just made the switch

 
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Lightning
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Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 4:35 pm

southbound1777 wrote:
Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 4:24 pm
Lol.. I meant the 3 openings being the fill door, the ash pit and the exit pipe. I'm with ya though..I'll definitely be asking about the top and bottom draft controls..the way I understand it coal sucks from the bottom to burn so use those controls. I'm still not sure when to open the top control knobs to allow air in or if I need to at all. Are they just there for wood burning? or is that something I'll learn to optimize the coal burn?
ty for help btw...much appreciated
Oh geez, yeah I blew that up pretty good didn't I haha. Okay cool, the draft controls on the ash door we like to call primary combustion air and the controls on the load door we like to call secondary combustion air.

It's not so much that the coal pulls draft from underneath it, it's more that the chimney is doing the pulling which is why it's important to control draft pressure with a baro if there is no heat output thermostat.

Secondary air is mainly important for burning of volatile gases that are baked out of the coal during the first stage of a burn cycle which is right after clearing ash and adding a fresh batch.


 
Odyknuck
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Location: Chardon, Ohio
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.

Post by Odyknuck » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 5:51 pm

I just recently switched over from Wood to coal and your going to love it. Mines been burning nonstop for a week . It took a bit to get it started however once running its been great. All I do now is shake it down twice in 24 hours and add a water bucket of coal to the hopper at the same time.

 
Spaceexplorer
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Stoker Coal Boiler: None
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: CoalBrookDale Much Wenlock
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Post by Spaceexplorer » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 7:26 pm

Nice looking stove

 
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Spacecadet
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Other Heating: US stove 6041 pellet

Post by Spacecadet » Mon. Oct. 22, 2018 1:33 am

one of the used stoves i looked at had bolts on the back like yours. i had asked about them and the guy said they they could be removed to install a water coil.

 
southbound1777
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Location: Columbus,NJ
Hand Fed Coal Stove: pine barren
Other Heating: oil fired boiler

Post by southbound1777 » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 7:11 pm

ahhh...awesome..I was told some of the pine barren stoves were set up to heat water but that didnt interest me being that its in my living room.. I bet thats it..about the same size as 1/2" copper tubing would be.
thanks..that one of the things that would of bugged me..I'm gonna leave the bolts then and not weld it shut in case I ever move it to my shop..good stuff.

 
southbound1777
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Post by southbound1777 » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 7:24 pm

Lightning wrote:
Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 4:35 pm
Oh geez, yeah I blew that up pretty good didn't I haha. Okay cool, the draft controls on the ash door we like to call primary combustion air and the controls on the load door we like to call secondary combustion air.

It's not so much that the coal pulls draft from underneath it, it's more that the chimney is doing the pulling which is why it's important to control draft pressure with a baro if there is no heat output thermostat.

Secondary air is mainly important for burning of volatile gases that are baked out of the coal during the first stage of a burn cycle which is right after clearing ash and adding a fresh batch.
ok great to know, I've been researching like crazy and there is a ton of info/mixed reviews all about coal and combustion air controls..lol..I'm gonna just stick here and follow yalls advice..so...
1st question..lol- what is the easiest way to start a coal fire? match light charcoal? Fire starter sticks n kindling? to be honest I like to get away from wood completely but if its not possible I'm ok with that too.

2nd question- Once I've established a good bed of coals and Ive filled the box up..do I then play with upper combustion air controls to get blue flame burning off gases?

I just lit my first fire today to cure paint before i brought it in..the coal was wet..I used matchlight to get it going but it was hard to get going I guess because it was wet..lol..but shes still going 6 hrs later with a small amount in her..lol

I've attached a pic of finished restore..I'm gonna paint the control knobs a different color I believe but other than that shes done

Attachments

coal stove.jpg
.JPG | 148.6KB | coal stove.jpg

 
southbound1777
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Post by southbound1777 » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 7:26 pm

and I'll def put the baro dampener in line. will be installed tomorrow for sure!


 
southbound1777
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Post by southbound1777 » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 7:58 pm

I may take a pic of my wifes face too..lol..pulling out our 1800 jotul wood stove and installing a 400 coal burner..hahaha. She likes the look but cant get past the fact I got it so cheap and it will heat better..I tell her to just wait and see..lol

 
LouNY
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer fireplace insert
Coal Size/Type: nut
Other Heating: oil

Post by LouNY » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 8:08 pm

Good looking stove.
I noticed that some of the previous posters wanted the mechanical dampener prior to the tee with the barometric dampener.
I find that to be counter intuitive to me, I'd prefer the manual after the barometric.
I don't like to see the barometric being sucked open any more then necessary, I'd prefer to pinch down on the mechanical a bit then fine tune with the barometric.
I'm just adverse to sucked heated air out the chimney any more then necessary.

 
southbound1777
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Post by southbound1777 » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 8:57 pm

