So I bought a hitzer model 55 ul stove used.

 
Matt in ct
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer model 55ul

Post by Matt in ct » Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 3:39 pm

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I did a lot of research on this site also I bought it knowing I would have to replace the firebrick. which I studied how to do it on this forum. now I have completed the replacement job, I actually had to cut some bricks for a perfect fit. so now that I have that part done I'm looking for advise of how I should hook it up.
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 3:45 pm

Welcome.

That is a very nice looking stove, and you did a nice job on the firebrick.

The Hitzer website should have a manual for this stove, which will have the recommended clearances for the stove and flue pipe. Use black stove pipe the same diameter as the stove outlet all the way to the chimney. No dampers are needed in the pipe.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 7:27 pm

Matt, where are you located in CT?

 
Matt in ct
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer model 55ul

Post by Matt in ct » Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 7:52 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 3:45 pm
Welcome.

That is a very nice looking stove, and you did a nice job on the firebrick.

The Hitzer website should have a manual for this stove, which will have the recommended clearances for the stove and flue pipe. Use black stove pipe the same diameter as the stove outlet all the way to the chimney. No dampers are needed in the pipe.
Thanks

 
Matt in ct
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer model 55ul

Post by Matt in ct » Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 7:52 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 7:27 pm
Matt, where are you located in CT?
I am located in Enfield.

 
Matt in ct
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Post by Matt in ct » Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 8:01 pm

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Should I use a draft regulator, I see a lot of people do, however the guy I bought the stove from didn't have 1 hooked up to it, I've never burned coal but I've burned wood my whole life.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 8:16 pm

Your Hitzer has an automatic control on the inlet damper. It does not need a barometric damper.


 
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Post by warminmn » Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 8:57 pm

There "might" be a restrictor plate inside the air inlet on the back side. Restrictor might be the wrong name. Hitzer had to put them on for legal reasons. If your stove doesnt run right you might have to remove it, or not.

If your gonna burn wood in it too, you might want a manual pipe damper. You can always leave it wide open.

 
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Post by rberq » Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 9:43 pm

Matt in ct wrote:
Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 8:01 pm
Should I use a draft regulator ...?
Google "hitzer 55 manual" and you can download it in PDF format.
Here's a direct quote from the manual: A draft of more than -.06 (kPa) will waste some of your heat by causing it to be drawn up the chimney too quickly. The higher the draft goes the more heat that is wasted up the chimney. A very strong overdraft can also cause the stove to over fire. Over firing can cause the stove to develop extremely high temperatures resulting in possible damage to the stove or a fire. Draft should never exceed -.08 (kPa). Over drafting can be controlled by installing a damper in the stovepipe. This damper can be a barometric or manual damper.
I recommend the Field Controls barometric damper that you have pictured. It automatically instantly adapts to outside air temperature and wind speed/gusts that affect draft, without having to be manually adjusted every time conditions change.

Did I see $300 asking price on the advertisement? That's a wicked good buy!

 
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Post by Matt in ct » Mon. Oct. 22, 2018 8:14 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Sat. Sep. 29, 2018 8:16 pm
Your Hitzer has an automatic control on the inlet damper. It does not need a barometric damper.
Thank you, I just hooked it up and last night had my first wood fire and actually had a couple of big " puffs" when the dial heat regulator opened the draft, I was told by the seller to leave the door draft open 2 turns, I had it open more, idk if that was the cause or not, I've also given thought to the magnet in the "snap action damper" as hitzer calls it, I'm not sure if adjusting it to grab more or less ? Would help. It's set almost exactly in the middle.
I would be very grateful for any advice.

 
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Post by warminmn » Mon. Oct. 22, 2018 8:50 pm

A paper clip on the inlet door will stop it from going completely closed. Maybe 2 of them in case one falls off.

If your burning wood you can have the door spinner open quite a ways. And dont close that top inside door until its burning well. Some here dont ever use that door but my Dad did and it barely used wood that way, much more efficient. Its all trial and error though and what works for you may not work for others.

 
Matt in ct
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Post by Matt in ct » Mon. Oct. 22, 2018 9:48 pm

warminmn wrote:
Mon. Oct. 22, 2018 8:50 pm
A paper clip on the inlet door will stop it from going completely closed. Maybe 2 of them in case one falls off.

If your burning wood you can have the door spinner open quite a ways. And dont close that top inside door until its burning well. Some here dont ever use that door but my Dad did and it barely used wood that way, much more efficient. Its all trial and error though and what works for you may not work for others.
Thanks, I do think I was trying to close the down draft plate , I think the paper clip idea is viable , i also know coal will burn tottaly different, I'm just trying to work out the kinks to this new set up, i think the dial heat regulator and snap action damper are a little too aggressive for wood. Tottaly shuts the air off.

Thanks for your reply.

 
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Post by Matt in ct » Mon. Oct. 22, 2018 9:53 pm

I was trying to say I was closing the draft plate too soon, and after you get a lot of wood coals going, it has not happened
again I know coal will be different
I definitely want to get the puffing thing sorted out before putting coal in to it.

 
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Post by warminmn » Mon. Oct. 22, 2018 10:03 pm

When you close that inside door it cant vent as well and if the wood isnt burning real well or is smoky burning its gonna puff. Dry cured wood wont be as fussy. There are other ways to keep the intake door cracked but i just told what we did.

When Dad was closing that door he was burning a pickup load of burr oak with no bark and it had been a standing dead tree for years. kind of a perfect situation. He heated his home the whole 28 days of February on a single pickup load of that stuff which I thought was amazing and he kept his house hot. Your results may vary.

I already said it but some leave that inside door open the whole time so you'll just have to experiment. No 2 situations are exactly the same.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 6:15 am

These stoves are not good wood burners. Use small & dry pieces of wood (or charcoal) to start your coal fire.


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