fired up the hitzer today

 
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Spacecadet
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Post by Spacecadet » Mon. Oct. 29, 2018 12:40 am

Well I got the Hitzer finally installed and fired up today. Sealed the stove pipes, installed the manometer and calibrated it and the Baro. What a fun strange trip its been.. The Dwyer mark ii 25 was simple to install. However the rubber hose it came with was a waste of time - melted the end of the hose 30 minutes into fire up. So I replaced it with a section of 3/16 brake line. I found the chimney pulls .01 with out the stove lite and 3-5 when it is. I also installed the manual damper - which I'm sure won't ever get used - didn't use or even need it with the wood stove.
Trying to learn the auto air feed on the back. I have it set to where it seems is good and operational. Overall it seems like this thing is gonna be awesome! I was kinda concerned that it would be small but its not. looking forward to the easy refill and constant heat.


 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Mon. Oct. 29, 2018 6:23 am

Which one is it? 50-93 or 30-95?

 
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Spacecadet
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Post by Spacecadet » Tue. Oct. 30, 2018 2:29 am

It's the 30-95. i must admit, i'm quite impressed with it. I've got it set as low as I think I can get it and its just chugging along nicely. Occasionally you'll hear the giggle of the baro but otherwise its peacefully silent. The auto-regulator works awesome - Box temp ranges from 275-325, pulling .03-.05 on manometer with the chimney ranging in temps from 80-100.
The 50-93 is sitting in the garage all cold and lonely. After I bought it, I was thinking it could possibly be to big for my house. A day latter, I saw the 30-95 on craigslist as a deal i couldn't pass up. I bought all new glass and seal kits for both stoves. Figured if the little brother couldn't handle the job I could always install the big brother. With the heat the little guy puts out I have a feeling the 50-95 will never see the inside of the house. May install the big guy in the garage next year. This year the Alaska Channing stoker will heat the garage. I have 2 1/2 ton of rice stored for it.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Tue. Oct. 30, 2018 5:00 am

Kind of why the 254 has caught my attention;..... for use in smaller places. The smaller physical size for the low, low heat output of a 30-95. Yet more ponies IF needed. Not that the 30-95 ever lacked in performance. It's no 50-93, but does shine on the low end. If you think the 30-95 puts out a lot of heat (and it does), the 50-93 feels like double the heat output. On the flip side, the 50-93 can also be idled way, way down. Still, its bigger physical size will put out more heat at idle.

 
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Spacecadet
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Post by Spacecadet » Tue. Oct. 30, 2018 7:16 pm

I had bought the 50-93 first. I figured it could handle the worst of the worst that we get occasionally during the winter. However once I got it and realaized it's quite a big bigger than I figured. I think it would be a bit much for warmer winter weather.
I'm thinking this 30-95 won't have any trouble keeping my house nice and toasty even when Mother Nature is given us her worst.
I don't think the 30-95 would heat my garage well enough during the fridget temps. I think the 50-95 would do it a bit better but it's size is an issue for where it would be located. Either way there, I have the Alaska stoker and 2 1-2 tons of rice coal for it. So I have to use it for the season anyway.
I couldn't use a 254. I had a harman tlc2000 which was a really awesome stove. However I couldn't use it. I needed the quick easy load time of the auto feed because I do emergency service calls and when the phone rings I gotta go... and when your in the middle of loading a non auto feed stove you just can't walk away.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Tue. Oct. 30, 2018 7:48 pm

Spacecadet wrote:
Tue. Oct. 30, 2018 7:16 pm
I had bought the 50-93 first. I figured it could handle the worst of the worst that we get occasionally during the winter. However once I got it and realaized it's quite a big bigger than I figured. I think it would be a bit much for warmer winter weather.
I'm thinking this 30-95 won't have any trouble keeping my house nice and toasty even when Mother Nature is given us her worst.
I don't think the 30-95 would heat my garage well enough during the fridget temps. I think the 50-95 would do it a bit better but it's size is an issue for where it would be located. Either way there, I have the Alaska stoker and 2 1-2 tons of rice coal for it. So I have to use it for the season anyway.
I couldn't use a 254. I had a harman tlc2000 which was a really awesome stove. However I couldn't use it. I needed the quick easy load time of the auto feed because I do emergency service calls and when the phone rings I gotta go... and when your in the middle of loading a non auto feed stove you just can't walk away.
Fully understand...... When you're trying to get to work, and have to hit a time clock, or emergencies, ya don't want to be fiddling with anything.

