newbie questions, Gibraltar reviews????

awesome guys thank you.. and yes cape the baro seems it would be used as a control device, i understand how it works and why it should be used yet at the same time it does limit your stoves temp depending on how low you set it am i right? for instance if i set it super low, like say .02 could the stove ever reach 650 degrees? from what i understand it wouldnt....

Usually the baro is set and not adjusted further...
In theory it gives consistency on the draft...
This allows you to set primary air and get a reliable, reproducible burn temp...
The bi-metalic controls air by stove body temperature...
In theory it produces consistent stove body temps under varying conditions...
The reason I like the Bi-Metalic is because I can then adjust stove body temps to maintain house temps...
Based on outdoor temps...

i agree and i would love a bi-metallic also, do you know of any good kits? i understand the theory behind the baro, its finding the correct draft pressure setting that sounds like ill be fiddling around a little with it... and like i said if i have the draft setting set to open too low wouldnt that mean i would have a hard time getting the stove to scream around max temps?

ratherbeflying wrote: ↑

Sat. Nov. 17, 2018 10:07 pm

for instance if i set it super low, like say .02 could the stove ever reach 650 degrees?

That's tough to answer because there are other variables to consider like the coal size you are using and/or how well the ash is cleared at tending time. Setting the draft lower isn't always better. The weaker the draft, the more sluggish it will react to primary air changes and it will take longer for the fire to recover after tending. Plus like you said, you may not be able to get the heat output you want. A healthy draft is more desirable. In my mind that would be between -.03 and -.05 strictly.

I would do as Lightning suggested...
Usually -.04 set and walk away...
Fiddle with primary air...
There was a thread on using the DS Machine bi-metalic on a Mark II...

awesome guys thank you i can't wait to get a baro and mano and hopefully eventually a bi-metallic. any threads on how to properly install a mano? i think i have the baro figured out, i would imagine its imperative to have the baro perfectly horizontal, if it was pointing up a little i would imagine it would make the chimney in my home lol... the mano seems a little confusing... im guessing it should be installed after the baro? is it simply just one hole drilled into the stove pipe anywhere after a baro would go? do they come with everything you need or do i need to buy brake line or something?

Brake line so no melting...
Between the stove and baro...
There should be a secion on both search in upper right corner...

For the baro, get a "T" pipe to mount it to, the collar/cutting a hole in the pipe is kinda sub par. The only stipulations about mounting is that the face of it needs to be perfectly plumb (straight up and down) and the axle of the baro door needs to be perfectly level.

For the mano, I used a 12 inch section of 3/16 metal brake line for the probe. Just slip it in a slightly larger drilled hole in the pipe. The tubing from the Dwyer Mark II model 25 slips over the metal brake line nicely. Then connect the other end to the "low side" on the gage. This will give you negative pressure reading on the positive side of zero where there is more scale to work with. The probe into the pipe needs to be between the baro and stove. Keep the probe entrance up on the upper/high side of the pipe so fly ash can't fall into it. Filling the gage is a little tricky, read the instructions thoroughly and go slow.

am i aloud to paint the baro?

ratherbeflying wrote: ↑

Mon. Nov. 19, 2018 4:29 pm

am i aloud to paint the baro?

I don't see why not.

Just not the pivot points...

so at what draft would you say is "dwindling" like about to loose the fire? or what stove top or smoke pipe temp would you guys say is as low as it could go confidently? im nervous to let it go below 300 stove top and 180 smoke pipe but maybe it can go lower?

Just drop it by 25* increments...
Let it run for a day at those temps without dropping...
Each stove is different...
Should be able to get to 225*-250* ...

ill see how low i can go, the hard part is the temp outside changes where my primary air should be set to if im not mistaken. right now i have the holes about the size of a pencil at about 300 degrees, and outside temp is 40*. if the temp outside goes to 7* like it should in two days, i would imagine i would lower the slide to about half that size to maintain 300 stove temp

I have never been so complicated over burning coal in a hand stove. I set my baro to maintain .03 & the baro smooths out the wind gusts, if it gets colder outside & i need more heat, i open the primary air a bit..Easy.