LouNY wrote:
Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 8:08 pm
Good looking stove.
I noticed that some of the previous posters wanted the mechanical dampener prior to the tee with the barometric dampener.
I find that to be counter intuitive to me, I'd prefer the manual after the barometric.
I don't like to see the barometric being sucked open any more then necessary, I'd prefer to pinch down on the mechanical a bit then fine tune with the barometric.
I'm just adverse to sucked heated air out the chimney any more then necessary.
I'm still confused as to what to do...I've been researching that alot and its honestly a 50/50 mix on baro before or after..

 
southbound1777
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: pine barren
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Post by southbound1777 » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 9:27 pm

hell most are saying not to install a manual dampener..just a barometric. They say since my coal stove has sealed feed/ash doors I don't need it or want it since it will could stop the flow of co out the flue. I definitely get that since my wood stove has neither and is air tight as well meaning when I shut the air down the fire dies..I tried this tonight to see on my coal stove outside and when i closed all knobs for air the coal fire did burn out...I'm gonna keep researching before I install tomorrow but I think I'm leaning towards just a baro dampener..

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 10:08 pm

southbound1777 wrote:
Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 7:24 pm
1st question..lol- what is the easiest way to start a coal fire?
I like the hardwood lump charcoal because it burns really hot and ignites the coal quickly. Lay down a 2-3 inch layer of it and give it a squirt of lighter fluid. Light it, let it get burning good. Then add 2-3 inch layers of coal let each layer get burning good. Continue with that until the entire fuel bed is built up to the tip top of the fire bricks.
southbound1777 wrote:
Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 7:24 pm
2nd question- Once I've established a good bed of coals and Ive filled the box up..do I then play with upper combustion air controls to get blue flame burning off gases?
Yes, keep the secondary air controls open while building up a new fire and also keep them open after adding a fresh batch at tending. I also keep my load door cracked open a sliver to prevent puff back while a fresh batch is lighting up. To speed up the ignition of a fresh batch I also have the ash door open, but do not forget it's open.
LouNY wrote:
Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 8:08 pm
I noticed that some of the previous posters wanted the mechanical dampener prior to the tee with the barometric dampener.
I find that to be counter intuitive to me, I'd prefer the manual after the barometric.
I don't like to see the barometric being sucked open any more then necessary, I'd prefer to pinch down on the mechanical a bit then fine tune with the barometric.
I'm just adverse to sucked heated air out the chimney any more then necessary.
I agree with that line of thinking but it's not recommended. Especially if there is some kind of forced combustion air.
southbound1777 wrote:
Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 9:27 pm
hell most are saying not to install a manual dampener..just a barometric.
I would just use a baro if there is no thermostatically (is that a word? lol) controlled primary combustion air.
southbound1777 wrote:
Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 9:27 pm
They say since my coal stove has sealed feed/ash doors I don't need it or want it since it will could stop the flow of co out the flue.
I'm not sure what's going on in this statement.
southbound1777 wrote:
Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 9:27 pm
.I tried this tonight to see on my coal stove outside and when i closed all knobs for air the coal fire did burn out...
You lit a coal fire in your stove outside? Without it connected to a chimney? :what:
southbound1777 wrote:
Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 9:27 pm
.I'm gonna keep researching before I install tomorrow but I think I'm leaning towards just a baro dampener..
:yes:

 
CapeCoaler
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Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 10:31 pm

If the two bolts are shown on pic one upper right corner...
Water coil setup...
would need to run through air shroud at finish the loop...
Angled brick might cause some shake down issues...
Not designed to have the extra brick but might have helped get a longer burn...
Making up for the lost volume of the angled brick...

 
southbound1777
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Post by southbound1777 » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 10:36 pm

Lightning wrote:
Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 10:08 pm
I like the hardwood lump charcoal because it burns really hot and ignites the coal quickly. Lay down a 2-3 inch layer of it and give it a squirt of lighter fluid. Light it, let it get burning good. Then add 2-3 inch layers of coal let each layer get burning good. Continue with that until the entire fuel bed is built up to the tip top of the fire bricks.

cool..i'll try that

Yes, keep the secondary air controls open while building up a new fire and also keep them open after adding a fresh batch at tending. I also keep my load door cracked open a sliver to prevent puff back while a fresh batch is lighting up. To speed up the ignition of a fresh batch I also have the ash door open, but do not forget it's open.


I would just use a baro if there is no thermostatically (is that a word? lol) controlled primary combustion air.

ok..there is no other thermo controlled air

I'm not sure what's going on in this statement.

lol..meaning since my stove is air tight I wouldn't need to have a manual damper, I could just control it with the knobs

You lit a coal fire in your stove outside? Without it connected to a chimney? :what:
yes..lol.. I had to cure the paint and put a 6' piece of chimney on it i had lying around
Last edited by southbound1777 on Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 10:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
southbound1777
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: pine barren
Other Heating: oil fired boiler

Post by southbound1777 » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 10:38 pm

CapeCoaler wrote:
Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 10:31 pm
If the two bolts are shown on pic one upper right corner...
Water coil setup...
would need to run through air shroud at finish the loop...
Angled brick might cause some shake down issues...
Not designed to have the extra brick but might have helped get a longer burn...
Making up for the lost volume of the angled brick...
ok..ty for info..this guy that built these was known for coal burners around here..hopefully it will perform well..


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