Just bought a used 50-93

Jimbjr · Post by **Jimbjr** » Fri. Oct. 19, 2018 11:11 pm

New to this site, but have spent a few days reading a lot of submissions, great resources. My questions are how much shaking is enough? I do it twice a day about 12 hrs apart until I see small pieces of hot coal falling across the ash pan. Also I was told by Hitzer I needed a barometric damper, I bought one for a fuel oil furnace but uncertain how to set it, I have an extremely hard pulling chimney, most of the time when it’s set to 3-4 it opens a little, but when I turn it higher it hangs pretty much wide open is this normal? The stove pipe seems to stay at about 100•, and the stove at about 375-400 when at 4 and seems to run ok, but I don’t know anyone else who has one to compare to, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 3:43 am

Oh No; The "D" word........ I'll bet someone finds, and sends you a link. You'll have all the reading you can stand.

If set right, you won't need any damper for the 50-93 due to its design.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 5:40 am

Outstanding choice on the 50-93!! You're good on the shaking/tending--every 12 hrs is tried & true on the 50-93!! I use no baro nor ANY damper--like OP said, stove design does not require any--I too have a chimney that'll suck the tits off a boar-hog!!! LOL

Shikellamy · Post by **Shikellamy** » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 6:23 am

Be careful how hard and far you go when you shake it. I spent my first season doing a complete clean out 2-3 times a month because the grates jammed! :cry:

Jimbjr · Post by **Jimbjr** » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 7:27 am

Then how would I go about running it without a damper? The guy a Hitzer said without it I would burn a ton of extra coal, I have no issues trying it without it but I’m not sure how to operate it without, not that I really do right now, it’s a whole new experience for me

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 7:40 am

Just keep doin what you're doin--I've burned the same amount for 10 yrs--3 ton nut no matter the outside temps in this 200 yr old farm house--72* constant. That's with a Manual damper or without. KISS J. 5-6 yrs ago, no-one at HITZER would of told you that--I'm sure it became a legal/liability issue for them to mention the baro--( surprised they didn't give the option of a manual pipe damper--MPD)-not that there are any safety issues without. Just lawyer crap. Don't over think it J--it's one of the most user friendly stoves out here.

Jimbjr · Post by **Jimbjr** » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 7:56 am

Funny, the reason I bought it is to heat a 200 year old farm house. I live in upstate ny and I’m hoping 3 ton works for me, should I be using the slides in the clean out door? So hard to find anyone around here to discuss it with

warminmn · Post by **warminmn** » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 9:37 am

There is a devise called a manometer. Not real expensive and real easy to install. It tells you how much draft you actually have instead of guessing at it. A nice accessory even if you never add a damper. It can come in handy if you lose draft too as you dont have to guess at what is wrong. That can happen in warmer weather.

Most of what Ive seen posted on here thru the years about your stove was if they did add a damper it was a manual pipe damper, like used on a wood stove.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 4:32 pm

J, once the COLD sets in I crack my ash door vents just a sliver--play with it my friend, you'll find it's sweet spot.

Jimbjr wrote: ↑
Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 7:56 am
Funny, the reason I bought it is to heat a 200 year old farm house. I live in upstate ny and I’m hoping 3 ton works for me, should I be using the slides in the clean out door? So hard to find anyone around here to discuss it with

Scottaw · Post by **Scottaw** » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 8:25 am

I’ve been running mine for 5-6 years.

I have a baro damper. I set it on high(?) and it only opens in screaming wind.

I open my ash pan vents just a tiny bit when it’s really cold out. About a half circle.

I shake twice a day. When you shake go until you hear a crunch of solid coal, then I usually give a few more jiggles. Once the ashes aren’t flowing, you should see a nice even glow down from the grates.
And once a week or so, I open the top door and scrape the edges. You’ll see ash build up there and once it’s all clear again, lots more heat. I’ll let it build up for warm times and clean every day when it’s sub zero.

Like everyone said, it’s very forgiving and easy to run stove. Enjoy!

DENNIS BAUER · Post by **DENNIS BAUER** » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 4:21 pm

warminmn wrote: ↑
Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 9:37 am
There is a devise called a manometer. Not real expensive and real easy to install. It tells you how much draft you actually have instead of guessing at it. A nice accessory even if you never add a damper. It can come in handy if you lose draft too as you dont have to guess at what is wrong. That can happen in warmer weather.

Most of what Ive seen posted on here thru the years about your stove was if they did add a damper it was a manual pipe damper, like used on a wood stove.

I have a manometer on my Hitzer, and love it. Now mine was already there due to having the Stoker before but i'm glad i hooked it up. Nice to have when the weather is warm and you're trying to run the stove a low as possible.

I also run the stove with a MPD. If you have any idea's of burning Wood like I do in the shoulder months you CAN NOT run a BPD.

DENNIS BAUER · Post by **DENNIS BAUER** » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 4:23 pm

Shikellamy wrote: ↑
Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 6:23 am
Be careful how hard and far you go when you shake it. I spent my first season doing a complete clean out 2-3 times a month because the grates jammed!

I feel like I shake my stove down hard if not violently. I found if I don't after a week of hard running it starts to Ash up. If I over due it I never have an ash issue. And if my grates get stuck i just let it burn over night or through out the day. Always cleared it self by next tending.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 5:05 pm

A BIG plus 1 on that D!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jimbjr · Post by **Jimbjr** » Sat. Oct. 27, 2018 10:28 pm

Not really sure what you mean by open the top and scrape the ash down? Where does the ash build up? I thought the ash was under the coal, I mean I see some on top after I shake the stove but where do I scrape it?

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Sat. Oct. 27, 2018 11:36 pm

Hi Jimbjr,

Let me explain....... After a few days or so of shaking, and adding coal, ash will build up on the grate frame, and work it's way up to the top of the coal bed. Looking through the front door, the bed of coals will become kind of dark along the edges. For the 50-93, it would be the left & right sides. Almost like the sides of the firebox are closing in. You'll want to agitate that ash by running a poker down each side of the firebox, fluffing up the coal bed, causing the ash to drop. Then shake it through the grates. Now you will have a full bed of glowing coals again. And will notice a big difference in heat output. That is; until the ash builds again. Then you poke again..