Install Questions: Damper, manometer, piping termination

I've been searching for a nice heavy gauge damper in 6" for my new (to me) Alaska Kodiak and haven't seen any obvious good sources online, does anyone have any suggestions or favorite reliable resellers?

It also occurred to me that possibly someone might sell a tee pipe with integrated damper and manometer built in, but I haven't seen anything like that.

-How are folks installing their manometers, drill & tap, saddle fittings, or weld on a bung maybe?

-I'm going through block into a clay lined block chimney, is there anything special that I should do at the pipe/block interface? Like special heat tolerant mortar or something?

Thanks for any thoughts! Apologies for the newbie questions, I'm just not finding a lot regarding installation details online. This forum already saved me the expense of a stainless liner already

There's a whole thread on Manometer Install, those are sold by many different places online, Amazon, ebay, etc... usually around $30-35 for the Dwyer Mark II model 25. usually just a small hole in the pipe before the baro damper and tap the fitting into it, we usually use a piece of brake line/stainless/copper to get it away from the heat of the pipe maybe a foot or two to the rubber hose that goes to the gauge.

Manometer Install

The Baro Damper can also be found in a variety of places online, usually just install a TEE and add the baro damper, like this

https://www.patriot-supply.com/products/showitem. ... S_02722701

Dave thank you. I just hit the order button on a Dwyer Mark II Model 25 on Amazon.

After a little more research and looking at your recommendation, I ordered up a Field Controls damper, but went for the 6-RCBT because I didn't want to mess with modifying a tee. It looks like the range is a little reduced in favor of a little extra precision. I'm excited to see how this stove's going to run! Thanks again for the recommendation.

For the wall penetration I have a Hart and Cooley 6" "TLCSPA-series" stovepipe adapter on order. I still have to break open the old hole that's been sealed up, but I'm thinking I may run the inside half of a thimble or maybe none at all.. I want to get this adapter in my hands and see what it's like.

There's an installation supplement for the adapter that describes what they call a "bond beam" installation that's the closest thing I can find to the situation I have, I'll be enlarging a penetration that used to be used for oil heat exhaust.

http://www.hartandcooley.com/files/assets/files/1 ... 513621.pdf

Good luck and keep us posted. we've all been there, done that! a lot of great info on here and all us willing to help.

If buying a manual damper, get one where the shaft & handle are formed from the same piece of material (All in one). Years ago, a cheap look-alike hit the market. The handle was tack welded on the shaft, and would fall off. .......the start of the cheap junk era.