leaving here before I'm old and he's older.
Last edited by Hoytman on Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 8:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.


 
Hoytman
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Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
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Coal Size/Type: nut coal
Other Heating: electric, wood, oil

Post by Hoytman » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 8:02 pm

Jjones6840 wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:58 pm
Will do. Thanks!

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 9:48 pm

With coal you will handle once to feed the fire and that will be half the weight and bulk of wood. The ash will be considerably more. A small amount of healthy exercise, but not too much. That, coupled with proper weight and decent eating habits are your best bets for good health.

Peace of mind is also an important health issue. The annoyances of wet wood, or trudging through snow, and trying to burn overnight will all be gone.

RX, burn coal.

 
CapeCoaler
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Post by CapeCoaler » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 9:41 am

Slow and steady will get you to your happy place...
Reduce the stress in your life...
Both physical and mental...
Spent 8 days in ICU and another week in the regular hospital room...
Just to be able to walk 300 feet before they kicked me out...
3 kids and wife are strong motivators...
Work smart not hard with the back...
Hand truck the coal if need be...

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 10:42 am

FYI. Standard fiberglass insulation can melt about the boiling temp of water (212F), though it does not burn.

ROCKWOOL, on the other hand holds up to 250C before it loses it's binding agents, then something like 1000C+ it is safe.

Use Rockwool if you must ;)

Rutland furnace cement is great filler and sealer. Can be putty knifed into seams and cracks, and once cured can usually be chipped out by tapping the pipe. I've never tried removing "fresh" furnace cement, though ;)

Your chimney should ALWAYS be a negative pressure (draft). It is not uncommon to have to kickstart a chimney's draft when lighting a fire. A couple of wadded up pieces of newspaper burns hot and without much smoke.

It also burns out quickly, allowing for convenient fire lighting.

Just watch it doesn't get sucked up and ejected out the chimney! LOL.


 
Bubbalowe
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Post by Bubbalowe » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 12:45 pm

Lightning wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:10 pm
Nope, true story :) Fiberglass is good for extremely high temps, I use it inside the fire box to seal up air bypasses. It doesn't burn.
I've used whole caulk tubes of Rutland furnace cement and mixed in pink / yellow fiberglass to pack around steel furnace pipe going into mortar collars, keeps the cement from falling out of large gaps and make for an airtight connection. Think of fiber reinforced concrete.

 
Hoytman
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Post by Hoytman » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 8:35 pm

Do any of you have any recommendations or preferences for where you buy your stove pipe?

Some of the single wall black pipe I seen at Rural King was crimped. Some of the pipe I seen at TSC was riveted together, so there had to be put together by matching up the grooves. I have no idea if these places sell decent stove pipe or not since I haven't looked at it from anywhere else, or from a place that is known for selling quality stove pipe materials.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 8:43 pm

Lightning wrote:
Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:10 pm
Nope, true story :) Fiberglass is good for extremely high temps, I use it inside the fire box to seal up air bypasses. It doesn't burn.
I use fiberglass as well.

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 8:45 pm

Actually surprised last week to find Imperial brand 24 gauge black single wall stove pipe at Lowes, including TEE!

The cap wasn't crimped, but that only took about 30 secs to crimp about 20% so it worked to plug my top cleanout side of my tee. Overall, quite pleased with it!

I used 8 inch, Tee, 24" straight (which snapped together solidly and easily), and the cap.

It cut nicely with cutoff wheel to attach the barometric damper saddle adapter.

Felt solid when drilling for screws, too.

 
CapeCoaler
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Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove

Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 9:12 pm

You can mix in bronze wool as a backer...
No rust or melting worries...

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