Options for my stove pipe clearance??
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So with how low my basement ceiling is I only have about 7 inches from old beams of my first floor to the stove pipe on my stove it's a gibralter lcc with 8inch stove pipe I think it's around 120k btu. What are my options here will a heat shield work what's the best material to use.. looks are not important it's it an old 5ft dirt floor basement. Also could I potientionally buy or make a double heat shield for better results.. I'll try to attach a picture.
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- oliver power
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Wrap the pipe with insulation. Use double heat shield. Take a piece of rectangular duct work, and run it from the floor up, and over the top of stove pipe. Leave a gap at the bottom for cooler air to enter. Hang a cheap aluminum basting pan over the stove pipe. Put a little water in it. Lots of options..........
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I would just buy a couple of glass electric fence insulators which can be still bought at farm supply centers, then use a piece of steel roofing and put long screws through the tin, through the glass insulators, and then into the beams. That would allow for a 1 inch or so stand-off from the wooden beams and allow air to flow all around the chimney pipe. You would be amazed at how cool it is on the other side.
But that is just how I would do it...as others have said, a lot of options.
But that is just how I would do it...as others have said, a lot of options.
- freetown fred
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Orrrrrrr, a piece of crete board (2'X4')??? with fence insulators.
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Thanks guys I didnt think about the fence insulators that's a good idea my father has leftover tin metal from his pole barn to so as long as that would suffeicentlly block the heat it shouldn't be much of a project
- Lightning
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I would just hang some tin over it, keep air spaces above and below. Check it frequently to see if anything is getting hot until you are confident it's safe.
- Rob R.
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x2. I have done this and it works very well. As Fred mentioned, some cement board would work well also.NoSmoke wrote: ↑Mon. Oct. 15, 2018 7:41 amI would just buy a couple of glass electric fence insulators which can be still bought at farm supply centers, then use a piece of steel roofing and put long screws through the tin, through the glass insulators, and then into the beams. That would allow for a 1 inch or so stand-off from the wooden beams and allow air to flow all around the chimney pipe. You would be amazed at how cool it is on the other side.
But that is just how I would do it...as others have said, a lot of options.
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I may be going overboard but I have the sheet metal would it be worth while to fasten two together with 1/2 dia pipe that are 1\2 long and run a bolt with nut and washers to make a double shield with 1\2 inch space between them and and 1" space from the beams would doubling the sheets make a noticeable gain in heat shielding or is there something I'm missing in the logic. I may be being extra cautious but the 6 inch or so gap from extremely hot stove pipe to 100 year old dried hemlock beams has me pretty nervous
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Also on not the metal roofing/ siding I have is painted would that be an issue as in would the paint be considered combustible
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Double heat shield is better...
Silver or bare metal towards stove...
Dark colors black, red, green will absorb heat and transfer to next layer...
If you can make it 12-24 inches wider than the stove all the way around..
Radiant and convective heat will dry those beans out fast...
How far is the top of stove to those beams?...
Silver or bare metal towards stove...
Dark colors black, red, green will absorb heat and transfer to next layer...
If you can make it 12-24 inches wider than the stove all the way around..
Radiant and convective heat will dry those beans out fast...
How far is the top of stove to those beams?...
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It's about 7 inch from that beam
- freetown fred
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Then---any of the above suggestions will work well---KISS C
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The actual stove not the pipe...
if it is just a 5 foot dirt floor basement...
Then the top of the stove might be only 30 inches to the beam...
And you will nee a heat shield to protect the beams from the stove too...
Continuous heat soaking from the stove will lower the combustion point of the beams...
if it is just a 5 foot dirt floor basement...
Then the top of the stove might be only 30 inches to the beam...
And you will nee a heat shield to protect the beams from the stove too...
Continuous heat soaking from the stove will lower the combustion point of the beams...
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Best stuff I've used is the corregated galvanized steel sheeting from Home depot its 12 bucks for an 8 foot long by 2ftish wide piece and it reflects heat nicely... my set up is the wall a 1.25 in air gap and the silver corrugated steel... The metal is cold to the touch while pipe is pretty near 200 degrees...
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Hey thanks for the picture of one in use... and I checked the stove to beam is 34 inch but while I'm making it I had planned to make it long enough to cover everything