 
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Post by nybushwacker » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 3:11 pm

Spacecadet,
Could you post a photo of the manometer setup you used? I am new to coal and had the stove installed with a baro but need to install a manometer to adjust settings on the baro. I would like to see how you set it up.
Thanks!


 
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Spacecadet
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Post by Spacecadet » Tue. Nov. 13, 2018 6:46 pm

Sure. It's a dwyer mark II model 25. It wasn't to difficult to install.
Key points to install is 'add a little red fluid' and wait. If too much gets added to fast you'll have to dump some out. (I made that mistake)
Next key point. Do not use the fittings for the rubber hose that comes with the the kit. Buy a piece 3/16 brake line longer than 12" long. The reason is the rubber hose will melt within the first 10 minutes of the stove lighting. Drill a 7/32 hole in the chimney pipe between the stove and the baro. Push the brake line into the tiny hole in the chimney about an inch or so. Attach one end of the rubber line to the brake line and the other to the low side on the manometer.
Note. Before you hook the rubber line to the Manometer adjust the thumb wheel so the red fluid sits at 0. Then hook up the hose. The chimney could have a draft without the stove being lite. Then once you light up your stove adjust the weight on the baro so it will pull about .04 draft as suggested by hitzer.
Note. The stove doesn't have to be off to hook the manometet up. Just have to be careful not to burn yourself working on and round the stove.

 
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Spacecadet
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Post by Spacecadet » Tue. Nov. 13, 2018 7:11 pm

pics of manometer baro and chimney pipe line

Attachments

dwyer.jpg
.JPG | 256.6KB | dwyer.jpg
baro.jpg
.JPG | 153.5KB | baro.jpg
chimneypipline.jpg
.JPG | 212.6KB | chimneypipline.jpg

 
nybushwacker
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Post by nybushwacker » Sat. Nov. 17, 2018 11:24 am

Spacecadet, thanks very much for the help! Hoping to get the manometer installed today while finishing up the honey do list for Thanksgiving.

 
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Fat King Coal
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Post by Fat King Coal » Sun. Nov. 18, 2018 12:12 pm

I'm glad this is recent, ive been reading posts forever and its usually a decade old info so its easier to message, but i saw a recent date here and can ask. I have the same MK II manometer but i ordered the incorrect draft measurement fitting, of course because its not the $7 one i would need, its always the $70 one ! So there are no other mods to the brake line? Just one tube (line) , open on both ends, one end inside pipe an inch or so, other in the rubber to man. low side. Is high side plugged or is that just a little vent piece in pic? I was thinking (my first mistake) that if i can use a brake line, i could probably just use the incorrect fitting i bought that measures before and after a filter per instructions if wired similar? I would have to hack off the end or find a small hose adapter because its much bigger. Should work but we'll see i guess, any guidance?

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20181118_121418.jpg
.JPG | 245.6KB | 20181118_121418.jpg

 
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Spacecadet
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Other Heating: US stove 6041 pellet

Post by Spacecadet » Thu. Nov. 22, 2018 12:31 am

A plain piece of brake line will work. There are 3 kinds of brake line now on the market. Plain steel would probably be best. The green coated line would not be good because the paint coating could burn off. And last is the newest - "easy bend" line which is steel and copper coated. I used the copper coated because that's what i had laying around. no mods needed to the brake line. And your correct, the rubber hose is smaller than the brake line - I'm sorry I forgot to mention i heated a cup of water to soften the line so it would fit over the brake line. Its only pushed on 1/8 to maybe 1/4 of an inch. Don't plug the high side, I just put a few inches of line on it so dust wouldn't drop into the fitting. The kit that came with mine didn't have a filter or the adapter you have pictured.
Hope this helps. Sorry would have replied sooner but hadn't been on

 
Shaun643
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Post by Shaun643 » Sun. Jan. 06, 2019 9:56 am

I know it's a little old.. Spacecadet I have a question for you. How many sqft is your house. Iam looking at both the 30-95 and 50-93. My house is 1500sqft I would like to use the 30-95 butiam worried I might have to run it at Max when it's cold out and I don't want to hurt the stove running it at Max

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Sun. Jan. 06, 2019 7:36 pm

get the 50-93. Especially if going in the basement.

 
Shaun643
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Post by Shaun643 » Sun. Jan. 06, 2019 9:58 pm

oliver power wrote:
Sun. Jan. 06, 2019 7:36 pm
get the 50-93. Especially if going in the basement.
I don't heat my basement my stove is on main level in the living room. Also looking at the keystoker hand fired hopper stove more output then 30-95 and has closer clearance to combustibles. Only problem only stove brand sold around me is Hitzer nothing else.


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