just made the switch

 
southbound1777
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: pine barren
Other Heating: oil fired boiler

Post by southbound1777 » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 10:00 am

Hi- I'm Rob, Just picked up a pine barren coal stove. Its a lil rusted but will clean up sweet..just minor surface rust, interior is solid. I've been burning wood for years and the challenges that come along with it for around 15 yrs. I recently started reading on forums the advantages of coal burning. longer burn time...little cost...no real time finding/splitting wood...cleaner...better heat...my main reason for the switch is my wife no longer comes home at lunch to stoke fire..I work an average of 12 hrs and her 8...and even with a jotul top of the line cast unless we throw green wood on a nice bed of coals it wont heat for 8 hrs...so here I am..lol

I'll post some pics of before during restore stage..I got a pic of what i have (not my pic but what I want finished product to be).

The guy that makes these has either past away or is no longer in business..gonna swing in his place next week.
Does anyone have a manual for this stove?
I think I'm gonna be burning nut coal? the grates seemed spaced pretty well? (I'll post pics later)
Thx in advance for all the questions I'll have ..lol

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lsayre
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Location: Ohio
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75

Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 10:10 am

That's a fine looking stove! Nut or stove, or a mix. Start with nut. Readily available, and most likely all you will need.

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 10:22 am

Welcome to the forum. Nice looking stove!

Good decision to move to the black rocks for heat!! :clap:

First thing to emphasize is to pile the coal on as deep as you can in the firebox once you get the coal fire started. Control the heat output of the coal fire by the amount of under fire air through your spinner knobs not by the amount of coal in the box. There are quite a few videos showing the starting techniques.

Let the fun (and warmth) begin!! :yes:

 
CorrosionMan
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Location: SE Ohio - Carrolton/Kilgore/Perrysville -- inbetween
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Hitzer 82 FA
Coal Size/Type: Reading NUT 40lb plastic bags
Other Heating: Heat Pump

Post by CorrosionMan » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 10:29 am

Welcome aboard! Keep us posted on your experiences.

 
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Lightning
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 10:46 am

Oh yeah man! You desire longer burn times? You've made the right decision. In mild cool weather even a 24 hour burn is a piece of cake. Oh, you'll never need to worry about a chimney fire again either.

Stick around and keep us posted :)

 
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Sunny Boy
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Location: Central NY
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 10:54 am

And it's got a flat "cooktop"...... very smart move !!!!! It can be an additional savings on whatever energy you use for the kitchen stove.

Cookin' With Coal

Makes for some great slow cooking too. A Dutch oven with a cast iron trivet under it and dinner will be ready when you get home from work. :yes:

Oh yeah, BTW welcome. :D

Paul

 
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D-frost
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman MK ll
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Baseburners & Antiques: Herald 'fireside oak'
Coal Size/Type: nut/stove-Blaschak/Lehigh

Post by D-frost » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 12:11 pm

southbound,
1-Welcome. Many of us are 'retired wood burners'! Got ????, just ask.
2- Looking at pic of heater, shows manual damper between 'Tee'(baro) and chimney. Many of us here would place the manual damper between the stove and the 'Tee'.
3- Nice looking stove-enjoy!
Cheers


 
southbound1777
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Joined: Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 9:44 am
Location: Columbus,NJ
Hand Fed Coal Stove: pine barren
Other Heating: oil fired boiler

Post by southbound1777 » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 12:25 pm

ok..took some pics..almost finished the prep before paint...anyone know what those 1/2" bolts are on the back of the stove? They go all the way through the stove... Also, any idea what the smaller nut n bolts are under the top cover? they also go all the way through...I thought maybe for temp guage of some sort but idk..lol

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southbound1777
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: pine barren
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Post by southbound1777 » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 12:32 pm

D-frost wrote:
Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 12:11 pm
southbound,
1-Welcome. Many of us are 'retired wood burners'! Got ????, just ask.
2- Looking at pic of heater, shows manual damper between 'Tee'(baro) and chimney. Many of us here would place the manual damper between the stove and the 'Tee'.
3- Nice looking stove-enjoy!
Cheers
good to know...thats not my stove, but the same make/model...posted that till I got pics of mine..its what I want mine to be though..lol..That was honestly gonna be a question of mine.. How to set up the baro/damper...
So, stove, damper , then baro? how far from stove to damper? how far from damper to baro?
Also, does it look like I should add brick above the other brick? theres a ledge (it holds top of lower brick) but nothing to hold the top..previous owner had brick sitting all around it...just wondering if I should do the same..
thx - Rob

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 12:38 pm

Does that stove have a heat output regulator/thermostat? It would probably look like a dial of some sort that opens and closes a flapper possibly connected to a small chain to control primary combustion air.

 
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D-frost
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Location: Southern New Hampshire
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman MK ll
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Yukon Eagle I (multi-fuel oil, wood/coal)
Baseburners & Antiques: Herald 'fireside oak'
Coal Size/Type: nut/stove-Blaschak/Lehigh

Post by D-frost » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 1:46 pm

SB,
Using 'Chubby' stove as a reference, the manual damper is built- into the exhaust on the rear vent model, to allow a baro, before entering a fireplace. So-stove, manual damper, baro, chimney.
In your installation, the distance from the stove to the chimney thimble will determine where to place the manual damper. If your thimble is 5 ft. from the floor, like the pic shown, I would place it mid-range, between the baro and stove.
Cheers

 
southbound1777
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Location: Columbus,NJ
Hand Fed Coal Stove: pine barren
Other Heating: oil fired boiler

Post by southbound1777 » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 2:45 pm

Lightning wrote:
Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 12:38 pm
Does that stove have a heat output regulator/thermostat? It would probably look like a dial of some sort that opens and closes a flapper possibly connected to a small chain to control primary combustion air.
Honestly I see nothing..it has a blower on it activated by a switch but its an aftermarket blower..maybe it had a thermostat operated one? I dont have a manual..gonna try to see if this guy is still around this week..google says store is permanently closed..maybe hes still hangin around. either way..i'll just weld everything up tight if I dont find an answer. I have no intentions of using the blower anyway.
also, nothing connected to a door for combustion air. its only got the 3 openings.
them two 1/2" bolts that somebody added are strange..they cut the chamber for the blower housing to allow access to them too..strange..I just cant think of what anyone would do that for..lol

 
southbound1777
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Posts: 19
Joined: Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 9:44 am
Location: Columbus,NJ
Hand Fed Coal Stove: pine barren
Other Heating: oil fired boiler

Post by southbound1777 » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 2:46 pm

D-frost wrote:
Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 1:46 pm
SB,
Using 'Chubby' stove as a reference, the manual damper is built- into the exhaust on the rear vent model, to allow a baro, before entering a fireplace. So-stove, manual damper, baro, chimney.
In your installation, the distance from the stove to the chimney thimble will determine where to place the manual damper. If your thimble is 5 ft. from the floor, like the pic shown, I would place it mid-range, between the baro and stove.
Cheers
cool..thx

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 4:00 pm

southbound1777 wrote:
Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 2:45 pm
nothing connected to a door for combustion air. its only got the 3 openings.
Okay, if your stove has no automatic primary combustion air thermostat you will want to use a baro to keep the draft pressure steady. That way you can manually control heat output with the "three openings" (we like to call those primary combustion air controls). Without a steady draft pressure the heat output will yo yo dramatically as the chimney heats and cools. A manual pipe damper will also control draft pressure but not as precisely as a baro.

 
southbound1777
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Posts: 19
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Location: Columbus,NJ
Hand Fed Coal Stove: pine barren
Other Heating: oil fired boiler

Post by southbound1777 » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 4:24 pm

Lightning wrote:
Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 4:00 pm
Okay, if your stove has no automatic primary combustion air thermostat you will want to use a baro to keep the draft pressure steady. That way you can manually control heat output with the "three openings" (we like to call those primary combustion air controls). Without a steady draft pressure the heat output will yo yo dramatically as the chimney heats and cools. A manual pipe damper will also control draft pressure but not as precisely as a baro.
Lol.. I meant the 3 openings being the fill door, the ash pit and the exit pipe. I'm with ya though..I'll definitely be asking about the top and bottom draft controls..the way I understand it coal sucks from the bottom to burn so use those controls. I'm still not sure when to open the top control knobs to allow air in or if I need to at all. Are they just there for wood burning? or is that something I'll learn to optimize the coal burn?
ty for help btw...much appreciated


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